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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Threw my back out at work last Friday, so I haven’t been able to do much lately. Finally able to be up enough to play around in the garage. Still waiting to recover more before I tear into the motor for the clutch springs and CS sprocket though..

I did put together a second tailbag to match the first one. Same design, but this one is to hold a 30oz MSR fuel bottle. Check Robmcc’s Tactical Tool Tube thread for my post (#25) about how I made it.

I also put together some ramps to get the bike up high enough to roll the scissor lift underneath. Ramps need to be a minimum of 3.5” tall to give enough clearance. I made them 3” at first (just two sections of 2x4) and it wasn’t high enough, so I just added a piece of fenceboard under and it works. I’m going to replace the two pieces of fenceboard with one long board with the ramps spaced appropriately. They kept wanting to slide around independently, so that should fix that.

My CNC aluminum oil drain plug arrived from China; looks nice and has a magnet to capture metal shavings. Glad to have that before I was able to drain the oil for the sprocket and springs. Hopefully I will be able to tackle those soon.

214928
214929

Plus bonus turtle sticker for +5 hp.
 

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I think you need to get some kind of Most Farkled New Bike award. It took me several years to get half the stuff of your build.
 

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I think you need to get some kind of Most Farkled New Bike award. It took me several years to get half the stuff of your build.
I get it completely, the part of the hobby that's almost as fun as riding itself. Appreciate the thread nipples. May take some anxiety away from others trying to do these mods themselves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
I think you need to get some kind of Most Farkled New Bike award. It took me several years to get half the stuff of your build.
Ha if anyone deserves that award it’s Ryan right above here!

I get it completely, the part of the hobby that's almost as fun as riding itself. Appreciate the thread nipples. May take some anxiety away from others trying to do these mods themselves.
The wrenching definitely is just as fun as the riding to me. And that was the hope, more documentation of procedure never hurts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Finally was able to install the 15 tooth front sprocket, new chain and clutch springs. Also got in an NGK Iridium spark plug and finally got my Shinko 241 mounted up front.

Sprocket was straight forward, but cutting the DID VX gold chain was a pain in the ass. I swear I had a motorcycle chain breaker somewhere in my tool box, but I only found a bicycle chain breaker. Ended up just grinding the riveted ends off a link but the outer plate was really stuck on there.. broke a flat head screwdriver trying to pry it off. With the 15/50 combo I needed I needed 127 links, 2 more links than sprocketcalculator.com said I would.. Good freaking thing I checked the old fashioned way before cutting. I started out with a 132 link chain and removed 5 links. Chain slack is at the tighter end of the spec range and I have the snail adjusters set exactly at 2.

Clutch springs were simple as can be, none of this even warranted photographing. Fancy magnetic oil drain plug on as well. Wish they came in colors other than blue.

Torquing the spark plug to 12ft-lbs per the manual was fucking scary. I feel like that was very excessive and was getting sick thinking about stripping out the threads in the head. It went on fine though. Old plug had a lot of black deposits so I rolled the pilot back half a turn so now it’s just at 2 turns out. Still seems fine, and I noticed it doesn’t gurgle down when snapping the throttle right after cold startups anymore.

I looked in to getting tire spoons, a bead breaker, bead buddy, all that jazz and then decided I’d rather leave it to the professionals. Local shop mounted and balanced for 35 bucks and I had the wheel back before I finished the other work.

Next week the fun modding starts again; I should be receiving my Manrack and tidy taillight kit. I will finally be able to get my fancy new tool tube and fuel bottle pack mounted up, new LED rear turn signals in, and throw on the signal flasher relay. Also coming are some fork tiedown loops. Hopefully these are thick enough to simply replace the high fender mount spacers.

Current glamour shot before the rack and fender eliminator go on:
214980
 

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2004 TW200, Jets 'n Shims, DGV2, Acerbis Guards, ProTaper KX, JNS LED BLK
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Lookin’ good! Q: Do you have links for your mag oil drain cap & the led signals you landed on? I’m hunting for both & happen to have a blue accent theme going. TIA!
 
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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Lookin’ good! Q: Do you have links for your mag oil drain cap & the led signals you landed on? I’m hunting for both & happen to have a blue accent theme going. TIA!
Here is the drain plug:
Shipping to CA took about 3 weeks.

There are a million different designs of LED signals out there, just gotta find some you like. Look for the ones that have 3 wires and can be used as running lights. And make sure the running lights are the appropriate color for your usage. I.e. white/amber for up front or red for the back.
 

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million different designs of LED signals out there, just gotta find some you like.
Yep, been searching for a while. These seem a cut above all the bottom of the barrel led’s, without breaking the bank: (I don’t own them)


EDIT/UPDATE: I did end up buying these fronts. The pair I got came with a set of resistors* (not mentioned in the listing) to prevent hyper-flashing/solid ON on the signal circuits. Wired them up just to test (GOOD); will install later.

They appear well made, brightness is acceptable, but didn't blow me away. I like the DRL/White + Signal/Amber dual function - a modern update, seamless transition when signals are switched on & they look aesthetically right on the TW.

*I didn't know the resistors were included, so bought a separate expensive set of aviation LED bayonett bulbs for the instrument indicators - these bulbs claimed to have a resistor built-in, and when tested with the signal circuit, indeed perform as if they do.

My intent was to avoid the extra wiring connections/points of failure when using external resistors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Those look SUPER nice, love the geometric shape of them.... I think I like those more than mine lol.

I went with this set:

I like the sequential lighting effect, not that it will make a whole lot of difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Got a good amount of work in today. Finally got the tidy taillight kit on, new rear turn signals with flashing red brake lights, front turn signals (to supplement the tiny ones on the handguards) that also function as white running lights, new dual horns, and installed some shorty adjustable brake and clutch levers.

The rear turn signals are pretty nice for Chinese eBay stuff. The indicators are sequential and have a nice effect, and the brake lights are very bright and strobe.
215354

215355
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 · (Edited)
The front turn signals are identical but have white running lights instead of red brake lights. Still trying to figure out why the hand guard LEDs are no longer flashing though, even after replacing the flasher relay with the LED unit from procycle. They used to work just fine before replacing the rear signals, now they just light up solid and kind of dim a bit instead of flash.

Tried uploading a gif but file size is too large.

Twin Hella horns are on, and they are incredibly loud. I made a simple harness for them with spade connectors, and the original horn wires just attach right on to a piggyback connector. No additional relays or excessive wiring.

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215358


Didn’t take pics of the levers cause it’s not really that impressive. They are just some eBay adjustable levers for a WR250R. Mod idea courtesy of Ski Pro.

I just realized I forgot to install the fork triple clamp strap rings, so I’ll do that tomorrow.

Took the bike out for a short ride, was nice as it’s been on the lift for several days. Can’t wait for my back to heal so I can go hit some more trails.
 

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The front turn signals are identical but have white running lights instead of red brake lights. Still trying to figure out why the hand guard LEDs are no longer flashing though, even after replacing the flasher relay with the LED unit from procycle. They used to work just fine before replacing the rear signals, now they just light up solid and kind of dim a bit instead of flash.

Tried uploading a gif but file size is too large.

Twin Hella horns are on, and they are incredibly loud. I made a simple harness for them with spade connectors, and the original horn wires just attach right on to a piggyback connector. No additional relays or excessive wiring.

View attachment 215357
View attachment 215358

Didn’t take pics of the levers cause it’s not really that impressive. They are just some eBay adjustable levers for a WR250R. Mod idea courtesy of Ski Pro.

I just realized I forgot to install the fork triple clamp strap rings, so I’ll do that tomorrow.

Took the bike out for a short ride, was nice as it’s been on the lift for several days. Can’t wait for my back to heal so I can go hit some more trails.
Got a good amount of work in today. Finally got the tidy taillight kit on, new rear turn signals with flashing red brake lights, front turn signals (to supplement the tiny ones on the handguards) that also function as white running lights, new dual horns, and installed some shorty adjustable brake and clutch levers.

The rear turn signals are pretty nice for Chinese eBay stuff. The indicators are sequential and have a nice effect, and the brake lights are very bright and strobe.
View attachment 215354
View attachment 215355
That should help in the safety department in traffic. Bonus, it could also be used for Christmas yard light show too. Getting someone to keep pressing the brakes all night might be an issue but if you have kids and they need punishment... :ROFLMAO:

Seriously, if I was behind you those lights would get my attention. Nice upgrade!
 
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They used to work just fine before replacing the rear signals, now they just light up solid and kind of dim a bit instead of flash.
You might need a pair of diode resistors for the front turn signal circuits, or, just do what I did - buy an Aero-Lites LED bayonette bulb to replace the incandescent signal indicator bulb. Pricey, but cleaner on the wiring side.

These specific bulbs contain a built-in diode, that serves the same function as the externally installed in-line resistor/diodes - prevent LED signal constant-on, or hyper-flash. They are also polarity agnostic (some LED bayonette's are polarity-specific & may not work in the TW).

Reco'd by forum member Nihil:


The only issue I have with them is mine actually illuminate dimmer than the OE bulbs, (only) in the turn signal indicator socket. Not sure why. In the Neutral or Hi-beam socket, they're 2-3x brighter than stock. I don't recommend these for use in the Hi-beam indicator socket. Way too bright - will blind you @ night.

 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
You might need a pair of diode resistors for the front turn signal circuits, or, just do what I did - buy an Aero-Lites LED bayonette bulb to replace the incandescent signal indicator bulb. Pricey, but cleaner on the wiring side.

These specific bulbs contain a built-in diode, that serves the same function as the externally installed in-line resistor/diodes - prevent LED signal constant-on, or hyper-flash. They are also polarity agnostic (some LED bayonette's are polarity-specific & may not work in the TW).

Reco'd by forum member Nihil:


The only issue I have with them is mine actually illuminate dimmer than the OE bulbs, (only) in the turn signal indicator socket. Not sure why. In the Neutral or Hi-beam socket, they're 2-3x brighter than stock. I don't recommend these for use in the Hi-beam indicator socket. Way too bright - will blind you @ night.

You know I think you hit the nail on the head, because I just took a look at the signal indicator to see how bright it was, and the indicator light on the dash isn’t even turning on anymore! So I bought a two pack of the white lights you recommended and I will replace the signal indicator and the neutral light, leaving the high beam original. Will update tomorrow with the results!
 

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Huzzah! The LED indicators fixed it! Thank you very much SEADUB. And your bike isn’t weird, my indicator light is also much more dim now, but the super bright neutral is a huge bonus!
View attachment 215442
Sweet! Looks great! Glad to help, the least I could do - as this forum & it’s members have helped me solve so many riddles, too.
 

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.......

Clutch springs were simple as can be, none of this even warranted photographing.
Did you need a clutch holder to just swap out the clutch springs? Did you notice an improvement in the clutch after installing the HD springs? I've got a set of the Barnett HD springs and am trying to decide if I want to just install them or also want to spring for the Barnett kevlar clutch as well. On a side note, I hooked up my Hella horns (inspired by you) last night to test....... I should've worn ear muffs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Did you need a clutch holder to just swap out the clutch springs? Did you notice an improvement in the clutch after installing the HD springs? I've got a set of the Barnett HD springs and am trying to decide if I want to just install them or also want to spring for the Barnett kevlar clutch as well. On a side note, I hooked up my Hella horns (inspired by you) last night to test....... I should've worn ear muffs.
You do not need a clutch holder for the springs. I honestly can’t tell a lot of difference, but I’ve seen a lot of people remark on the weak stock springs so I just did it just to do it.
 
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