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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
All handlebar-related hardware off, as well as the lower triple pinch bolts to get rid of the front reflectors. The very first screw I tried to remove from the left side control cluster stripped out, so I had to use some tiny vice grips to extract it. All of this hardware was replaced with 8.8 hardness allenhead bolts from the local Ace Hardware.
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Bars went on first, obviously. The got the handguards in position, and aligned the levers with them. For the ProTaper ATV Hi bars, I had to pull out just about every bit of slack in the brake line I could get. The little grommet in the clamp by the fork had to be popped out of place and that slack tightened up to get the required length. Grips go on easy lubricated with hairspray, which dries and makes them stick. I had to crack loose the brake banjo bolt just enough to rotate it to accommodate the handguard brackets. Aside from that, they went on beautifully with little effort.

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Plastic brushguards on, and turn signals attached. Routed the wiring to determine necessary cable length, wires cut, bullet connectors crimped on, and everything neatly shrink-tubed. Note to self: don’t forget to use red shrink tube on the red wires next time.

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Little bit of trial and error, and everything is hooked up. LEDs are nice and bright, but they don’t work as running lights like the factory indicators. Oh well.

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On an unrelated note, I rode the Harley for the first time in a few weeks. After getting used to the Tdub for the past week, the Milwaukee 8 nearly made me shit my pants pulling out of the driveway this morning.
 

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Regarding the brake line.... can also cut the zip-tie that holds it to the headlight bracket, which frees up a nice bit of play.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Regarding the brake line.... can also cut the zip-tie that holds it to the headlight bracket, which frees up a nice bit of play.
I was going to cut that ziptie, but I was able to slide it up a bit where it didn’t seem to affect how much slack there was. If I were to remove the bolt from the banjo fitting and reroute the cable through the headlight frame it could have given probably 2” more slack though, but I didn’t want to deal with brake fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Got the PowerMadd mirrors on this morning. Took some creative thinking, but I attached them without any drilling. I used one of the mounting bolt locations for the plastic brushguards, but got a 25mm bolt that stuck out about a quarter inch farther. It was an M5 instead of an M6 like the mirrors came with, so I used a small segment of nylon spacer to fill the gap. 3/8 OD, and ID drilled out to 13/64 (I think) to give a snug fit over the M5 bolt. Put on a paper washer to not scratch into the guards, spacer on, mirror on, then steel washer and nylon locknut. Second pic shows the components, along with the original bolt, and the unmodified spacer. While I was at it, I replaced the other silver brush guard fasteners with black ones just to match and look a little sleeker. Mirrors work great at this angle and give full visibility of the rear flank blind spots. Also there’s a peak of my work area 😅
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Next up are the skid plate, pegs, and shift lever!
 

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Your mirrors are interesting to me.... not trying to be funny, but can you actually see anything behind you? I do want to set like this, but I’m wondering....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Your mirrors are interesting to me.... not trying to be funny, but can you actually see anything behind you? I do want to set like this, but I’m wondering....
The mirrors themselves are round and convex, so they give a wide angle of view. Also, they are mounted on a sort of spinning angled plate, so as you rotate them, they offer different viewing angles. Mind you I am not just talking about how the entire mirror assemblies can rotate inward to put them away, but rather just the round mirror itself can spin. I have mine set up to show the blind spots for merging, and they work pretty well. Mounting them farther out to the sides would give increased visibility, and I may decide to do that some day, but for right now they work as needed and look good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Alright, I gotta ask;
1. How did you come up with your user name?
2. How did you decide on your avatar?
😂 😂 😂 the username is just an inside joke thing between my friend and I, but I think it works great as a name out of context. I make a lot of friends gaming online because of it. The avatar is supposed to be an animated image, but I guess this forum doesn't support .gif avatars. I don't have an explanation on why I choose it. I just love it. but I may change it because it doesn't work

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Attempted to install my Ricochet skid plate and realized it was supposed to come with a longer frame mounting bolt, which mine did not. Emailed customer support and got a prompt reply saying they will send me one in the morning.

Got my new chain in the mail, a D.I.D. VX Pro Street gold x-ring. The 132 link model was cheapest on eBay at 72 bones, so I’ll just cut it to length. Really curious about getting a 15t front sprocket though, I may do that first while the chain can accommodate it. I can always switch back to the 14 and cut another link off if I like. Advice on this wold be appreciated. I like the bottom end torque cause I’m a big guy, but I don’t like having to change gears in the middle of intersections. I frequently try to shift up into 4th gear only to realize I was already in 5th.

Hopefully on Sunday I can install the skid plate, pegs, shifter, seat pad, and battery tender pigtail. Dynojet kit and Uni air filter are in the mail. Then the only things left will be the rear mud flap delete, Shinko 241 front, DG exhaust, kickstarter kit, and some sort of round headlight. Too bad TrailTech discontinued the 8” race light, I used to have one on the KLR and it was my favorite farkle.
 

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I installed 15 tooth on mine as most of the riding is street. It does save a few hundred RPM's and does not seem to affect the bottom end that much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Got the IMS Super Stock pegs, IMS shifter, and Ricochet skid plate on today. The pegs were very stiff and spring did not work at first, so I disassembled and liberally applied some caliper grease and they worked just fine after. Tremendous upgrade. The shifter is just a nice touch, the head is on a spring and swivel like the pegs, so I don’t have to worry as much about it bending or breaking during a crash. The skid plate is really damn nice looking. Ricochet makes a great product. I am using a bolt that’s a little bit longer than ideal until I get the proper one in the mail some time next week. When I go to swap that bolt out, I will also stick on some adhesive-backed rubber sheeting to dampen the rattling.

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Tomorrow I should get my Dynojet kit, UNI air filter, and seat pad. Last night I ordered a rear subfender delete kit, high fender mount bracket, turn signal flasher relay, heavy duty clutch springs, NKG iridium spark plug, and a 15 tooth countershaft sprocket.

Still going to need to get a hydraulic jack, clutch basket holder, and some spring compressors before I will be able to put in the clutch springs and shock spring. I also need to figure out what to do with the front suspension. Eventually I will get around to the exhaust pipe, a round headlight, and a kickstarter kit, but those will probably be my last three mods, in that order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Side note, I now see my empty mirror post mounts as an opportunity for mounting something, but I can’t figure out what. Once the high fender mount is on, the old fender mounting points could be useful for some aux lighting or something as well.
 
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