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Discussion Starter #1
I have an '89 TW and am suspicious the rectifier - regulator is gone. So I read up and found quite a few others

have replaced theirs--- but it may or may not have been the issue. I replaced the battery, but it 'may or may not

have been the issue' because the new one went dead also and refuses to stay charged. I have not found a way of testing

this with a voltmeter or jumping around it for fear of shorting. Stator reads good and wiring harness and contacts have

checked. I found a teeny drain in the side-stand switch and eliminated it-- my it is nice to not have it! Battery cables

have no continuity between each other. It starts well with kick starter. Where do we go?

Greybeard
 

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1. make sure you turn the ke off after a ride, the kill switch dosnt cut the bike power

2. look for a short, with the key off disconnect the + battery, put a ampmeter (10A) inline and let use know the result
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for responding, demarko69

I did 1) as I almost never use the kill switch except by mistake.

Since I wrote the first report, I rechecked the battery leads. I don't have an ampmeter,

but I do have a VOM. Key in locked, I am reading 4 ohms draw, key off- more than 4,

and key on--.6, which probably varies in the position of the crank. But I can't imagine

why locked and off should not read the same! Also,12 volts divided by 4 0hms= 3amps, and

I think that is a lot. Looks to me like I need to get into the main switch. What do you

think? It also likely trashed my battery, because it dropped 2 volts overnight disconnected.

Its down to 8 volts. Can these shorts fry my CDI?

Dave
 

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with the key off and the kill swirch off 3A is huge, its only a 7ahr battery

it is best if you get a ammeter. no the game begin. its called find the circut that has the current draw.

key off kill switch off

there are 2 ways to get the same result. unplug every connector. verify you are starting at 0 amps. plug in one circuit measure, if 0 plug in thr next and so on. Or measure 3 amp, remove a circut, measure- if 3 amp continue until you get a 0 reaading.



keep it simple at first. start with all the wires unde the seat and side panel. worry about the headlight pod latter.

I have found short to the frame under the seat where wires rub back and forth until the insulation is done. Also a handle bar short withe ther right break lever switch



lrt me know if you need more help
 

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Interrupt the red wire coming from the battery (the one with the fuse) at the connector.



Find a way to connect your VOM across the connection. You should read voltage there if you have a short with the key off. Key "OFF". manipulate the wiring harness and plug and unplug the connectors until something makes the voltage go away and Bob's yer uncle.



You can do this even with a less than optimal charge in the battery if need be, as long as you use the meter. A test light would ne easier but it will only add additional draw while you're futzing with the wiring, pulling your battery down quickly.



Get serious about this right from the git. Remove your tank, fairing and sidecovers and it will save you a bunch of time in the end.
 

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DO NOT PUT A VOM ACROSS THE FUSE!!! You'll fry your VOM. VOMs measure milliamps, not amps./ 1/1000 or 0.0001 amp. Puff od smoke. Instead, use a test light. Any old 12-volt light will do. Old taillight, turn light, headlight, etc. Start unplugging things until the light goes off. That's the circuit with problems.



12V/4ohm does not = 3 amp. 4 ohm is pretty much a direct short and will melt things in short order.
 

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I told the man to read voltage, not amps. Pay attention, compadre




I do this stuff for a living, and I've found more shorts than Paris Hilton. Dead shorts blow fuses, by definition.



The red wire is the Source of All Things Which Go Zap.



If you interupt it with a meter and find voltage present, you've got a short.



Using a test light will only deplete your battery at a faster rate while you're working. Use the meter.
 

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Do you think a beginner knows the difference between dial in the function, then connect, and connect, then dial in the function? You, the provider of pithy work-arounds, must be more careful with the "liability labels".



"DO NOT WRAP VOM LEADS AROUND THE NECK. Respiratory difficulties leading to death may result."
 

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I figger anyone who can extrapolate amps via ohms can operate the knob.



Just sayin'.



Since we're on the subject, you can use the knob as a switch to eliminate the battery drain while doing visuals, disconnecting terminals, etc. simply by turning the meter off. Unless of course the first click after "off" is amps.



You can also do it by continuity, but shorts like that often won't arc without current.
 

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DISCLAIMER- do not attempt to test you spark coil output with your tongue...



I like the current meter best.

1. my fluke is rated 10 amps rms an is fuse protected. I if pop a fuse I know we really got our chor cut out for us

2. lets say you have more than 1 short, broken / cracked wire insulation, a stuck power relay and ????. you find and fix the first one, and you meter goes from 3 amp draw to a 1.75 amp draw. that means you did a good job but keep going there more to this game of hid and seek.



I check with ALL my friends and they absolutely agree I am right.

My freids ME Myself and I are the smartest people I know and trust.
 

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Change my fork fluid while you have it..get off the computer and do it



I would make fun of qwerty but he knows too many big words and is very wel edumcated and i know id loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So, I found the white bundle of 3 from the stator was not clipped together, but I don't know if if carried juice because it fell apart

in my hand.

Also the starter relay has one side that only reads about half voltage. Should this be? The R and R/W change around, this is the R/W.

More in the daylight. I suspect my battery is toast. Any thoughts? Thanks much.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ah, Qwerty!

I have double tested fuses and light bulbs and radio tubes since I don't know when with a VOM.

Did I do something wrong?

My tach/dwell/ammeter probably didn't make it through a few yard sales prior to a few moves from which I am not yet unboxed.

But a few vo-tech books did, from a time when I thought it might help me to take some night courses because I liked to wire

the houses I was building. So here is my defense of my figures:

Ohm's Law says that I= E/R, and I is current in amps, E is pressure in volts, R is resistance in Ohms. So, if it is up to 12V

(and I wish it was), VOM set at Rx X 1 and reading 4, I get 3 amps, and that is pretty near a dead short all right.

And if you have an ampmeter which is reading 3, divide that into 12 volts to get 4 ohms. (R= E / I)

And if you have a voltmeter which is reading 12, it is because the others multiplied together made it like that.(E= I X R)

But, I just want to ride........
 

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Sorry, I can't read your autobiohraphy since you have yet to publish it. Add the fact that most people haven't a clue, fry their VOM, then blame me for their ignorance, and I hope you can see where I'm coming from. If you where as smart as you claim, why'd you ask in the first place?




Anywho, I hope your motorbike is all better now?
 

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you are both correct. Just like torque is measured and then HP is calculated the a same is true with a digital test meter. Voltage is measured and depending on the quality of the meter is is displayed as Peak or RMS value. Current, with a digital meter actually measure the voltage drop across and internal 'calibrated' shunt resistor and the converts to the amrprage value

Now some of the old analog VOM that use a jeweled movement with a very sensitive spring can be sent the to low orbit with an amp
 

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Sorry, I can't read your autobiohraphy since you have yet to publish it. Add the fact that most people haven't a clue, fry their VOM, then blame me for their ignorance, and I hope you can see where I'm coming from. If you where as smart as you claim, why'd you ask in the first place?




Anywho, I hope your motorbike is all better now?


I dont think anybody has a ladder tall enough to SEE you on that high horse.
 

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Now some of the old analog VOM that use a jeweled movement with a very sensitive spring you can be sent the to low orbit with an amp


I'll give up my Simpson 260 when they pry it from my dead, cold hands




Besides, I need it keep my 8 track tape deck and Betamax working.
 
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