First, let me make it known that this failure was due to negligence. Had the bike loaded up on the Harbor Freight hitch carrier and I was going through a cattle gate - a buddy was supposed to be ensuring that the gate did not contact the vehicle/hitch carrier. He failed to do so! The gate contacted the carrier and instantaneously, the square tubing in the receiver SNAPPED! It only was able to bend about 10 degrees tops. The damage to the gate was only a dime-sized dent. Again, this failure was due to negligence, but I was amazed at how thin and weak the metal was! I was never comfortable with this carrier - and I am actually very happy that it failed in this way and not while traveling at speed.
I'm really surprised it failed in that manner. Usually, non-hardened steel should fail by bending, but this clearly sheared off due to the metal being brittle. I'd say metal quality, not thickness, was the root cause of the failure.
But it really was a lot of leverage. I have one and I don't want mine falling off on I-5 at 70 miles an hour, but when I back into a light post I'll blame my Wife and then after She quiets down I will blame cheap Chinese steel and be glad that I didn't weld it up myself.
This thread is just a warning to those who have the same item - I have used this carrier for a couple of years with no real complaints, save for the very short length of the loading ramp. I always made a habit to check the welds on the square tubing inserted into the receiver and checked for any issues. I never imagined the main support of the carrier would have given out in such a manner. Please be aware of the potential for catastrophic and unexpected failure.
Hard to put a piece of pipe inside and still get the pin through. You would be better off using the correct wall thickness of box tubing instead of what Harbor Freight used.
What is the thickness of the steel?
1/8” should be fine but when I make them for 350 lb jet skis I use 3/16” to be safe. My guess is Harbor Freight uses .08” which is what the calculations suggest is safe for the weight.
Also, did it fail at the hitch pin? That’s not where you would expect a failure.
Wow! I’m shaking in my boots! I use two of them! They are a year old and left outside most of the time because of space limitations. I use two extra tie downs attached to hauler and frame to prevent moving and swaying
anyone know what size pipe fits?
Wow! I’m shaking in my boots! I use two of them! They are a year old and left outside most of the time because of space limitations. I use two extra tie downs attached to hauler and frame to prevent moving and swaying
anyone know what size pipe fits?
Holey COW Batman!
That must take you what, maybe an hour to install each carrier, run the bikes up, then, 10,000 tie downs, and I see you're using auxiliary lights due to the fact that the Jeep tail lights are fairly obscured from following drivers, correct? Now, a question, what about the head lights and front turn signals, can anyone see those coming at you? I sort-a applaud your situation there, two bikes AND a Jeep for getting out and away from it all, yahoo!
Scott
I also have a Harbor Freight hitch hauler. Used it to haul my Grom around (225 LBS). Guess I will be reinforcing the thing now that I have traded the Grom for a 285 lb Suzukib Van Van.
Hitch haulers are not created equal. Harbor is the bottom of the pack. Not because of origin but because they are the least expensive option out there. When one looks at the physics it’s clear hitch hauling is an iffy proposition at best with loads exceeding 100 lbs. one can do it but should you? Investing in a well made and designed haul unit would seem to be the smart thing to do. In reality the extra expense will pay off. If one is real smart ante up to a hydraulic lift hitch haul is really the best way to haul your momo. Save your back, protect your motorcycle, make for easier hauling. Hard when your cheap by nature but if you want to play you gotta pay. Safety is never cheap. I think Fred has better opinions than mine and practice experience.
All these receiver hitch carries tend to stress the trailer hitch assembly much more than pulling a simple trailer.
Due to carrier and bike's center of mass being located further to the rear than a trailer ball any comparisons to static tongue weight ratings are not really applicable, please do not delude yourself.
Dynamically a receiver carrier also sees some big vertical impact loads going over bumps that a trailer never sees since trailer tends to react via rotation around its axle.
Haul vehicles with frame mounted trailer hitches are less susceptible to damage from the transferred loads than those with uni-body construction. My Astro van is due for its third revision of hitch-to-unibody mounting since I keep bending successively stouter steel reinforcements.
i use one of the cheap Habor Freight type carriers. have hauled my bikes all over the western US for the last 4 years, 20,000 kms, without a problem. i do support the carrier from each end with a chain up to my tow hooks, i beleive this takes at least 1/2 the weight off of the stinger. it also removes all back and forth movement that would stress the mountings
i don't know how the lights would light the road, i don't drive at night and it would be hard to say as each truck is different. i can see my headlights through the bike, so maybe it would be ok with my set up. i know it would be inviting trouble with the cops at night
Grewen, is that a Princess Auto special? I have one that I use from time to time, but never for any long distance. My biggest concern has always been the fact that the cradle the bike sits in is made in two pieces and reinforces by that "bridge". Glad to hear that it is more robust than I thought.
yes, Princess crapola. i didn't like that it was 2 pieces either, it sagged when the bike was on it. i welded it into one piece and i welded some extra flat bar so the bolts wouldn't wear through. i tried to reinforce any thing that looked weak. and with the chains supporting from each side, i haven't seen any signs of wear. i have hauled various bikes, from honda ct90 to a suzuki dr650 and used the rack on 3 different trucks, all is still good
With Dave's post it's easy to see where to insert a piece of steel black pipe if you so desire to strengthen your carrier. If you smash the end a little it will fit in nice and tight. Drill the hole through for the hitch pin. You can really see how much stronger a good carrier is.
Also have a Black Widow hitch carrier, # MX-600X to haul Zuma scooters and the current TW. Very heavy but sturdy with a sliding stabilizer that works well to keep rocking motions in check.
Ordered from Discount Ramps in 2017 and other than rough paint is still giving good service. Survived digging a gouge into asphalt when backing my motorhome out of a steep driveway. Tweaked the bumper a bit but no visible effects to the carrier.
That's a great bike rack!! One of the better one's out there.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
TW200 Forum
532.4K posts
23.4K members
Since 2010
A forum community dedicated to Yamaha TW200 owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, exhaust, suspension, parts, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!