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Discussion Starter #1
Are they all pretty much the same, or did any of you find one you really like? I guess the smaller, the better for me. I don’t mind changing tubes. It’s only for my bikes and my pickups for now. I bought a cheap one years ago for my FJ40 and it was garbage. Can I use the same grease for swingarm bearings and pickup ball joints, etc? Id appreciate a where to buy link, if you have one. Thanks and cheers
 

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Get a marine grease.. Doubt your pickup and FJ40 goes though as much water as the TW. this is JMHO.
On the cartage is states Marine waterproof for boat trailers.
Now if grease can be used on a boat trailer, those wheels spinning rotating faster than anything u have, unless your trying to break the sound barrier.

Just go to an auto parts house and get it.
All i can say is what i use, dont have any to look at brand, but it's in a blue cartage if i remember right.

I'd have to run the auto parts and look to see what is.
have used to for 40 years on my 4X4s i have had over that time period.
Whatever needs grease that was what i used.
Wheel bearings, U joints, etc.
 

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Just back from Auto Zone, i need some so went.
They did not have what i was looking for.

They had the Auto Zone Premium Marine Grease.
Probably just as good, but was in the large cartage.

I dont like the large cartage, just because.
I may have gotten that at Walmart.

Don't remember it being an off brand.
 

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I have a Harbor Freight air grease gun. It works great. Just drop your cartridge of grease in it and hook to your air hose. One pull of the trigger squirts about as much grease as one pump of a manual grease gun. I have about 20 zirk fittings on the Astro van so it makes the job much easier.
 

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I own an air powered craftsman and a 20v dewailt and also an old manual gun. I personally hate a grease gun that does not have a flexable hose on it, they just wont always go where you need them to with a rigid pipe on them.

As far as grease goes like smitty says there are different greases for differeent apoplicaitons but if you want a good all purpose grease that wont wash away Lucal oil Red and Tacky is the stuff. I have been using it as a chassis lube for years and my old chevy silverado has ~200k on the clock with all original front end parts in it and they are still good. A Mechanic friend of mine tgells me that my truck is the only 4wd he has ever seen that got that kind of miles out of a front end.

I also use the same for wheel bearings on my boat trailer. For me it has outperformed any "marine" grease i have ever used.
 

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Lucal oil Red and Tacky
I saw that at auto zone and picked it to have look at and thought nawww that an't what i want.

have to rethink about changing then.

Is that comment up there about all you can say about that grease ?
Just wondering.

I guess the question is how has it outperformed.
My boat trailer got backed up into the GoM to launch.
Never had a wheel bearing problem.
 

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We use the red and tacky on all of our equipment. Dozers, backhoes, skid loaders, dump trucks, crane. Our equipment sits outside in the Wisconsin rain, snow and summer heat. The stuff does not break down or wash away. If it can keep all that protected, it will work just fine on your bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks all for the advice. I was really happy to see the replacement ball joints for my Tacoma came with zerk fittings.

I agree about flexible nozzle being a necessity.

Cheers
 

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I use the red sticky stuff myself, but the guys in our shop agree with this (we have hundred of machines, heavy equipment etc.. mining..):
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/grease.18695/

Grease quality is not as important as how often you grease (unless it's a show piece!). The only time they will use the high end stuff is when the location of the grease point is hard to get to and/or in a place that may be missed more often than not (or you are very lazy!).
For regular maintenance, regular market grease does well.

PS. Keep in mind greasing "pushes water out!" of the location your greasing. Even with the best grease, when the location is under water it gets water pushed into it by the water pressure. As an example just try to push a cup under water and imagine that pressure pushing water in your swing arm bushing/bearing etc.. You need to push that water back out with new grease.. Take it from someone who has been riding swamps for years. Grease more if you run it! If it's a garage queen, pamper it with gold flake grease (yep I saw that on a show truck!) LOL
 

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I guess the question is how has it outperformed.
My boat trailer got backed up into the GoM to launch.
Never had a wheel bearing problem.
I can say a lot more and ill focus on the boat.

First place it has worked better for me. On my outboard itself. I lube the trim bracket with it and unlike the stuff Merc recommends and sells it does not get pushed out of the bracket by pressure like the merc stuff does, it simply stays put and it does not wash away quickly

Second place is the trailer and its a long story. I used to fish a lot of bass tournaments all over the country east of the Mississippi and as such i have towed a lot of miles, as in hundreds of thousands of miles. I firmly believe that the vast majority of bearing problems on trailers are caused by lack of maintenance. As i said i have towed a lot of miles over the years and in that time i have had only one bearing failure. That failure was not caused by a lubrication or a maintenance issue, it was caused by crappy Chinese made parts that blew apart on an almost new boat trailer( my father was a metallurgist and he showed me on the other side where the heat treating was poorly done , same went for the brand new ones that came with the replacement hub/disc i needed to buy). When this happened i was very far away from home and i ended up fixing the bearing in the parking lot of a tiny Napa store that just so happened to be right off the exit of the freeway where i had the failure. It was a good thing that store was there because i needed parts, the boat dealer gave me the wrong bearings for my brand new trailer and without the right parts i was screwed. They had the needed parts and i also needed grease since one of my club buddies apparently borrowed my grease gun from my truck and emptied it. The only grease they had on the shelf that would fit my mini gun that i keep in my road kit was the Lucas red and tacky. I had never used it in a wheel bearing before but when you are 300+ miles from home you go with what they have. So i get the hub back together but i had two problems, the hub was damaged to the point that i could not get a seal to stay nor would a cap fit on it. I figured i may lose the grease but if i stop every 15 or 20 miles and refill i should be fine so long as i don't run it dry. I made it the entire 300+ miles home without having to put another pump of grease into the spindle. At one point I went 100 miles without even bothering to check it. I know for a fact that the "marine" grease i used to run would not have done that. Over the years i have lost a bearing cap or two, they do fall off from time to time and with normal "marine" grease you end up with grease slung everywhere when a cap falls off an if left unattended a smoked bearing, with the Lucas the couple times i have lost one i have no mess anywhere and the grease stays in the hub. That lost bearing incident and trip home sold me on using the Lucas for my trailer, i use the same on my enclosed bike trailer too.

The other place i feel on the bearings its better is corrosion. I know "marine" grease has anti corrosion stuff in it too but over the years i have seen many pitted bearings and races when i pull them apart for my annual repack and reseal. Using the Lucas i have not seen any, the set of bearings in my current trailer are a decade old and still look perfect with close to 100k miles on them.

I don't have any evidence to back this up but i feel the bearings run cooler too, I always give my hubs the grab test any time i stop just to feel for any potential issue that may be brewing and with the lucas they are barely warm after along tow vs the distinctly warm that they used to be.

You mileage may vary but for me that Lucas stuff has worked very well for my applications including my TW. The swingarm and steering head both have that stuff in it.
 

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Are there really any inferior grease cartridge brands whose grease actually breaks down and washes away?
Plenty of them. Cheap grease (store brands, no name off brands) Break down and liquefy with heat (think near hot engine, exhaust, hot hydraulics) and run out of the area they are supposed to be protecting. Have seen this many times on hot 80 to90 degree days on our heavy equipment. At that point the grease is broken down and washes away with rain or washing. Many cheap (read Chinese) greases are full of wax, more then petroleum based product. Cheap grease like you find at Harbor Freight, some farm stores and box stores is no bargain. Pay up for the good stuff. Changing an arm pin on a backhoe at midnight because you need it to make money to feed your Family the next day is no fun. Especially if the failure was caused by cheap grease. You probably would not use some cheap no name oil in your bike would you? Your grease should be no different. I make my living with my equipment. Thousands of hours and years of service on my equipment and red and tacky has NEVER let me down.
 
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