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Discussion Starter #1
105 dB Nikko horn upgrade I mentioned when hijacking thal13's dual monster horn thread. Sorry, Thal.



The horn is common to a lot of Jap bikes in the last 10-15 years, Kawasaki version of it shown on the left, TW on the right. Ours came from old EX500 Ninjas, but Yamaha, Honda and others use similar horns rated from 2-2.5 amps and 105 dB.



Don't try to get away with running anything larger without a relay. Our bikes are only wired to have a 10 amp main fuse and most of that capacity is gobbled up by your headlight, running lights and ignition, with very little reserve. It would be a bit unhandy to have your bike quit running in a situation where you had just sounded your horn. Nuff said.



The horn has a bigger stud on the back than ours, and a wider, beefier mounting arm. I ground the mounting arm to be a close fit in the TW frame slot.



 

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Ironically, I went the other way. My Kawasaki Vulcan 500 horn stopped working and just for grins, I tried the horn off of my TW parts bike; it worked; I beep away ineffectively; and dont really use the horn very much anyway because folks in New Mexico drive like they want no matter what you do or signal to them. I figure it adds a bit of minimalist technology to my street bike. Its a counter movement. Tom
 

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Funny, peruano. While I believe in loud horns on all my vehicles, I hardly ever use them. I prefer defensive driving and riding to noise.
 

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I too wanted to be able to 'talk' to the cars, so I devised a way to mount a high/low pair of Hella horns onto the stock horn tab [I did not want to mount them on the forks.]



I cut a semi-circle out of one arm of a 5" piece of aluminum 1/8" thick angle iron so it would wrap around the vertical frame tub and then bolted the two horn to the vertical arm of the angle iron.











The new horns are well protected within the normal perameters of the frame and are VERY loud. So far, I find I am using them more often to signal my riding buddy than cars, but.... you never can tell.



John



Edit: Lizrdbrth's comments just below are certainly valid! I neglected to mention that I used the relay that came with the horns to make a direct supply connection to the battery to isolate the high draw from the rest of the system. Removing the gas tank [a very easy step] makes installation and wiring runs very easy, too.
 

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I'm glad for the additional info. Thanks, bend42 for the pics! Saved to my phone- it's exactly the solution im looking for to mount my fiamm highway blasters, and I happen to have that exact aluminum stock collecting dust in the shop. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i put a fiamm hk9 on mine. it's better than stock, mounts right up, and requires nothing additional. they are around 15 bucks shipped.


HK9's draw 5 amps and most single high-dB horns draw about the same, so naturally they draw about 10 or more amps in pairs.



Be careful when choosing a horn (or any other accessory) to run on unstored capacity. The "sound horn, kill bike" scenario becomes more likely. Newer bikes can deal with this better than the older bikes, but only to a point.



I really hate it when folks overcomplicate what appears to be a simple subject, but a simple thing like adding a horn can mess you up, so here goes:



We all have the same bike, but one of 3 possible charging systems.



'87's are marginal. I'd be very wary of increasing the amperage/wattage of any component, but this is a matter of output. They just can't keep up, and the seperate lighting coil is pretty much maxed out at 35 watts. Fry anything in the left sidecover of an '87 and yer skrewt for good unless you can find used parts.



'88-00 bikes have better output, but only a 10 amp main fuse because that's what the wire size dictates. Add too large of a horn (or headlight bulb, heated grips etc.) and turn signal on / step on the brake/ sound 5 amp horn/ blow fuse/ lose power/ kiss car/die nice.



'01-present bikes have higher output, but carry a slightly greater load than their predecessors due to the higher wattage headlight, so some of that additional capacity is lost to the headlight. They have a 20 amp main fuse, which theoretically means you could run twice the stuff, no?



Sorta, but this is where things become complicated. Yamaha increased the output, but not the wire size. No individual wire can handle more than 10 amps and this leaves out most dual horn setups out without a relay off the battery.



So let's say that with a reasonable buffer you have 8 amps available for accessories before you pop the 20 amp fuse on a newer bike. Again, not enough left over for dual horns without a relay (see "die nice" scenario) You can run a single 5 amp horn without risk, but then you only have 3 amps left to play with, so your horn choice has seriously impacted how much of your groovy extra output you bought the late model bike for in the first place is available for other stuff. Make sure you really wanna wake up the dead or go conservative.



Use a relay for an intermittent item like a horn and they essentially are no longer part of this equation.
 

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Horn broken...watch for finger!




This horn thread has some good useful information for anyone wanting to change or upgrade, which I too have learned something.



Having said this, I personally am a little closer to xdac when it comes to using the horn, if at all. My thoughts, which admittidly do not add much to overall horn operation.



1) motorcycle horn is a M/C screaming just prior too impact.

2) similar to xdac, normally, my horn use is to gain the attention of said perpetrator(s), who are invading my comfort zone, whereby allowing me to brush up on my "sign language skills". This may or may not invite further "sign language dialogue" with others.
I can get mad once-in-a-while at other bad drivers! Just having some fun!
 

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I think a motorcyclist with road rage is a statistic waiting to be tabulated.
 

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ok, going to be a dumb Q i know but assuming adding a single lourder horn to my 2007tw is best done via a relay from the battery for reasons stated above,,.....ummm how do i do this!!??



i have searched but only info on me needing to do it so i dont fry the bike, but not how....



any help appreciated



craig
 

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Due to the momentary nature of horn usage you probably won't fry anything just replacing the horn. However, excess resistance from the undersized wire will limit the voltage at the horn, and the horn may not be as loud as it should. Replacing the stock horn with a relay to switch heavier gauge wire to feed the horn often makes a major improvement in decibels.



Easiest schematic ever for wiring relays: http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm
 

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Bend42, I like dual horns as well. As likely I create as many problems as I solve, when I see your set-up, first thing that came to mind is reduced air-flow to the cylinder head. Just a thought, and as well, only my opinion. Gerry
 

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Bend42, I like dual horns as well. As likely I create as many problems as I solve, when I see your set-up, first thing that came to mind is reduced air-flow to the cylinder head. Just a thought, and as well, only my opinion. Gerry


Gerry



Thanks for noticing!! I did actually think about that when I installed the horns. One is in the same place as the stock horn, but a bit larger in diameter, and the other is an altogether new disturbance to airflow. [I am not sure whether either is a "blockage", tho both are certainly disturbances to the original setup.]



I have been monitoring oil color and consistency as a way to estimate if there is any effect, but this is very subjective at best. But so far — 1000+ miles in summertime, 90+° F, on mostly dirt, I can't yet see that it is a problem. But, time will tell.



Can you suggest any more objective measures to track whether the horns are blocking airflow?



Thanks, John
 

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Remote sensor for an electonic thermometer?
 

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Remote sensor for an electonic thermometer?


Qwerty



Perhaps I should rephrase my original question [the one you responded to]: Do you know of any more objective way to track whether the health of my engine is being negatively effected?



Perchance, is the engine simple and robust enough that one does not have to do precision monitoring, or is the potential disturbance of air flow with the horns sufficient to cause a problem?



A corollary to your reply: Do you know what temps should be registered at some good point for attaching a remote sensor, and what temps would indicate that some damage may be occurring?



Parenthetically, I was attracted to the TW for its general simplicity and bullet-proofness. I don't really want to 'complexify' my life by riding around on a bike that requires a lot of attention to it vs. observing my surroundings. During my four decades as a horse packer, I chose my mounts for the same reason: that I could ride them as a treasured tool but not as the main project; the main project was exploring and observing and immersing myself in the wilderness, not managing a horse.



John
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Simply put, round stuff of that physical size and location will offer no measurable decrease in airflow. If anything it will cause more turbulance and convergence right where you want it most.



Don't sweat it.
 

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Simplest way to test for engine durability is to ride it until it quits.
 

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I'm already having electrical issues and can't seem to keep my battery charged while on a ride. If I upgrade the horn perhaps I'll need to look at something like this...




 
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