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Discussion Starter #1
I'm gliding in those few feet to a stop. While I look one way, then the other, I shift down once more (believing myself to be in 2nd gear). As I start to move, the engine over revs, I look down to see the bike is in neutral. No problem, back off the throttle clutch and shift down again. Then this begins to go on until finally I kick the shifter and 1st gear goes clunk and finally we go on our merry way.

It has happened since I got the bike and it happens often enough that I'm beginning to be both worry and frustrated.

I'm willing to entertain all suggests, comments and advice. Even to ones that tell me I'm and ass and I don't know what I'm doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Banshee, I am not going to tell you that you are an ass, and don't know what you are doing. That is NOT what you need to hear right now.

Let's get this fixed:

What YEAR is the bike, and how many MILES are on it ? (People, "I" need that specific information for EVERY post where we try to help someone fix a problem)

Have you been the original owner of the bike?

Is the bike still under warranty ?

When was the last time you changed the OIL and cleaned the FILTER on the engine ?

Is your GearShift lever bent at all, like from a fall ?

Does it have anything...at all...to do with the boots or shoes you were wearing ?

Is the Clutch Actuator Arm Return Spring located in the correct position ? This has been a problem on some later bikes...even mine.

Is the Clutch cable adjusted correctly ?

What TYPE and BRAND and WEIGHT of oil are you using in the engine ?

Please know, we all want to help you. The answers to the questions I have poised above, will help us...help you.
Okay, here we go:

The bike is a 2015 TW200 with less than 80 miles on it. I am the original owner and the bike is under warranty. The oil and filter is whatever the factory put in. Now, bent gear shift, I don't, I'd Have go look. I don't believe it to be boots as it has happened when I've worn my ropers or my Walmart "hiking" boots. I believe it was you who suggested the clutch return spring, at that time checked it against a picture in the owners manual. I now have a service manual; I'll check it again, as well as the clutch adjustment. Oil would be factory recommended.

There you have it, Twilight, I believe I've answered everything correctly (this is a test, right - I get a gold star, ya)
 

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What's the oil level?

First of all that bike is barely even broken in, so don't be surprised if this goes away on it's own.

Now, go stand the bike up straight and look at the viewport on the right side of the motor. Make sure the oil level is right between the two lines. If it's too low or too high it will affect your shifting.

If you change it, try some Mobil 1 4T Racing 10w-40. Real nice shifts with that oil.
 

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Still under warranty and you don't fix a dam thing! Take it back and demand, I said DEMAND that they get it right!

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #6
rbm - I'll say guilty as charged. I'll release the clutch between 3rd and 4th, but disengage and go 3rd to 2nd and at the stop sign 2nd to 1st.

Twilight - Took a new look at things. Shifter is not bent. The clutch lever has the correct freeplay. However, when I got to the clutch return spring, the push lever indicator is 1/8 +/- to the rear of the case embossed marker. From what you've already told me, that could be the root of a evil.

I believe Hoot and Montezuma live down in the southern tier. I up on the shores of Lake Erie
 

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Reference the question rbm asked. On my 2015, if I come to a stop and say I'm in 3rd gear try to downshift to first, mine almost always, but not every time hangs up either in 2nd or neutral similar to what you are describing. I can also say if I come to a stop in 2nd, sometimes, but not every time, the same thing, won't go into first or very easily. I did experience something similar, but not nearly as bad on my 2005. It's hard to describe, but if I start to let the clutch out and sometimes I feel it clunk a little. When this happens I can then usually shift it to neutral. Sometimes it won't go from neutral to first when holding in the clutch. When this happens, I let clutch out and pull the handle back in. Every time I have to do this it goes into 1st. (Make double darn sure you're in neutral though)!

Not all forum members have experienced what you are experiencing, but I'm betting there are quite a few others. And I would also suggest many members will agree that the transmission is finicky on the TW when downshifting to first. Without looking at your TW or riding it, I don't want to go out on a limb and say you don't have a problem, but I am suggesting it COULD be somewhat common.

I will have to agree with TWilight, if you think something is wrong and what advice we give from a distance doesn't solve it to your satisfaction, you need to take it to the dealer and have them look at it. They might tell you it's fine or they may find something wrong with it, but if what we give for advice isn't cutting it, please take it to the dealer, especially since it's under warranty!
 

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Yeah, I recommend using the clutch for every gear as well. I also also say give it a healthy blip, or rev, when going down the sequence, especially from second to first. Sometimes if I don't, it does get stuck in neutral on the way down, then I need to clutch again...like double clutching a truck.

The clutch spring check is a big one, make sure that it is hooked up.

When finished with break in, the Mobile 1 4T oil will make a big difference in shifting smoothness. GOOD LUCK!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
admiral,

Your first paragraph describes, almost to a tee, what is happening with my bike.

I will admit: I do not know this bike, its quirks and idiosyncrasies. All of you have been very helpful in walking me through a diagnostics sequence. Or, in your case, to say I'm not alone. I value everything being suggested to me, both here and in the re-gearing thread. Right now I feel the fool. I know I'm not mechanically inept. Hey - working with a friend (pilot, A&P w/ an IA), I did a complete TBO on a Continental C-65, then flew the airplane after word.

Oh, BTW, admiral, I spent 12 years in Driggs.
 

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Okay, here we go:

The bike is a 2015 TW200 with less than 80 miles on it. I am the original owner and the bike is under warranty. The oil and filter is whatever the factory put in. Now, bent gear shift, I don't, I'd Have go look. I don't believe it to be boots as it has happened when I've worn my ropers or my Walmart "hiking" boots. I believe it was you who suggested the clutch return spring, at that time checked it against a picture in the owners manual. I now have a service manual; I'll check it again, as well as the clutch adjustment. Oil would be factory recommended.

There you have it, Twilight, I believe I've answered everything correctly (this is a test, right - I get a gold star, ya)
You're frustrated. We get it.

The TW transmission, like those of many Japanese cycles, takes some time breaking in. And this one sometimes balks going into 1st. No, not more force; just something inside the case doesn't line up. This is true when going into N as well.

The way I've found to handle it is, shift to 2nd at a stop and then, use one foot to inch backwards while tapping the shifter, That seems to take some stress off. Then you can find N or 1 as you need.

The clutch has a funny feel but that's its design. It will get better. It shifts better with light power-shifting, that is, you put light pressure under the shifter then ease the clutch in about halfway/two-thirds, and it will snick in with a satisfying snap. If you get a jerk in the driveline you weren't giving it enough clutch. Make the clutch and shift motion all at the same time - that's hard sometimes for a car driver who's used to first-clutch-then-shift sequence. But believe me, it works better.

Downshifting, I've found, it's better to just get on the clutch and then drop gears. Except when you get to N/1.

Stick with it. It takes getting used to - both you and the machine; you both need to break in to each other.
 

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I usually down shift the first couple of gears down to 3rd or so. I'm a little reluctant to go to first because when I do I usually chirp the rear tire. Even at stop you should be able to click through them with a little rocking forth and back.

If you want, take it back to the dealer to get it on record, but I think she just needs to be broke in a little. Try riding it on some trails where you have to do a lot of up and down shifting. Rod it a little bit here and there.
 

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What HE said ^^^^^^^ :D


I guess I have just been doing it right all this time, because I do release the clutch between each gear...as a natural way of shifting...up or down.

According to our latest stats and polls, there is a 93.14159 % chance that clutching correctly will remedy this issue. :eek:
This is good to remember; I should have added to it.

And that's true of my Honda CB as well. I can snatch two gears down, but more than that, it doesn't like it and gets stuck. Have to let the clutch out then and put a load on the transmission to make it all sync up again.

Not Yamaha's fault at all; and certainly not singular to the TW.
 

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admiral,

Your first paragraph describes, almost to a tee, what is happening with my bike.

I will admit: I do not know this bike, its quirks and idiosyncrasies. All of you have been very helpful in walking me through a diagnostics sequence. Or, in your case, to say I'm not alone. I value everything being suggested to me, both here and in the re-gearing thread. Right now I feel the fool. I know I'm not mechanically inept. Hey - working with a friend (pilot, A&P w/ an IA), I did a complete TBO on a Continental C-65, then flew the airplane after word.

Oh, BTW, admiral, I spent 12 years in Driggs.
Just as a point of reference:

Is this your first bike? Your first bike from a Japanese manufacturer?

Your first bike, maybe, with a manual gearbox - as opposed to, perhaps, a maxi-scooter?

No insult intended. I've driven nine-speeds in tractor-trailers but I used to have a Burgman 650 maxi-scooter. Thought I'd like living shiftless; and I did for a time. I'm just trying to figure out if you have a frame of reference on these quirks.
 

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I'm pretty new to motorcycles and can't claim to be an expert, but I shift down, clutch in, through 2nd to 1st as I roll to a stop. I'll add a couple of extra taps to make sure it's there before I have to drop my foot to the ground. My TW finds 1st gear more smoothly while I'm still rolling and provides the safety advantage of being ready to escape quickly if dodgy traffic behind me makes it necessary (which fortunately hasn't happened yet).
 

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I got as far as "glide to a stop" - and thought "I can see this coming" .......

You need to step the box down through each gear - come to a halt in first, and double tap it to make sure she's now in first, then try and move off (gently with the brake on) to make sure you're still in gear

Even doing it this way it's easy to mess up once in a while, but it will become less frequent as you get to know the box

There's nothing I enjoy more than sitting at the lights next to a Hyabusa crotch rocket while he gives my bike the once over with "that look" on his face - (Hyabusas don't like taking off from the lights in 4th)

It happens to us all ........
 

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You need to step the box down through each gear - come to a halt in first, and double tap it to make sure she's now in first, then try and move off (gently with the brake on) to make sure you're still in gear
Translated to Japanese and back again to English - you get this

"You need to step down box via the respective gear - to come to the first stop , double tap , it certainly moved from her the first , then try to order and ( gently on the brake ) please do make now you're out yet gear"

Bodes well for the version in the manual ........
 
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