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Just do it, as long as you are not concerned about Alabama law enforcement possibly citing you for non-compliant lighting on public roads. Some of us use LED H4 replacement bulbs in order to retain stock headlight assembly and cowling for a semblance of legality. I do this even though I fully acknowledge the stock reflector will not provide as uniform a beam pattern as the depicted light bars.
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Discussion Starter #3
I rarely see the po-po but was more worried about electrical draw. If I can wire spot on low beam and flood on high that would be ideal. Stock is 55watts correct so as long as I stay under that I should be good. Was thinking two 7" stacked. Thanks!
 

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The depicted light bars look to have 12 of a previous generation CREE chips each @ a nominal 3 watts/chip set thus ~36 watt draw per light. I forget where to find the exact graph of stator output vs. engine RPM but figure ~90 watts available for new millennium TWs with ~ stock 35 watt draw on low beam and 55 watt draw on high beam. Adding the shown flood light on high beam would exceed likely 90 watt total unless some of the hotel load is reduced. Those inefficient front incandescent running lights I think draw 18 watts each as well as the incandescent tail light. Disconnecting running lights, or replacing them with LED equivalents is a way to free up power to drive auxiliary lighting.
 

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