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Howdy all!

Glad to have found this place, and the wealth of knowledge on these cheeky little motorbikes.

Mine is currently bone stock! But, being long limbed, 6ft tall, and 175lbs that will soon be changing. I mostly use this thing for forest service roads and hopefully some single track once I get it ergonomically dialed in. That being said, it sometimes gets thrown around the city as well.

First plans: bar risers, taller bars, hand guards, wider footpegs, carb re-jetting, skid plates, racks, and addressing the front "suspension"

This bike is really a hoot to bomb around on and is amazing to explore the lovely PNW with.
 

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Hi Skinny, Make sure you do some searching regarding the bar risers and taller bars installation. There is a limit on how much higher you can go before the cables become too short. I am an inch shorter and the same weight as you and found the Pro Taper ATV High bars were a perfect fit with no need for additional risers or longer cables. Carb jetting all depends on the typical elevation you are riding in. My plan is to never fix anything that is not already broken or functioning correctly. Some here toss a lot of time and money into rejetting, Shimming the needle, changing the exhaust and messing with the sprocket gearing for not much improvement or very little in the grand scheme of the TWs limitations. It is a great little mule but not much can be done to make it into a racer. I would put my efforts into the front suspension and tire and getting the bars the correct height along with wider pegs, brush guards and the skids.
If the plan for the racks is to carry substantial weight then be careful which rear rack you go with and consider a tougher rear spring on the shock. Pro Cycle has all this stuff. The rear subframe is Okay up to around 20 pounds on a rack and heavier capacity has to be accomplished with racks that attach elsewhere.
There are a few favorites such as Cycle Rack, Man Rack and Happy Trails so just pick wisely so you get it right the first time. I never recommend any racks that rely solely on the rear subframe support unless all you are carrying is a 6 pack or gallon of milk or fuel.

GaryL
 

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The Carbon River Road, the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie, the Mountain Loop Highway, Cascade Creek Road are all fun in good weather...
 

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Welcome to the show. Your journey toward the Darkside has begun.
Go Hawks! Go M's.
 

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Welcome welcome! Enjoy the ride!

Note: Have fun working on it, but I agree with GaryL's reco on focusing primarily on the ergonomics for the time being. Then wait for the other stuff once you've ridden all the different places you plan on going. I think I started mine a little too early. It's running decent, but I am now doing a a bit of back/forth to get it perfectly dialed in with jetting, exhaust, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks all!

Hi Skinny, Make sure you do some searching regarding the bar risers and taller bars installation. There is a limit on how much higher you can go before the cables become too short. I am an inch shorter and the same weight as you and found the Pro Taper ATV High bars were a perfect fit with no need for additional risers or longer cables. Carb jetting all depends on the typical elevation you are riding in. My plan is to never fix anything that is not already broken or functioning correctly. Some here toss a lot of time and money into rejetting, Shimming the needle, changing the exhaust and messing with the sprocket gearing for not much improvement or very little in the grand scheme of the TWs limitations. It is a great little mule but not much can be done to make it into a racer. I would put my efforts into the front suspension and tire and getting the bars the correct height along with wider pegs, brush guards and the skids.
If the plan for the racks is to carry substantial weight then be careful which rear rack you go with and consider a tougher rear spring on the shock. Pro Cycle has all this stuff. The rear subframe is Okay up to around 20 pounds on a rack and heavier capacity has to be accomplished with racks that attach elsewhere.
There are a few favorites such as Cycle Rack, Man Rack and Happy Trails so just pick wisely so you get it right the first time. I never recommend any racks that rely solely on the rear subframe support unless all you are carrying is a 6 pack or gallon of milk or fuel.

GaryL
Many thanks for the suggestions! I planned on increasing the length of the cables on the front but if I don't have to do so, that's even better. I'll check those bars out and hopefully be able to get away without the extra bits and bobs.

As for the carb jetting, oh yeah. It's a real can of worms, I'm not looking for much in the way of power, just ride-ability. I'm used to fiddling with old british iron and reading plugs so I reckon I can get it dialed in for a good all around experience. Hopefully.

Thank you for the heads up on the racks. I've got a 3 gal rotopax I'll end up mounting out back, and up front a small bag/cooler with lunch and beers. Likely won't do more than day trips, and if I do I'll have a vehicle to support. Already talking with a mate about running the length of the WABDR with him in his truck.
 

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One size richer on the pilot and main with a needle washer makes it start and run a lot better. Much less cold blooded.
Mine is the original so I just ordered jets for the BW200 but the later ones have a different carburetor.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Welcome,
Sign up on our group page as well. We are up to 50 Wa. members now.
Done and done!

One size richer on the pilot and main with a needle washer makes it start and run a lot better. Much less cold blooded.
Mine is the original so I just ordered jets for the BW200 but the later ones have a different carburetor.
Thanks for that little tip! I haven't checked plugs yet so see what might be a good next step. Still breaking the little monster in!
 
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