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Awesome man. For new engine break in, I change the oil and filter at 20, 100, 250, 600, and 1,000 miles. Since your bike almost certainly didn't get it at 20, I'd do it now.


Also I feel obligated to implore you to make sure that the new oil filter is exactly the same as what comes out, every time you change the oil - very important!
 

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Welcome to the forum!! As KJ says, change it now and often. You bike will love you for it and reward you with many many miles. If it has a paper filter in it, change it also, otherwise, you can clean the mesh ones.
 

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Sweet 2015. Somebody's loss is ALaskaFisherman's gain. Welcome.
 
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Excellent Score and Welcome from Maryland. Replace the chain with an O ring chain as soon as possible. I had to replace both sprockets and chain at 5000 miles.
 

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...... Replace the chain with an O ring chain as soon as possible. ......
Well, with only 48 miles on it, that is not absolutely necessary. I didn't replace my OEM chain until 1,000 miles and not the sprockets, and I had no problem....first set of sprockets lasted 11,000 front and 8,000 back (changed tooth count)....chain is still fine.

The real reason to replace the chain with an 0-ring is the almost complete lack of having to check and adjust the chain every 200 miles. My 0-ring chain has not been adjusted in 8,000 miles. If that is worth $75 to you, go for it!

What most of us would suggest for the very first upgrade is to change the front tire out to a Kenda or a Shinko right away if you do any dirt at all. It will save you many bruises and dents if you get over 15 mph in the dirt.....or if you ever go down a hill in the dirt.....or if you ever try to turn in the dirt.....or basically ever try to do any normal dirt riding. It ain't called the Death Wing for nothin' !:D

Welcome to the madness!
 

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Nice find. Hope.....no, not hope, KNOW you'll love it. Ride it.
 

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Oil changes are important during break in but not so much because the oil is contaminated. What you will find are lots of tiny metal particles left over from the milling process that end up gathering at the filter. Actually, you could drain the oil and clean the filter and then drain the old oil through a paper coffee filter and re use it if a quart of oil is an expense you wish to avoid. There is probably many, many miles left in the drained oil once you get those filings out of it and clean the filter or replace it. The stock filters usually are the good ones with a very fine metal screen mesh and easy to clean with kerosene and a paint brush and worth re using. Most important is the filter absolutely must have 4 holes rather than some that we have seen that have only 2 holes on the inner face.

For break in I suggest that you do not run it at constant high revs and do not get the engine real hot while just poking along. Vary the RPMs a lot and keep it under 50 MPH for the first 200-300 miles and then run the snot out of it all you want. Some here think regular dino oil is best for the break in period and I won't debate this wives tale. Once you feel the engine is broken in I prefer to use full synthetic oil such as Mobil 4T racing for motorcycles with wet clutches. It just flows much better in very cold conditions and handles heat a lot better. The enemy as I see it with these single cylinder motors is heat because it is air cooled and piss poor gas if you have to use E10 with ethanol. If E10 is all you can get then buy a can of Seafoam or Lucas fuel conditioner and add an ounce or two to every tank. As already mentioned, the stock chain is fine for a while but you will be adjusting it all the time while a good O or X ring chain will pay for itself by not requiring the constant adjusting, cleaning and oiling. Dump the stock front tire ASAP because they do tend to wash out in the dirt real easy, The Shinko, Kenda and a few others are a much better choice on just about all surfaces. If you are driving on mostly paved roads then the stock Bridgestone is OK and they do last pretty good. The rear Bridgestone is about the best you can find unless you want to go with a real aggressive but hard to mount ATV tire such as a Duro and a few others that can be mounted although they are a bear to get on. Lots of threads here on that issue but it all depends upon how serious you are in off road riding. When I think about Alaska I suspect lots of mud and some nasty trail riding in which case the super aggressive tires might be just the ticket for you. The stock rear is a very good all around tire and hard to beat on the TW.

Good luck, very sweet looking bike and should be a complete blast up there.

GaryL
 

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Great write up Gary.:D
 

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I just picked up a used Tw200 with 48 miles on it, so sweet. I have been reading this forum for awhile and someone suggested changing the oil at 50 miles, does this still hold true for the 2015 models as well?
Don't believe all you read on the INternet or this forum....having said that, changing the oil at 50, 300, 600, and a thousand can't hurt....but if you don't change oil and clean filter at 20 miles, your TW ain't going to die...just sayin':cool:
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you for all of the kind responses, you mentioned the Shinko, Kenda front tire can you suggest a model that will perform good on the highway and good on dirt as I really want to keep the dents to a minimum.
 

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Shinko 244 or 241 or Kenda 270. I think these are rated at 50% street and 50% off road.
 
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Most dirt tires perform pretty good on pavement. They just don't last real long, at least where you'll notice it in the dirt. I have the Duro Power Grip on the back and a Pirelli MT21 on the front and I can heal this baby over on dry pavement. Pretty skinny chicken strips. The thing is I can see already see that I'm getting some flats and rounded knobs down the center from too many trips to the grocery store.
Anyway welcome to the forum and hope you enjoy yours as much as I enjoy mine.

new tires 002.JPG

new tires 003.JPG
 
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