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Bike is perfect condition and only 337 miles.



Only down side is bone stock, nice because I can do what I need I guess.



1. Still in Break in Period? How careful do I need to be up to 1000 miles?



2. Where do you keep registration, insurance info. Can someone send me a pic from under their seat. Behind my battery it is just open down to the tire (is that normal). I guess since seat is bolted on not the best place anyways. I saw some tubes on here, but does anyone have or seen a locking tube. I guess I am paranoid about people going through my stuff



3. I want to drive this to work also. I know I need a nice rack, but would also like an enclosed case (waterproof with lock) that is large enough for my paperwork etc. I really like the hard cases, but between the rack and case from the ones I saw Im gonna be at $500+. Anyone find a nice solution that is less costly?



4. Any suggestions for nice, larger footpegs?



5. I see a lot of people like the walmart seat cover (guess the stock is uncomfortable?) and the Jimbo shield?



6. What type of gas do you run? 87 or better to go premium?



Any other thoughts, upgrades, suggestions. Thanks for your time!!!
 

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This bike has a low compression engine and runs on regular gas. Premium is a waste of money and high octane actually has less power, worse mileage, and the myth that it is "better", (except for a high compression engine to reduce "pre ignition"} is not accurate. There are innumerable references to this all over the internet if you look for it. The only additive that may be worth it, is to put Berryman's B12 Chemtool or Seafoam (3X more expensive) or Chevron, 1 oz/gal of fuel every 3 or 4 tankfuls into the gas if you don't use it much, to keep the carb clean.
 

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Bike is perfect condition and only 337 miles.



Only down side is bone stock, nice because I can do what I need I guess.



1. Still in Break in Period? How careful do I need to be up to 1000 miles?


Change the oil immediately. The oil in it is probably old. If it was my bike, I'd use a dino base stock motorcycle oil in 10W-40 that is marked "JASO MA" and is not marked "fuel saving", "energy conserving", or "low polluting". I'd look for "safe for wet clutches" on the bottle.



2. Where do you keep registration, insurance info. Can someone send me a pic from under their seat. Behind my battery it is just open down to the tire (is that normal). I guess since seat is bolted on not the best place anyways. I saw some tubes on here, but does anyone have or seen a locking tube. I guess I am paranoid about people going through my stuff


In my wallet behind my driver license.



3. I want to drive this to work also. I know I need a nice rack, but would also like an enclosed case (waterproof with lock) that is large enough for my paperwork etc. I really like the hard cases, but between the rack and case from the ones I saw Im gonna be at $500+. Anyone find a nice solution that is less costly?


Rubbermaid has plastic boxes that can be padlocked. Drill the base to fit on the stock cargo pad, put a piece of waterproof plywood between the pad and box and inside the box to distribute load, and use longer bolts to hold the box down. Under $25 total cost, including locks.







4. Any suggestions for nice, larger footpegs?
Obviously, you haven't looked very hard for this info.
D2moto



5. I see a lot of people like the walmart seat cover (guess the stock is uncomfortable?) and the Jimbo shield?
Have you ever heard of a "search function"?



6. What type of gas do you run? 87 or better to go premium?
(R+M)/2 = 87, without ethanol.



Any other thoughts, upgrades, suggestions. Thanks for your time!!!
Peter Pan Crunchy is the best peanut butter.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Change the oil immediately. The oil in it is probably old. If it was my bike, I'd use a dino base stock motorcycle oil in 10W-40 that is marked "JASO MA" and is not marked "fuel saving", "energy conserving", or "low polluting". I'd look for "safe for wet clutches" on the bottle.







In my wallet behind my driver license.







Rubbermaid has plastic boxes that can be padlocked. Drill the base to fit on the stock cargo pad, put a piece of waterproof plywood between the pad and box and inside the box to distribute load, and use longer bolts to hold the box down. Under $25 total cost, including locks.









Obviously, you haven't looked very hard for this info.
D2moto





Have you ever heard of a "search function"?





(R+M)/2 = 87, without ethanol.





Peter Pan Crunchy is the best peanut butter.




Big Dummy

Thanks so much for taking the time to respond to each of my issue, be they silly or not, guess I was thinking out loud about my plans on part of this. Anyways, I do appreciate your responses.
 

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I keep my papers in a plastic bag under the rubber strap that holds the tool kit... You find it under the right side panel. OMM.
 

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Big Dummy

Thanks so much for taking the time to respond to each of my issue, be they silly or not, guess I was thinking out loud about my plans on part of this. Anyways, I do appreciate your responses.




Welcome to the fold.



If it was my bike, first mod should be a decent chain. The stock one is junk and won't last long. I prefer o-ring chains, but our performance-loving brethren post up that o-rings draw so much power the bike won't run worth a crap. Maybe that's true, if the stock chain is perfectly lubed and new. After about 3000 miles when the stock chain and sprockets are half worn out, the rollers are dry, and the chain starts kinking, I expect the o-ring chain is far more efficient than the stock chain. Besides, I've had Tdub up to 84mph twice with an o-ring chain--how fast do you really need to go?



Second mod for me would be to jet the carb properly. Like all carbed bikes sold in the U. S. of A. over the last 30 years, TWs are jetted lean to appease EPA mandates. Unless you live and ride at altitudes over 5000 feet most of the time, your jetting is off.



Those are the only two critical mods that really affect longevity and operational characteristics.



Everything else is simple personal preferences.



For instance, lots of people like the Jimbo Shield because it takes the windblast off their chest. I can't stand windshields on dualsport bikes because they limit how far one can shift his weight forward when necessary. Also, I've found that sliding my butt fore and aft on the seat pretty much allows balancing the force of the wind with the effect of gravity on my upper body, and it is not necessary to lean on my wrists or hang on with a death grip. 95% of the time I can simply rest my palms on the grips and relax, even on dirt roads, just by adjusting my butt position. I also dislike the increased windblast on my head most shields cause, the buffeting gives me a headache. Don't know about the Jimbo shield, but that blast and buffeting has to go somewhere. I'm so strongly against windshields that my street bikes don't have them, and I've done many 500-1000 mile days down the interstate. If you like small windshields, the Jimbo Shield is a quality product, the maker has an excellent reputation, and the price is certainly right. Arguably the best value on the market for the TW. Personal preference.



Same goes for the bigger footpegs. I've tried them, took them off. Never had a problem with the stock pegs. If I wanted running boards, I'd buy a Harley. Other people swear they are better. Personal preference.



I like the improved comfort of the Walmart Sterns seat cover. In fact, I have 2 on Tdub for twice the goodness. Other people can't stand them and have thrown them away. Personal preference.



Fix the chain and jetting issues first, then go from there.
 
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