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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

Just got back to riding after a 7yr hiatus
It's crazy fun, and I've been slowly upgrading the tw (yes, pics to come :p)

I've recently added a Clarke xt350 fuel tank and found my bars don't clear for a full steering lock
I tried some 0.7" risers I had laying around to no avail


Now! The question...
If I get the Pro taper ATV high bars, will they clear the tank on their own or do I need risers/tilt it forward in addition?

I use the tw for a ~50km one way highway commute daily but will be using it for more off road in addition soon
So I'm also wondering if there's any compromise getting these high bars for street or dirt riding
Oh, and I'm 5' 9.5"


Thanks for your help guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh! Or if there are any other solutions, I'm open :)

Sorry for making yet another thread on this
Just couldn't find an exclusive yes/no on what will clear the tank

Thanks again!
 

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Welcome, I was able to move my Clarke XT350 tank back a little to avoid the handlebars. I ended up cutting some hockey pucks down to replace the stock rubber mounts (basically just making them longer). This allowed me to move the tank back some while retaining a good tight fit. Some have been able to add spacers to the tank (where the mounts go) but that didn't allow me to mount the tank as far back as I wanted. I am running risers but I don't have the handlebars tilted forward. On the tightest of turns my handlebars may touch the tank but it doesn't affect the turning radius.
 

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I'm trying different tanks.
I used the top half of handle bar clamp as bottom. But I also made different rubber mounts. As it was both triple clamp and bars hitting. I now have Pro Tappers and the bigger rubber mounts and clear's fine.
I was told washers can be added under the bar clamps to gain more height. It is an option that I was not comfortable with.
 

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I mounted the XT350 Clarke with about a 3/4" set back from where the stock tank sits using a process similar to what Leben describes. This is necessary to stop interference with the top triple clamp. I used the stock bars with 2" Rox risers to stop the interference with the bars. There are several well documented threads on this tank mod.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Guys, you're awesome
Thanks for the quick responses and help

Leben, I've got the tank back. It seems that when I move it further back it starts to interfere with the seat
Does this happen to you to? or how are you avoiding this?

Scotti, awesome job
Unfortunately I'm not able to machine anything. Also, pulling the bars forward feels a little awkward for me.
But again, looks cool. Kudos for the spec sheets too
I'll have to check out your other work

Lol Paliden, washers under the clamps was what I was thinking of doing when I got frustrated. You're right though, I'm waiting for a proper fix


And finally troll
I've got the tank far enough back that it just clears the triple
Unfortunately I don't have 2" risers
Before I make a purchase, I wanted to verify if just an ATV hi bar would be good
But thanks, at least I know that 2" risers are an option with stock bars

I've perused those threads you mentioned before and didn't find an explicit statement of ATV highs alone being good or not...
 

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Leben, I've got the tank back. It seems that when I move it further back it starts to interfere with the seat
Does this happen to you to? or how are you avoiding this?..
20130326_142104_zpsccab27a1.jpg
Not the best picture, but you can see that I have shortened the seat to fit the gas tank. I also cut some of the reinforced parts under the seat to allow it to flex a little more. I cut out part of the seat pan to make room for the adapted rear gas tank mount.

if you need better pictures of the seat I can take some when I get the bike out again.

If you would like a couple of hockey pucks to make mounts out of, I have 2 extra that I would be happy to send you for free. Just pm me if you want them.
 

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TW06,
I cant seem to remember to take pics but the Pro Tapper ATV hi bars have a wider base. The width is greater than the stock were it mounts to triple clamps. So might hit tank, sooner than stock. I would have liked to have seen different bars before ordering.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
View attachment 8898
Not the best picture, but you can see that I have shortened the seat to fit the gas tank. I also cut some of the reinforced parts under the seat to allow it to flex a little more. I cut out part of the seat pan to make room for the adapted rear gas tank mount.

if you need better pictures of the seat I can take some when I get the bike out again.

If you would like a couple of hockey pucks to make mounts out of, I have 2 extra that I would be happy to send you for free. Just pm me if you want them.
Thanks Leben, the hockey puck sounds nice and solid, but I've used spacers to compensate for moving the tank forward
I'll be using pucks, but for the 98cents they cost... I think the shipping from Iowa to Ontario would be much more =p
And yes, I've cut the seat using Peruano's instructions
I'll be taking the seat off again and try to make extra space

Paliden, thanks for the heads up on those bars
I think I'll be going for risers then


So 2" rise minimum?


IMG_20140813_074630155_HDR.jpg IMG_20140813_074641326_HDR.jpg
 

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2" of rise is about all the cable and brake lines will allow. I think I even released wires and lines from the stock fixture points to get a relaxed fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks troll
I've gone and ordered 2" Rox Speed pivoting risers

I wanted to chance a lower rise too, so I thought I'd pick up a tusk 30mm as well

Thanks again everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter #13


And there's the closer to this thread :p

Just hate seeing threads unresolved, lol

For future reference, the Tusk 30mm risers alone did not work with the Clarke XT350 tank

The 2" Rox Speed FXs worked with out any cable reroutes. But I will in the future because the cables are at their max with the risers.

Thanks again for the help
And I hope this provides extra reference for anyone in the future!
 
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