Gotta project; rear wheel trailer tire mod
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The bearings I bought off Amazon as a 3 bearing set that comes with 2 seals. Why 2 seals, I don't know. Only one is employed. First, I think these bearings are for crap. Compared to the ones I took out, 2 out of 3 of the older bearings feel much, MUCH smoother than these new ones. I removed one of the seals on each of the new bearings and repacked them with Bel-Ray waterproof grease. There was almost zero grease in these things and what grease there was, is clear. Never seen water-clear bearing grease before. Fresh packed, they still feel rough. If I wasn't so lazy, I'd send them back, but as it is, I'm lazy, so I'll likely end up installing them. I'm sure they'll work and with fresh waterproof grease tightly packed, should last as long as I'll ever need. It's just the principle.
Here's a link to the bearings I bought so you all won't make the same mistake I did;
Well, imagine that; the link on Amazon is no longer there. Huh... can't even return now. But, no matter, these are Boss Bearing branded with either blue or black seals.
Here's a link to the bearings I bought so you all won't make the same mistake I did;
Well, imagine that; the link on Amazon is no longer there. Huh... can't even return now. But, no matter, these are Boss Bearing branded with either blue or black seals.
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I also want to update that I mailed the hub and drop shipped the wheel to Mike, TW-Brian's friend and neighbor. Back in 2017 when Brian had this work done, Mike charged $175. I want to pass along the price has increased to $225. Shipping was $10.28. The hub weighs 5 pounds with packing.
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I know you are buried in snow, so what else you gonna do? Ha! Nothing like working on a bike in the garage in winter.Looks like a grippy dragster tire. Your thread is motivating me to purchase and gather all the stuff needed for my two trailer rim mods.
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Sounds like you are moving quick on your mod. That's a good thing. Your tire is massive compared to mine.
My atv tire arrived today. Bearings yesterday. Waiting on the trailer rim to arrive. Then get the lug bolts. Don't know if they are cone type or rounded type.
I use Duplicolor etching primer as a base. It sticks to everything. I think Lowe's sells it and Napa auto.
![20210107_225544.jpg]()
My atv tire arrived today. Bearings yesterday. Waiting on the trailer rim to arrive. Then get the lug bolts. Don't know if they are cone type or rounded type.
I use Duplicolor etching primer as a base. It sticks to everything. I think Lowe's sells it and Napa auto.
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What does the spacer flange do?Mine either didn’t have one or it went missing by previous owner.
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Hopefully a more rounded profile will occur once Duro2 is installed and inflated. I but briefly sampled TW-Brian’s Duro2 on the street and was impressed, more rounded than the original Duro I was running at the time.
Nay sayers abound preaching mayhem with running ATV tires on the street but I’ve had no issues running mine over Sierra passes like Carson, Ebbets, Monitor & Sonora just as fast as lil’ Betty Boop will go leaned into corners just as brave as I will go...You’ll have fun once you get used to it. Ten to fifteen degree heat wave is coming next Friday, maybe you can get out and rip up some rotten snow.
Nay sayers abound preaching mayhem with running ATV tires on the street but I’ve had no issues running mine over Sierra passes like Carson, Ebbets, Monitor & Sonora just as fast as lil’ Betty Boop will go leaned into corners just as brave as I will go...You’ll have fun once you get used to it. Ten to fifteen degree heat wave is coming next Friday, maybe you can get out and rip up some rotten snow.
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That spacer flange keeps the tube centered so that the axle can slide in. Notice it's much smaller diameter than the inside of the hub. If it's just put in there without that spacer, it would fall to the bottom and you would play hell trying to get it lined up so the axle could slide all the way across to the other bearing and out.
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Ha! Great photos. I showed my wife because she says I'm nuts doing this with THAT tire. Ha!
So, did you have trouble convincing anyone to mount that tire to the wheel?
Also, lug bolts. I've read that VW lug bolts are the ticket. Size 14mm 1.5 thread pitch. VW lug bolts are shown as ball seat. I'm not sure, but I think the wheel/rim is cone seat. I got a message in to Recstuff.com where the trailer wheels are sourced but have not heard back yet.
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Tomorrow I start disassembling the rear wheel and swingarm from the bike. The swingarm because I want to camo paint it. Here's a photo of the bike suspended to hold the rear tire off the ground.
In these photos the rear tire is just barely off the ground. I hang the bike from the rack using ratchet straps from the garage door rails.
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I still say that rear tire doesn't look like it would ever work. Looking forward to seeing this actually done.
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In these photos the rear tire is just barely off the ground. I hang the bike from the rack using ratchet straps from the garage door rails.
I still say that rear tire doesn't look like it would ever work. Looking forward to seeing this actually done.
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That tire does look improbable until you see Brian's sane install. If his is the 9 inch wide vs. the 8 inch then you should be good. Not much clearance between swingarm and Duro so beware of picking up small furry animals and getting them jammed in there.
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Gerry, you thread here has the potential of being the definitive source for info on details of the non-CNC hub to trailer wheel mating. Keep up the good work.
As a cheapster and optimist I figured I was dollars ahead to simply pay a tire shop to hydraulically spoon on & off tires for install or flat repair on the stock hub as needed whether they be a stock rear TrailWing or replacement ATV tires. My local shop only charges $15 to R&R but I have to stand guard reminding them not to try to fully seat the bead with mega air pressure ( they logically must know better than an un-informed owner such as I thus the stories of exploded ATV tires).
Gerry, you thread here has the potential of being the definitive source for info on details of the non-CNC hub to trailer wheel mating. Keep up the good work.
As a cheapster and optimist I figured I was dollars ahead to simply pay a tire shop to hydraulically spoon on & off tires for install or flat repair on the stock hub as needed whether they be a stock rear TrailWing or replacement ATV tires. My local shop only charges $15 to R&R but I have to stand guard reminding them not to try to fully seat the bead with mega air pressure ( they logically must know better than an un-informed owner such as I thus the stories of exploded ATV tires).
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Thanks Fred.That tire does look improbable until you see Brian's sane install. If his is the 9 inch wide vs. the 8 inch then you should be good. Not much clearance between swingarm and Duro so beware of picking up small furry animals and getting them jammed in there.
Gerry, you thread here has the potential of being the definitive source for info on details of the non-CNC hub to trailer wheel mating. Keep up the good work.
As a cheapster and optimist I figured I was dollars ahead to simply pay a tire shop to hydraulically spoon on & off tires for install or flat repair on the stock hub as needed whether they be a stock rear TrailWing or replacement ATV tires. My local shop only charges $15 to R&R but I have to stand guard reminding them not to try to fully seat the bead with mega air pressure ( they logically must know better than an un-informed owner such as I thus the stories of exploded ATV tires).
Even easier will be a second trailer rim with tire mounted. That would run around $100 for rim and tire, depending on what one decides on getting.
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A spare mounted up 12" rim and tire is a previously unmentioned brilliant extension of the logic that justifies this conversion. To be back of beyond on a week's adventure with a bad tire would be so much better with a bolt-on solution at hand to save the trip.
I got hooked on the simply " Aw, let's just hook up the air compressor and we'll motor down the trail untill we need to air-up again" attitude used by evan when he got a puncture on a group ride with the Nor Cal gang.
Not elegant but it worked for a dozen miles or more.
I got hooked on the simply " Aw, let's just hook up the air compressor and we'll motor down the trail untill we need to air-up again" attitude used by evan when he got a puncture on a group ride with the Nor Cal gang.
Not elegant but it worked for a dozen miles or more.
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Hey Jerry,
Here was my experience getting the Duro V2 mounted (posted earlier in the main trailer wheel thread).
"I got my second trailer wheel tire mounted today. I went with the Duro Power Grip V2 in the 26 x 9 x 12 size. It was $84.99 on clearance from Rocky Mountain ATV with free shipping. I took it to same motorcycle shop that had easily mounted my first trailer wheel tire, a Sedona Rip-Saw (which I don't recommend), but it was a different guy that was working there today. He was a big burly guy who was able to get one side of the tire onto the wheel, but was unable to get the second side started with his machine and he gave up without charging me anything. I then took the half mounted tire and wheel to Big-O Tires and asked them if they could get the remaining side mounted. This time it was a little skinny guy who weighed about half of what the first guy did. He said "sure", and he got it spun on in no time, with both beads popping on at about 30 psi. He said "no charge", but I gave him a nice tip."
I never bothered getting either of mine balanced, it just seemed kind of pointless to me.
Ah, now the lug bolts. Yes, Mike likes the VW ones, but I found them difficult to find. Couldn't get them at NAPA, O'Reilly's or AutoZone, and had to get mine at a VW dealer for about $8 apiece (ouch!) because I didn't want to wait and order them online. They are 14 x 1.5 x about 25mm long. Any length between 20 to 27mm should work fine. If you go longer than that, you run the risk of one of them running into bolts that mount the brake drum.
Both of my trailer wheels used the round seat style of lug bolts vs the 60 degree taper style. The picture below shows a round seat 14 x 1.5 style on the left and a 12 x 1.5 tapered style on the right (that I have planned for the next generation concept). I also called Recstuff.com a few weeks ago and left a message asking 1) which style is needed on the wheels that we are using, and 2) can they be interchanged, i.e., will either style bolt work with either style wheel? So far, no response so I need to follow-up with them.
![IMG_3721.JPG]()
Here was my experience getting the Duro V2 mounted (posted earlier in the main trailer wheel thread).
"I got my second trailer wheel tire mounted today. I went with the Duro Power Grip V2 in the 26 x 9 x 12 size. It was $84.99 on clearance from Rocky Mountain ATV with free shipping. I took it to same motorcycle shop that had easily mounted my first trailer wheel tire, a Sedona Rip-Saw (which I don't recommend), but it was a different guy that was working there today. He was a big burly guy who was able to get one side of the tire onto the wheel, but was unable to get the second side started with his machine and he gave up without charging me anything. I then took the half mounted tire and wheel to Big-O Tires and asked them if they could get the remaining side mounted. This time it was a little skinny guy who weighed about half of what the first guy did. He said "sure", and he got it spun on in no time, with both beads popping on at about 30 psi. He said "no charge", but I gave him a nice tip."
I never bothered getting either of mine balanced, it just seemed kind of pointless to me.
Ah, now the lug bolts. Yes, Mike likes the VW ones, but I found them difficult to find. Couldn't get them at NAPA, O'Reilly's or AutoZone, and had to get mine at a VW dealer for about $8 apiece (ouch!) because I didn't want to wait and order them online. They are 14 x 1.5 x about 25mm long. Any length between 20 to 27mm should work fine. If you go longer than that, you run the risk of one of them running into bolts that mount the brake drum.
Both of my trailer wheels used the round seat style of lug bolts vs the 60 degree taper style. The picture below shows a round seat 14 x 1.5 style on the left and a 12 x 1.5 tapered style on the right (that I have planned for the next generation concept). I also called Recstuff.com a few weeks ago and left a message asking 1) which style is needed on the wheels that we are using, and 2) can they be interchanged, i.e., will either style bolt work with either style wheel? So far, no response so I need to follow-up with them.
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I think the black rim makes the tire look even bigger then it is. I bought an 8x25. Installation not complete yet.
Now I'm rethinking this. That 9x26 looks really good. Is that a stock swing arm?
How much did this raise the rear of the bike?
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