There is a lot more joy to be found in a properly running stock TW than most people will credit, because so few are properly running. Changes often get made to already-sick bikes in an effort to correct a perceived lack of power which is then only magnified by things like bigger pipes, jetting and sprocket changes. This may not apply in your case, but even experienced folks sometimes jump the obvious.
The best advice given to newcomers to the TW on this site is often the least heeded. Get a manual, cover every inch of the bike to a gnat's butt, then ride the crud out of it before changing anything.
Even if you bought new, the likelihood that the dealer did what he was supposed to do when he charged you for setup is zilch. A day or two spent adjusting and setting up your bike by the book is time well spent.
Just my .02. The best baseline is to have a baseline. If everything's right you'll enjoy your 15/50 a lot more. On a bike this small if one thing is off you may hate it.
Totally agree. The first step is a complete tune and service, from the ground up. Check torque on every fastener, make sure everything is greased (especially the swingarm), all electric connections are clean and tight, etc. Don't assume for a seond a new bike will not have problems. This is true for all vehicles, not just TWs and not just motorcycles.
Second step, do an oil change to an oil specifically formulated for motorcycles with combined sumps and wet clutches. Do not assume Yamaha put such an oil in the bike from the factory or that the dealer used such an oil when setting up the bike or that the previous owner used such an oil.
Third, if you have a North American market model, is to replicate the state of carb tuning the rest of the world gets. This is a $5 fix to a government mandated environmentally friendly state of tune that creates a plethora of rideability complaints, from hard starting to surging to poor throttle response to excessive warm-up time to pre-ignition to engine overheating. this is not a TW-specific problem, but applies to every street-legal motorcycle with a carb built since 1980 or thereabouts.
Fourth, once the engine is broken in, about 2000 miles, switch to a high quality ester-based true synthetic oil formulated specifically for motorcycles with combined sumps and wet clutches. Switching Tdud from Valvoline 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil to Mobil 1 Racing 4T Motorcycle oil gained 3-4mpg, presumably due to reduced friction losses, which means more power passed to the primary drive.
Finally, the power-limiting component in the stock list of TW parts is the camshaft. The air filter and box, carb, head, valves, and exhaust will all flow significantly more air than the camshaft allows. Other than a limited set of extreme operating conditions, all you'll get from modifying other components is more noise. The engine is so under-cammed stock that a moderate performance grind has been shown to increase torque from idle to redline, with no other mods other than replicating the world market state of carb tuning, as shown by the dyno graphs posted on this site. Note that no other mod, from intake to exhaust, has the same rate of documented success.