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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I did it. Found a complete rear wheel assembly for a TW200 on eBay for $140 plus $25 shipping. Should be here by Thursday next week. Coming from Arizona. It is off a 1987 TW200 and my bike is a 2013 so I HOPE it fits. From what I've read, the rear wheel assembly is compatable for all years TW200. If anybody knows different, let me know please.

Now, I gotta start looking up HOW to do the mod. I'm sure that there are old threads. I think TW Brian did one this way. Maybe he can post links? Hey buddy? How's that motor I snagged for ya doing? Ha!

The seller is including a for-crap tire and the rim is pretty beat up. At least one spoke is missing. However, the thing as a near new 51 tooth rear sprocket the dust seals and bearings. No idea what the bearings are like, but at least it has some.

Here's the link to the sale;
eBay TW200 rear wheel assembly 1987

I'm negotiating the rear brake parts in exchange for the spokes, rim and tire. Hoping he'll throw in the axle and cams too.
 

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It will fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks Brian! For now if you could just let me know where you got your trailer wheel, I'll work on getting that in.
Also hoping Mike, your buddy, still is interested in doing the machine/welding work.

EDIT;
Found where you posted the wheel you bought here;
12X4 4-Lug on 4" White Spoke Trailer Wheel (recstuff.com)

If your buddy is still doing the machine work, perhaps I should drop ship to his address for the rework on the rim?
 

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Hi Jerry,

Sorry for the delay in responding. I will answer your immediate questions upfront:

I believe that Mike and/or his son are still doing these mods. I will PM you Mike's contact information shortly.

Here is the wheel that I used for my most recent trailer wheel build. It is the cheapest that I could find and I am very happy with it. It is a zero offset 12" wheel with 4 lugs on 4" centers. I would suggest that you order yours with the valve stem of your choice already installed as that will be one less thing for you to deal with. Unless you are going to do the wheel notching yourself, I would also suggest that you just have the wheel shipped directly to Mike, or whoever will be doing the hub mods, to avoid unnecessary shipping charges and delays.


Following is the link to the most comprehensive thread on this mod. It is a long thread, but the first couple of pages describe how and why a stock hub is modified so I won't repeat all of that here.


Here is the stock hub and un-notched trailer wheel.

210495


My first trailer wheel was built using pressed in lugs studs. There is nothing wrong with this approach unless you would need to replace one of these studs at some time in the future. I believe that all subsequent trailer wheels have been built using tapped holes and lug bolts. Here are some pics of the modified hub and wheel.

210496


This picture illustrates why it is necessary to notch the wheel in order for the sprocket mounting flange to fit through the center hole of the trailer wheel.

210497


I hope this helps.

Let me know if you have any questions or need additional information,

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Brian!
I emailed Mike. I asked if I could also drop ship the eBay part and the wheel direct to save shipping. Also, if it is possible to just set up a time to meet him and hang out while he does the job. Perhaps we could meet up and watch together?

I have a couple thoughts about the design I messaged you but wanted to add to the thread for others to input;

Why not just weld the wheel to the wheel flange instead of butchering the rim to fit over the sprocket flange? I understand that having multiple rim/tire combos would be nice, but thinking practically, I probably won't do that. I also understand it would take a little more effort to mount the tire to a rim that has the hub/axle assembly fixed, but shouldn't a tire shop still be able to mount that?
Besides keeping the wheel integrity, the machinist would be able to ensure a true wheel alignment as well.

Also, how about fixing the brake flange to the wheel flange instead of a separate flange? A spacer or something that would bolt though perhaps. This would save welding and keep the brake drum true to the wheel alignment.

I don't want to make more work for Mike, just thinking out loud how to minimize the design and keep wheel and brake integrity true to the axle and each other.
 
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Hey Jerry,

You've got some good suggestions, here are my thoughts:

"Why not just weld the wheel to the wheel flange instead of butchering the rim to fit over the sprocket flange? I understand that having multiple rim/tire combos would be nice, but thinking practically, I probably won't do that. I also understand it would take a little more effort to mount the tire to a rim that has the hub/axle assembly fixed, but shouldn't a tire shop still be able to mount that?
Besides keeping the wheel integrity, the machinist would be able to ensure a true wheel alignment as well."


What you suggest is somewhat similar to how Little Big Foot did his trailer wheel. I tried to minimize the number of parts that needed to be fabricated and to simplify the modifications to both the wheel and the stock hub. I also wanted a hub that could be handled at any run of the mill gas station and not only at a motorcycle specific shop.

"Also, how about fixing the brake flange to the wheel flange instead of a separate flange? A spacer or something that would bolt though perhaps. This would save welding and keep the brake drum true to the wheel alignment."

Again, this would require additional fabrication. Your idea for using a custom spacer to mount the brake to has been used by a couple of guys who have added a rear disc brake to their bikes.

Bottom line, this approach was the best that I could come up with 5 or 6 years ago!

(However, I am pretty far along with a next generation concept for a trailer wheel hub design that does not require a stock donor hub or any modifications to the trailer wheel. Already have a 3D printed prototype in hand, and just need a few changes made to the CAD drawings and they will be ready to send out for quotes. With a little luck, it should be somewhat lighter in weight and cost competitive with the current approach)
 

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I worked for a custom wheel shop in Santee decades ago and no kidding I bet I welded 100,000 of those rims together...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Again thanks Brian. Heard back from Mike and he's on board for doing this. I'll ship him the hub once I receive the rear wheel from eBay and break it down. He does the machine work in San Jose and I'll drop ship the rim to that address as well. Then he takes to parts to Roseville for welding at his son's shop. I go to Roseville weekly so I'll save some shipping costs I suppose, although I'm just as likely to just have Mike benefit from that when I pay him. He's in Portland until next week, so that works too since I won't get the wheel any time before then anyway.

I have a question I asked in a PM, but might as well just post here;
You mentioned you prefer your Duro Power Grip V2 in 26x9Rx12 over past tires. However, I'm having trouble finding a source. Perhaps they are discontinued. Can you or anyone recommend a source and if you have changed up your top choice or indeed the V2 is no longer available, let me know what you now prefer?

One more question; I found the link you posted about bearings on Amazon sold in a box of 10. Did you use a seal as well or just the bearings?
 

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I have a question. Are you also planning on putting on a larger sprocket. 60 to 65 tooth? I am planning on mounting a 24x8 - 12 in a similar tread pattern. Should be about 25" diameter after installing on a 4"x12" rim.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Looks like Amazon sells them also one at a time.


This has the correct numbers for a V2 DI2039
I think you're right.
I was looking at this listing. Stare and compare, nearly identical except for that number difference;
Duro NOT V2

They are different sellers but are using the same image. Do I feel lucky? Well, do I punk? Ha!

It has one review where the buyer points out the image is not the V2 version but that the V2 is what he got. Lighter and smaller than the original version. He wasn't happy about it, but I can see why Brian likes it. Lighter is better for our TW200's.

Pulled the trigger, figure I may not get the chance to get it later.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have a question. Are you also planning on putting on a larger sprocket. 60 to 65 tooth? I am planning on mounting a 24x8 - 12 in a similar tread pattern. Should be about 25" diameter after installing on a 4"x12" rim.
What is the stock sprocket tooth count, 50 tooth? I think so. My eBay wheel comes with an after market sprocket that looks larger than that. I count 51 teeth on it, but who knows for sure. Ha!
But to answer your question; no, not planning on it. I am more willing to work the clutch to gain low speed functionality than to give up top speed with a gear change.
The deciding factor will be in the field and likely due to excessive traction or overall tire diameter. I'll probably do speed tests for both stock and modified. This is a good reason to keep my stock set up unmolested; I can compare effects of changes as well as versatility between on and off road applications.
 

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"One more question; I found the link you posted about bearings on Amazon sold in a box of 10. Did you use a seal as well or just the bearings?"

On both of my trailer wheels, I have just continued to use the existing seals and bearings that were on the donor hubs.

The 10 pack of bearings was purchased because I needed a sealed bearing for PlacerLode's output shaft extension and I could get 10 of them for not much more what one would cost me at the NAPA store. Since then, I came to find out that I will be able to use these same bearings on my next generation hub, but will then need to source the needed seals.
 

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Will it fit a stock rear swing arm?

Where are you planning on riding? Lots of dirt roads between placerville and Tahoe, north and south. Have run a vast amount of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I think I'm going to customize my wheel with a modular style trailer wheel instead of the spoke style. Amazon has one from the same vendor that Brian got his wagon wheel style. Besides, he told me he prefers the modular look and I want to make him envious of my assembly. Ha!
Here's the link;

Modular Trailer Wheel

And a photo too!
210504
 

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Hey Jerry,

If you do end up getting the complete wheel and breaking it down, I suggest that you take the extra time to remove and save the spokes and nipples. Yamaha only sells spokes by the complete set for about $40.00, and most guys usually only need one or two. It is nice to be able help someone out when they just need to replace a couple of spokes.

Brian

I think I'm going to customize my wheel with a modular style trailer wheel instead of the spoke style. Amazon has one from the same vendor that Brian got his wagon wheel style. Besides, he told me he prefers the modular look and I want to make him envious of my assembly. Ha!
Here's the link;

Modular Trailer Wheel

And a photo too!
View attachment 210504
That's a good deal, and I am officially jealous!
 
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