[Totally Wild]

Hello TW200 fans. My bike was warming up nicely, then died due to a rough clutch engagement. Now the bike is totally dead. No lights, panel lights or electrical operation at all. The battery tests OK, as does the 20 amp fuse. I suspect a fault in the ignition/key assembly, or a relay. Does anybody have experience or advice with this? I have yet to download a service manual. Thanks all for your help. TW!



UPDATE: Thanks for all the helpful tips and hints. Rockiedog 2 was most helpful with troubleshooting tips, and my problem was indeed a bad battery. I was not aware that a battery would test positive, but fail under load. So to confirm it, I did indeed jump start the bike from a deep cell battery used for my canoe. It ran great. I ordered up a new battery ($42.00 after shipping), installed after electrolyte and charging. Now my wife's TW is ready to tear it up again. Oh, and we have just received 3 days of storms here in the Sierra Nevada, so it looks like we will be having a great bunch of fun soon. Thanks again for all the help from the forum members who take time out to be of help! Ride On!

 

[ATXthumper]

if you turn the key to on, have the kill switch set to on and kick it does it get spark?

 

[Brad Lamar]

If the bike is still in gear it will not turn over with the kick stand down.

 

[Totally Wild]

if you turn the key to on, have the kill switch set to on and kick it does it get spark?

 

[Totally Wild]

if you turn the key to on, have the kill switch set to on and kick it does it get spark?

Thanks for the tip. This bike does not have a kick starter.

 

[Totally Wild]

If the bike is still in gear it will not turn over with the kick stand down.



Thanks, but the bike is not in gear. Also, the instrument panel would come on normally whether in gear or not.

 

[ATXthumper]

ah, i shoulda known it was an '02 judging by yer name..how many miles does it have? was it stored outside? (rust/corrosion an issue?)

 

[ATXthumper]

im not sure that a bad relay would affect ALL electrical components..the two relays are in the starting circuit and seperate from the lighting circuit as far as i know.



since yamaha decided to cut the kickstarter try and bump start it. put it in 2nd, go jogging and dump the clutch

wear a helmet

it only takes about ten feet to get my bike started when my battery dies.

 

[srs713]

Now the bike is totally dead. No lights, panel lights or electrical operation at all. The battery tests OK, as does the 20 amp fuse. I suspect a fault in the ignition/key assembly, or a relay.

Follow the wires from the key switch down. Must be a break or loose connector somewhere! Only the key switch would kill everything with the battery & fuse being good.



As for the fuse. The stock bike has a 2 fuse holder under the right panel. One is the fuse in use, the other is a spare. You are sure the one in use is good?

 

[Totally Wild]

Good day. This bike has 3200 miles and has always been stored in a garage. It is in excellent shape, short of being dead. I would try bump starting, except I'm recovering from a broken leg and am unable to push the bike back uphill if it didn't start. So... I'm still troubleshooting this problem.

 

[rockiedog2]

Good day. This bike has 3200 miles and has always been stored in a garage. It is in excellent shape, short of being dead. I would try bump starting, except I'm recovering from a broken leg and am unable to push the bike back uphill if it didn't start. So... I'm still troubleshooting this problem.

Did you check the battery ground when you tested the battery? Also did you test the battery with a load on it? If everything is dead and the fuses and battery are good, I usually start checking grounds next

 

[rockiedog2]

Did you check the battery ground when you tested the battery? Also did you test the battery with a load on it? If everything is dead and the fuses and battery are good, I usually start checking grounds next

Another thought. Jump it off with your lawnmower or car. If it starts then that probably eliminates the connections, relays, grounds etc.

 

[Totally Wild]

I did in fact try starting the bike while it was plugged into a battery charger (before testing the voltage of the battery), and the symptoms on the bike stayed the same. No lights, panel lights or other sounds or noises. I did notice that the battery charger indicator light would turn from "green" indicating a full charge to "red" indicating not charging or charged when I turned the ignition key to the on position. I thought this might indicate a short or fault condition. What do you think?

 

[rockiedog2]

I did in fact try starting the bike while it was plugged into a battery charger (before testing the voltage of the battery), and the symptoms on the bike stayed the same. No lights, panel lights or other sounds or noises. I did notice that the battery charger indicator light would turn from "green" indicating a full charge to "red" indicating not charging or charged when I turned the ignition key to the on position. I thought this might indicate a short or fault condition. What do you think?

hmmm...I'm thinking the battery charger indications throw another unknown into the problem. Still believe I would try jumping it off. There's a high probability the battery is your problem. As you probably know the battery can test ok(show 12V) even tho it's not; unless you test it with a load on it. The NAPA store here has one of those type testers they will test a batt for free with. A batt can also show fully charged but still be faulty. Maybe somebody else here with more electrical technical knowledge can help with those batt charger indications.

I'm sticking with positively eliminating the battery before starting to dig into the wiring. If it won't jump off or power up I would disconnect the cables from the batt and hook the jumper cables to those cables only...if it works then I would say the batt is bad maybe shorted

Also be sure the batt connections are good and the batt ground is good wherever it grounds on a Tdub

Joe

 

[qwerty]

I'm thinking a plug somewhere came unplugged, probably one of the plugs involved in the latest repair.