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Discussion Starter #1
If I were panning for gold and this was gold I’d be pretty happy. Since it is not gold, I’m just wondering if this is the norm for first oil change. 323 miles. Kinda glad I didn’t wait until the recommended 600 miles. Also, the rubber material on the stock filter came off with the cover and other side stuck to motor. Going to do valves this weekend. Thanks. TTS
 

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Not the kind of gold I'd be panning for, but glad you made that discovery earlier than later. Never understood why folks "wait" to change oil on low mile bikes that are years old.
 

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HaHa, Good one.
 

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Perfectly normal, as is the rubber sticking to the metal the first time. Just put it back on and keep re-using it. It's caused by putting a totally dry filter into a totally dry housing.
Change oil and clean filter again at 800 and 1,500 at which you can go to full synthetic. Your clutch and gearbox will improve quite a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Happy to hear it is normal and I didn’t get a lemon.
I’ve never reused oil filters. I put in new filter. You can see it in the background of the pic.
How does one go about cleaning it? Just back washing with water and letting it dry?
TTS
 

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Most of what you see on that filter is sealant from where the case halves were stuck together. It oozes out and when the motor is first run, it comes off and is caught in the filter. I see no reason from that picture why an early oil change was needed either. It's not like the stuff can now do any harm; the filter did it's job! And there's still lots of filter exposed, so no worry about clogged filter and poor oil flow.
 

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Yeah, I was horrified at my 100 mile oil change! I had to go to this forum and do a search to find out if this was okay. Turns out it is perfectly normal on a tw. I have a Chinese bike also. I have changed the oil several times on it and never a speck of debris. Go figure....
 

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As SkiPro stated once any debris that is collected by the filters it is not going anywhere. It is trapped and thus effectively taken out of oil circulation and the equation of concern over engine health. In a lot of unrelated filtering applications the worst filter efficiency occurs with clean filters and then gradually improves as a bit of filter cake develops and captures particles smaller than the filter pore size. Our TWs never develop a filter cake though.:p
Even still the 20 micron or so sized particles that tend to match the engine bearing tolerances have a low capture rate on the mesh filters. Frequent oil changes can flush these fine particulates out.
 

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Get yourself a KN143 filter....more pleats to catch more crap! I believe HiFlo makes an HF143 as well.

When I bought my first NEW bike, I broke it in using the Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power method and it served me well.
It is a point for debate, for sure...but the logic is sound...your call.

Most important bit of information in there is to change your oil after the first 20 miles; that's when the majority of the "wear" occurs and you want to get as much of that crap out of the engine as possible.
Then, change it again after 100 miles...then 500...then follow the manufacturer's recommendations, or your own instincts.
Use dyno oil during break-in instead of synthetic...NOT because it is "too slippery for break-in" but because it is so darn expensive. After 500 miles, consider your engine "broken in" and drive it as you would usually.

The following oil change can be synthetic...and I would recommend using a high-quality motorcycle-specific brand...but that's a whole other argument!
 
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