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Discussion Starter #1
Here are the part numbers for the TW200 ignition switch:

1987-2000 YAMAHA TW200 TW 200 IGNITION SWITCH MAIN KEY LOCK 2GK-82501-01-00
2001-2011 YAMAHA TW200 TW 200 IGNITION SWITCH MAIN KEY LOCK 5LB-82501-01-00

The newer switch is somewhat cheaper than the older model switch (< $50 cheaper.)

Does anyone know what changes were made to the switch and can I use the newer model switch on an older (1995) TW?

Anyone have a used one for sale?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Leben... I do see that the older model switch has a 3-pin connector with an additional pigtail wire. The newer model switch has a 4-pin connector with no pigtail wire. I'm thinking that the physical switch would work and that I would need to splice the wiring to make it work.
 

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i think you could swap the bottoms over from barrel to barrel that way you wouldn't have to cut any wires, i did try to splice the wires from old to new but cannot remember just now what wire was what, i will have a look tomorrow
also the newer models connect under the seat ..old one behind the headlight cowel
 

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Here is the function of the two switches. Sorry for the bad quality, but as you can see, the function is definitely different, unless I'm not understanding it right. The first diagram is for the 1987-2000, and the second is the new, current style.

B = black
R = red
Br = brown
R/W = red/white
B/W = black/white
L/Y = blue/yellow
L/B = blue/black




 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi Zack... I noticed the difference in function also via the wiring diagrams by ValorSolo here http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-help/9881-colored-wiring-diagram-3.html#post129360.

The wiring images that you provided... were they out of an official service manual or were they from ValorSolo's thread. The reason I'm asking is to figure out if there was actually a functional change, or if possibly ValorSolo made a slight mistake when drafting the diagrams.
 

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Hey supachip1... swapping out the bottoms is a most excellent idea! I never thought of that, but it is certainly possible to take the switch base off (I already did it to clean out some corrosion. I'm guessing that the mounting holes are in the same location (hoping is more like it), and then the bases should be able to swap and no rewire needed!
 

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the ignitions are physically the same size n shape..just the wiring is different..so if you swap both the bottom part with the wires soldered onto and the plastic connection part that is attached to the bottom of the key barrel then it should work…
 
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