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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, here goes..... I had plans to take my TW over to the Olympic peninsula this weekend for a few days to ride some logging roads with friends. Since someone gave me a set of free saddlebags I decided to possibly try leaving the blue milk crate packing system. So, I ordered the Cyclerack bag supports and secured the bags as best I could. Decided I had better give them a test run so rode the TW to work yesterday. While cruising along I felt like those saddlebags were creating a tremendous amount of drag, seemed way worse than I expected. I was full out and could only attain 61 mph, way less than my usual 68 - 70 mph. and the bike seemed to be really struggling on the long incline I have to go up.

After work I needed to head over to the valley, abut a 40 mile ride via back roads so I left the saddlebags on. The TW just didn't feel like her usual self so I was letting her poke along, I thought it was drag created from those saddlebags. Then while at a stoplight I tried to scoot up to talk to a friend that was riding along and I could barely duck walk the bike. It seemed to have friction while I had the clutch pulled in. So, of course I put it in neutral and it seemed no better. I felt like a lot of effort was put into getting the TW moving. Well, the rest of the ride felt like a struggle. I just wanted to get home but of course when it's getting dark and the bike isn't running quite right, I would run into road construction where I had to sit for over half an hour as we on occasion scooted forward. I couldn't seem to duck walk the bike, I got off several times while stopped at the road construction and I checked the linkage to the back brake, I even gave it a couple turns to loosen it....just in case. Of course, while sitting in that traffic jam I realized I had meant to check the oil the evening before while I was checking the tire pressure. How could I have forgotten to do that? Once we got moving again I felt like the TW was running horribly, like there was a lot of friction or resistance of some kind. I just kept puttering along, going through all the roadwork where we were moving along amidst a lot of machinery; I didn't want to stop until I got out of all that chaos but I was really worrying about the oil level now.

Once clear and back on my island I pulled over onto the shoulder where a couple on a Harley immediately followed to see what my problem was. As soon as I stopped I could smell something burning and the Harley couple said they smelled it as they turned the corner. I looked at the site glass and could see oil, it might be a bit low but there was oil. The Harley guy kind of gave the bike a quick look as I described what had been happening. His wife/girlfriend said her car was only a mile away and she wanted to run and get it and come give me a ride but she was three sheets to the wind and my house was only two miles away so I of course declined. They were very nice and followed me to make certain I made it home as did my friend that is learning to ride. Once I got home, the Harley guy told me my brake light was on the entire time. I thought that confirmed it.... the brake was hung up or something....that was my diagnosis.

I felt bad because I had planned on leading my friend home since this was her first time riding in the dark but she understood and she made it home safely. Okay, back to the TW, today after work another friend and his co-worker came over to check things out. Turns out the vertical linkage leading up to a switch or something (on the right hand side of bike) was bent. My friend straightened it out and wah-la..... the brake light shut off. He rode it up and down the street a couple times and so did his co-worker and they said it seemed fine to them but since they aren't familiar with the TW they thought I should give it a try. Wouldn't you know, everything seemed fine now so we topped off the oil and went on a nice little ride around the perimeter or town, up a steep hill.....everything fine. After they all left I decided to keep riding around town and run a few errands in hopes that if it happened again it will be near home. Eventually after stopping at the bank, I realized I hadn't secured the safety strap on my magnetic tank bag so I stopped on a hill, put it in neutral and secured the strap. When I took my foot off the brake on that fairly steep hill, the bike didn't try to roll backwards so I kind of tried moving it with my feet and could tell there was some kind of friction again. I went ahead and put it in gear and stillfelt that resistance as I started going. I felt it for a little while but is seemed to ease up a bit....I think. I was starting to doubt myself so I went ahead and rode home. When I pulled into the garage it seemed like I was hearing an unusual clatter but I had intentionally left my earplugs out on this ride so maybe it's just that the bike sounds louder. I'm not sure if I am now over analyzing or if there is an intermittent issue going on. Of course intermittent issues are the worst because it won't happen when someone is there to help diagnose.

So, what are your thoughts? Brakes, bearings, clutch, gears???? :confused:
 

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Dette, can you get the rear tire off of the ground with a rear swingarm stand or something? If so, put the bike in neutral and and try to spin the rear tire with your hand with the motor off. It should spin freely. If not, it could be your rear drum brake hanging up. Can you push the bike around in neutral? (no stand now) Does it feel like you get any resistance from either the front or rear brakes?
 

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This sounds like a break dragging to me also. If they are dragging just a bit they may roll easy at first when cold. Then as they heat up they expand and the friction gets worse. I have seen this more with disks when the caliper hangs up, pads drag and the caliper get crazy hot. I will drive/ride them around a while until they start to stick then lick a finger and touch the caliper or hub. I've seen them hot enough it will sizzle like touching a hot iron. If you have the Disk and caliper set up on the front sometimes they just need a little compressed air followed by some break cleaner. If old enough they may need a rebuild and new seals.

ADD: 2013 isn't nearly old enough to need a rebuilt caliper
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Larry, Mike and Sponge, thanks for the quick response to my post.

I don't have a lift but I am going to let my friend read these because I bet he has one in his garage. I actually did remove the saddlebags before going on tonight's rides and the supports are nowhere near the tires. I also used a headlamp to look pretty closely at the Scottoiler tube end because I had an image in my mind last night while pondering possibilities of it kind of sucked into the rear sprocket.

I will keep you posted but it may not be right away because I have still decided to take my planned trip to the Olympic Peninsula but we are going to do it on road bikes and make the best of it. So, the TW issue will be on the back burner until I return.

Thanks again for the help.
 

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Safe riding Dette! Have a great trip, enjoy the weather.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just FYI for those trying to help Dette here...her bike is a 2013 TW200, disc front brake, and I know it has well over 7000 miles on it.
8,260 miles now.
 

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Few years back, my rear brake wasn't releasing all the way. Turned out to be the brake shoe cam in the rear drum was rusty and needed proper cleaning and lubrication.

Not only was my TW hard to move as you described, but my foot brake lever didn't return all the way up either. Is your foot brake lever returning all the way or not? Something to look at.

Should a rear brake "hangup" be your problem, here is a possible cause.
What it looked like in the "stuck" position. Note" the rusty powdery look.




What it looked like some time later after I cleaned and lubed it.


Hope you find the culprit soon, what ever the cause may end up being. Good luck and happy riding.
 

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Check to make sure the return spring from the brake pedal to the swing arm is connected. It is on the rod that goes to the rear drum lever and does two things, makes the pedal come back up and pushes the rear drum lever back. If your pedal does not spring back up to the normal non braking position this would cause the light to remain on and the brakes to be dragging.

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Dette, what did you find when you used the headlamp to inspect the ScottOiler drain pipe ? Was it where it is supposed to be ? Did everything look correct?

Let us know once your local friend gets a chance to inspect things. I know I am a distance away, but I can drive up there, bike lift in hand, and help out if need be.

And TWROG is right that the metal rod going from the rear brake light "switch" to the rear brake pedal, is supposed to have a bend in it. You solved that issue about having the brake light on, which makes me think the internals of the rear brake...shoes...springs, may be out of place, which caused the cam arm of the rear brake to rotate backwards...pulling on the link-rod that goes to the rear brake pedal, which would pull down on the thin rod that goes from the rear brake pedal to the rear brake switch, causing the brake light to come on.

When this current issue is all fixed, that thin rod that connects to the rear brake switch, will need to be re-bent, back to the original shape.

ScottOiler.jpg ScottOiler again.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ermmmm ....... dette - that chain looks like - kinda "gone" ....................

Darn, if it's not one thing it's another..... TWilight, did my chain look bad when I got the ScottOiler? I haven't really put that many miles on it since. :confused:
 

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The rear sprocket looks like it’s about 50% shot as well - and as your front sprocket goes round three times for every revolution of the rear ………….

Twilight is going to rip into me for saying this – but are you sure your Scottoiler is working correctly ?
 

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Darn, if it's not one thing it's another..... TWilight, did my chain look bad when I got the ScottOiler? I haven't really put that many miles on it since. :confused:
Wait until you get some input from the others - I could be wrong - just following my instincts here (but that just doesn't look right) .............
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The rear sprocket looks like it’s about 50% shot as well - and as your front sprocket goes round three times for every revolution of the rear ………….

Twilight is going to rip into me for saying this – but are you sure your Scottoiler is working correctly ?
Well, I know there is oil being slung because I just cleaned the rear wheel and some other areas, there is definitely oil on the chain.
 

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With a good quality O or X ring chain the Scott oil thing would be obsolete! My personal opinion is I do not like this gadget at all. A wet chain attracts more dirt than is does any good for lubrication and I will bet there is oil being slung all over the rear of the bike all the time. Ringed chains come from the factory pre lubed internally and the only additional external lubrication that is necessary is for keeping the external parts from rusting.

If that bike was mine I would be spending a hundred bucks or a bit more for a good DID X ring chain, new front and rear sprockets and the gasket. While putting the parts on I would remove the oiler thing and be finished with cleaning off the entire rear of my bike of the oil slung every time I get off it. With a new chain and new sprockets you should be able to go a good 10,000 miles and leave your oil can at home. You will also greatly reduce the amount of chain adjustments you are now doing on that BS stock POS! Would you like me to tell you how I really feel?

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That chain is not stock, after the stock chain jumped off the sprocket (3083 miles and adjusted many times) I put an "O" or "X" Ring chain on as you all recommended. I can't remember which without pulling my files. At that time I also put on a 47 tooth rear sprocket. I have been concerned with my front sprocket since I didn't replace it back then, I was told at the time that it still looked okay. Now, when I took that picture I did roll the bike back out of the garage just enough to get the sun working for me because the lighting in the garage is dim. So, the bike wasn't running and I do think there is slack in the chain but even according to the differing specs. in the Owner's Manual and the Service Manual I am within tolerance. I had the valves adjusted at the dealer about one thousand miles ago and they said they checked everything. The bike had to go back after that adjustment for them to tighten the valve locking screw so maybe the tech that checked everything just wasn't that good of a mechanic. It might be time for me to take it elsewhere for a good check-up.
 

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One thing you can (should) try is get the back wheel up off the ground and spin the back wheel to see if there is any resistance or binding. Also spin in backwards. If there is a binding or clicking when spinning backwards you're beyond where you should be with the sprockets. If you look at your photo you can see a slight "hooking" of the teeth. This will cause binding when rotated in the reverse direction.

Also, could those kinked links be near the master link? Many times people just mash on the link side to get the clip on and that crushes the "O" rings. You should use a chain break tool and push the roller pins through, into the side link and adjust such that you can get the clip on without mashing the "O" rings.

While this chain may contribute to the problem I would surmise that it isn't the main issue. If you smelled something hot and burning I would still say the brakes need an inspection.
 
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