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I was trying to install a duro atv tire on my stock rear wheel and almost had the bead seated and it blew. Long story short it bent the rim Where it blew off and is not able to be straightened. If anyone has something sitting around and could part with it I would be greatly appreciated so I can get back to riding! I’m sick to my stomach over this.
 

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Sorry to hear it. You’re not the first so don’t feel too bad. With a torch and a hammer and a block of wood I was able to get some nasty spoon bends out of my rim. But if yours is too far gone, maybe someone here will have a spare they are willing to part with. Are you in Nebraska? Shipping will probably be somewhat costly. You can find em on eBay like this one for $100 plus $18 for shipping if you don’t need black.


Good luck
 
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Too bad about the rim. Can we learn from your mistake? How much air pressure did it take to blow the rim and tire apart?
 

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Sorry to hear it. You’re not the first so don’t feel too bad. With a torch and a hammer and a block of wood I was able to get some nasty spoon bends out of my rim. But if yours is too far gone, maybe someone here will have a spare they are willing to part with. Are you in Nebraska? Shipping will probably be somewhat costly. You can find em on eBay like this one for $100 plus $18 for shipping if you don’t need black.


Good luck
Don't bother bidding on this one, you'll be disappointed (it is a front wheel/rim).
 

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Too bad about the rim. Can we learn from your mistake? How much air pressure did it take to blow the rim and tire apart?
The tire that I was installing was a Duro Power Grip Radial Tire 26x8-14. I read that some people have had luck getting it to seat without grinding down the bead of the tire so of course I went that way. I had it installed on the rim (bead not all the way seated) with 60psi in it for almost two weeks trying to get it to stretch out a little. My father who owns the mechanic shop that I am doing this at says bring the tire back and put 100psi in it and see what it does. I set broke it back down and set it on the tire machine. Lubed up the tire really good with tire lube and started to put air back into it. It got really close to seating when I was at 90psi or so and I should have just left it be and see if it would have seated but I was close so I went to 100. At this point it was almost their and then the bomb went off. It was very loud and violent. I would caution anyone to be extremely careful doing this and make sure you have an air hose with a valve so you can put air in the tire from a ways away. If my hand would have been near it I bet it would not be working anymore lol. The rim bent in 3 different spots. The bead of the rim bent out in two different spots on one side and then the side that was resting on the machine one of the feet from the machine bent the rim in from the force. The top bead of the tire actually was the one that blew up and forced the tire and rim down into the machine. Otherwise if the bottom would have blown it probably would have been stuck in the ceiling. If I was to do this over I would definitely take some material off the bead of the tire and not go past 70 psi.
 

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The tire that I was installing was a Duro Power Grip Radial Tire 26x8-14. I read that some people have had luck getting it to seat without grinding down the bead of the tire so of course I went that way. I had it installed on the rim (bead not all the way seated) with 60psi in it for almost two weeks trying to get it to stretch out a little. My father who owns the mechanic shop that I am doing this at says bring the tire back and put 100psi in it and see what it does. I set broke it back down and set it on the tire machine. Lubed up the tire really good with tire lube and started to put air back into it. It got really close to seating when I was at 90psi or so and I should have just left it be and see if it would have seated but I was close so I went to 100. At this point it was almost their and then the bomb went off. It was very loud and violent. I would caution anyone to be extremely careful doing this and make sure you have an air hose with a valve so you can put air in the tire from a ways away. If my hand would have been near it I bet it would not be working anymore lol. The rim bent in 3 different spots. The bead of the rim bent out in two different spots on one side and then the side that was resting on the machine one of the feet from the machine bent the rim in from the force. The top bead of the tire actually was the one that blew up and forced the tire and rim down into the machine. Otherwise if the bottom would have blown it probably would have been stuck in the ceiling. If I was to do this over I would definitely take some material off the bead of the tire and not go past 70 psi.
? when I read stories like this it makes me cringe that doing this sort of thing is SO DANGEROUS, as you have already said when it went of it sounded like a bomb, ok I understand that the tdub has a VERY LIMITED choice of tyres, but those rims are designed for a certain profile of bead and manufactured for a max load rating for those size tyres and pressures . Now I don’t know if you could get a rim hand machined out of billet alloy so that it would take atv tyres, if you were going to use them all the time ,but I would imagine the cost would not be cheap , also the square profile of rear tyre would make it handle badly especially if you had to use it on road to get to the off road area where you want to be , never mind the speed rating for a atv tyre .
I have witnessed wagon tyres blow the split rim retainers off old style wheels and it’s a flying heavy metal projectile , hence why they have to be inflated inside a steel cage until the pressure of tyre clamps the ring down to secure it .
Now we had a bit of a craze here in uk where the young “ boy racers” with cars would stretch low profile tyres over wider than normal rims, really putting those sidewalks under stress , tif they looked cool , but that basically resulted in tyres leaving the rims at speed , causing the car to crash etc , plus their insurance company’s refusing pay outs or re insurance of proposer as they had basically made the car unsafe and not declared the modification, but that’s just another scenario of fitting the wrong type of tyres , but you must do what you think is right :whistle:
 

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? when I read stories like this it makes me cringe that doing this sort of thing is SO DANGEROUS, as you have already said when it went of it sounded like a bomb, ok I understand that the tdub has a VERY LIMITED choice of tyres, but those rims are designed for a certain profile of bead and manufactured for a max load rating for those size tyres and pressures . Now I don’t know if you could get a rim hand machined out of billet alloy so that it would take atv tyres, if you were going to use them all the time ,but I would imagine the cost would not be cheap , also the square profile of rear tyre would make it handle badly especially if you had to use it on road to get to the off road area where you want to be , never mind the speed rating for a atv tyre .
I have witnessed wagon tyres blow the split rim retainers off old style wheels and it’s a flying heavy metal projectile , hence why they have to be inflated inside a steel cage until the pressure of tyre clamps the ring down to secure it .
Now we had a bit of a craze here in uk where the young “ boy racers” with cars would stretch low profile tyres over wider than normal rims, really putting those sidewalks under stress , tif they looked cool , but that basically resulted in tyres leaving the rims at speed , causing the car to crash etc , plus their insurance company’s refusing pay outs or re insurance of proposer as they had basically made the car unsafe and not declared the modification, but that’s just another scenario of fitting the wrong type of tyres , but you must do what you think is right :whistle:
Sounds like the Duro tires have a little more mounting blow-ups than the Ceros ATV tires and a few other brands.

The trailer rim mod takes the "explosiveness" out of the equation for sure. While a little pricey, I'm glad we have one mod for one of our TW's and hope to get a second someday. The problem is I have two ATV tires on TW rims already that I have to wear out from use first and that could be a while.
203507


Both of these are modded by two different guys for the trailer rim. One just doesn't have the brake drum bolted on yet. Bonus is no tube and punctures are fixed easily with a plug kit and the tire mounts/inflates very easy on the trailer rim.
203508
 

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There is a reason that that the consistent advice here has been to trim, use quality tire grease, heat, time and low inflation pressures for success installing any ATV tire on a stock TW rear rim. Sure, there have been anecdotes of some being successful skipping some of these steps but I do't recall any of them then actually recommending that others do the same.
Perhaps a suitable course of action at this point would be for the father's shop to fabricate an adapter to mate the savaged TW hub and brake assembly to a suitable 12 or 14 inch trailer rim. Slight increase in cost comes with greater safety and versatility compared with attempting same goal with a replacement TW rim.
(14" to re-cycle the purchased Duro PowerGrip or a 12" for greater tire selection options)
 
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Admiral, it took me about 7,000 miles to wear out my Duro so you better start riding more. Sawsall and bolt cutters worked for my shade tree mechanic technique of Duro tire removal.
grommit.gif
 
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Hey Evan,

If you would be willing to be a "Proof of Concept" tester for the forum, here is what I can offer you. A few years ago, I had my friend Axel (Vanilla Gorilla, here on the forum), take an old, beat up rear rim and remove a small slice (3/8") from the circumference where the original factory weld was. He then rewelded the rim back together, resulting in a rim with a slightly smaller cirumference which should (hopefully?) make it easier to get an ATV tire mounted. See the pics below to help understand what was done.

Let me know if you are interested,

Brian

IMG_0591 (3).jpg
IMG_0591 (3).jpg
IMG_0592 (1).jpg
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IMG_0596.jpg
 

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Vanilla Gorilla 's numerous other welded TW projects have shown that he is a rather accomplished fabricator. I would tend to trust his work even though a re-fabricated wheel certainly comes with some risks.
 

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Vanilla Gorilla 's numerous other welded TW projects have shown that he is a rather accomplished fabricator. I would tend to trust his work even though a re-fabricated wheel certainly comes with some risks.
:oops: Was that the final finish of weld on top of rim ? Or was it flatted down and top up welded again then re flatted until smooth and then painted ??
 

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:oops: Was that the final finish of weld on top of rim ? Or was it flatted down and top up welded again then re flatted until smooth and then painted ??
Here's how Axel described it to me:

"I actually used very little filler rod for this weld. Rather just tig over the seam and fuse it together since it lined up so well. I rolled it across the floor and it looks reasonable but I’m sure you know this rim was a bit rough anyways."
 

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The tire that I was installing was a Duro Power Grip Radial Tire 26x8-14. I read that some people have had luck getting it to seat without grinding down the bead of the tire so of course I went that way. I had it installed on the rim (bead not all the way seated) with 60psi in it for almost two weeks trying to get it to stretch out a little. My father who owns the mechanic shop that I am doing this at says bring the tire back and put 100psi in it and see what it does. I set broke it back down and set it on the tire machine. Lubed up the tire really good with tire lube and started to put air back into it. It got really close to seating when I was at 90psi or so and I should have just left it be and see if it would have seated but I was close so I went to 100. At this point it was almost their and then the bomb went off. It was very loud and violent. I would caution anyone to be extremely careful doing this and make sure you have an air hose with a valve so you can put air in the tire from a ways away. If my hand would have been near it I bet it would not be working anymore lol. The rim bent in 3 different spots. The bead of the rim bent out in two different spots on one side and then the side that was resting on the machine one of the feet from the machine bent the rim in from the force. The top bead of the tire actually was the one that blew up and forced the tire and rim down into the machine. Otherwise if the bottom would have blown it probably would have been stuck in the ceiling. If I was to do this over I would definitely take some material off the bead of the tire and not go past 70 psi.
Thanks for the information and details so that more people can avoid catastrophe.
 

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Holy crapskipooper! Glad you still had enough balls to post your mistake. Now go change your shorts.
 
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Thanks, Prairierider!

I just copied what you did, but never got around to relacing the modified rim to a hub. How has your wheel been holding up?

Brian
 

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Held up great. Spokes stayed tight.
 
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I made the same mistake about a year ago or so. I finally got it right after reading and much advice from this forum and SLOWING way down and having patience (that was tough). I went with a Terracross and never looked back. I think you will really like ATV rear. Funny, I just sold my spare rear hub on eBay today. Wonder if it was to someone on here or someone interested in the wheel mod.
 
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