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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m doing a naked mod on my TW and I’m replacing the dash with a small independent speedo and a separate array of 3 LED lights (neutral, high/low beam/turn indicator) and so far I’ve gotten the speedo to light up but the high/low indicator light won’t turn off but rather will dim when on low beams and get brighter when I turn on the high beams and for the life of me I can’t figure out why.
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What can you describe about the ground path?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What can you describe about the ground path?
The ground coming from the LED is connected to one of the grounds coming from the whole bunch of wires in the harness there are two black wires coming out. I’ve tried both and I even tried bypassing the wiring harness and running an external ground from the bike frame to the LED and nothing has worked. Sorry if this all sounds like I don’t know what I’m doing that’s because basically I don’t know what I’m doing.
 

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Is your wiring green = lo and yellow = hi?
Same problem if ground run back to battery negative, rather than frame?

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What year is your TW?

I did a pin out for the 6-pin connector on newer model TWs when I had an aftermarket speedo on mine:

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
2006

What year is your TW?

I did a pin out for the 6-pin connector on newer model TWs when I had an aftermarket speedo on mine:

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is your wiring green = lo and yellow = hi?
Same problem if ground run back to battery negative, rather than frame?

View attachment 229877
Yes, yellow, green and no matter where I attach the ground the brights indicator LED stays on. Again, dims when the low lights are on and brightens when the brights are on.
 

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Yes, yellow, green and no matter where I attach the ground the brights indicator LED stays on. Again, dims when the low lights are on and brightens when the brights are on.
Is it a light green or dark green cable? If it's a dark green for 2001 and newer, that's the positive connection for your right front and rear turn signal. The light green should be the low beam that runs directly to your headlight connector (if there is a connector, still).

Do you still have a plastic 6pin connector on your wiring harness? The solid black cable that goes into that connector is the negative (ground) for your high beam indicator. With the yellow cable coming off a Y (or 2-to-1) bullet connector from your headlight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes, those are the wires I'm working with. I have the positive wire from the high beam indicator LED bulb connected/spliced to the yellow wire that goes to the head light and the ground from the LED attached to the ground coming from the rear of the bike. This is how it should be but again it still stays on regardless of wether high or low beams are on. Got rid of the 6pin connector and wiring everything individually. I got the proper wiring diagram for my year bike and its in color which I've studied obsessively and can't figure out the issue but at least I'm learning a ton. The diode idea might work maybe.






Is your wiring green = lo and yellow = hi?
Same problem if ground run back to battery negative, rather than frame?

View attachment 229877
Yes, yellow, green and no matter where I attach the ground the indicator LED stays on. Again, dims when the low lights are on and brightens when the brights are on.
Is it a light green or dark green cable? If it's a dark green for 2001 and newer, that's the positive connection for your right front and rear turn signal. The light green should be the low beam that runs directly to your headlight connector (if there is a connector, still).

Do you still have a plastic 6pin connector on your wiring harness? The solid black cable that goes into that connector is the negative (ground) for your high beam indicator. With the yellow cable coming off a Y (or 2-to-1) bullet connector from your headlight.
 

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This doesn't make sense, are you using stock TW left hand controls? That high beam/low beam switch should stop the high beam circuit from being energized, your indicator light should go out and the high beams should be off on the headlight.

Earlier in your post you said you tried both black wires from the harness, one of those black wires is the meter (backlight) for your speedometer and the other goes to the high beam indicator, both come off the same leg, so doesn't matter which one you put where as long as they are on the ground side of the circuit.

I would check the internals/wiring on those left hand controls, (unless you've got exposed wire contact) that indicator and high beam should not be lit when that switch is in the low beam position.

Also, is your headlight functioning ok? High beams come on with the high beam switch position is selected? High beams go out when the switch is set to low?
 

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I am thinking that Blake is on the right track. Most hi/lo switches have an overlap when switching from lo to hi / hi to lo, so that headlamp does not go dark momentarily. Perhaps the switch is hanging up, but making poor contact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Everything is stock on the bike except for the headlight and the LED cluster and all seems to be working perfectly aside from the issue with the LED bulb not turning off when I switch to low beams. I’ll hopefully get a chance to work on it some more tonight and see if I can figure out the issue. What did you mean by exposed wire contact?

This doesn't make sense, are you using stock TW left hand controls? That high beam/low beam switch should stop the high beam circuit from being energized, your indicator light should go out and the high beams should be off on the headlight.

Earlier in your post you said you tried both black wires from the harness, one of those black wires is the meter (backlight) for your speedometer and the other goes to the high beam indicator, both come off the same leg, so doesn't matter which one you put where as long as they are on the ground side of the circuit.

I would check the internals/wiring on those left hand controls, (unless you've got exposed wire contact) that indicator and high beam should not be lit when that switch is in the low beam position.

Also, is your headlight functioning ok? High beams come on with the high beam switch position is selected? High beams go out when the switch is set to low?
 

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Everything is stock on the bike except for the headlight and the LED cluster and all seems to be working perfectly aside from the issue with the LED bulb not turning off when I switch to low beams. I’ll hopefully get a chance to work on it some more tonight and see if I can figure out the issue. What did you mean by exposed wire contact?
What I meant by exposed wire contact, is further down the harness (going from the front of the bike towards the battery) if there are any sections that have been tinkered with (cut/spliced/rerouted) or a section that may have been pinched or rubbed by the seat, fuel tank, panels, etc... you should check those wires (specifically the solid black ones) to ensure they haven't been rubbed or cut, exposing the copper interior, contact with other wires that are exposed can cause a variety of issues, including energizing a circuit that isn't supposed to be.

It's a cautionary check, not saying that's your issue, but if you have everything wired correctly and that indicator is lit up... if it was me, all the panels are coming off along with the fuel tank and I'm checking every inch of that harness and the ground contacts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The odd thing is that i tried connecting the positive wire from the dash indicator to the yellow wires that operate the high beams and then bypassed the ground wires that are stock on the bike and ran a new ground wire just for the indicator light and it still wouldn’t fix the issue. Next I’m going to try and rewire the hi/lo indicator light on the old/stock dash again just to see if the issue persists.

What I meant by exposed wire contact, is further down the harness (going from the front of the bike towards the battery) if there are any sections that have been tinkered with (cut/spliced/rerouted) or a section that may have been pinched or rubbed by the seat, fuel tank, panels, etc... you should check those wires (specifically the solid black ones) to ensure they haven't been rubbed or cut, exposing the copper interior, contact with other wires that are exposed can cause a variety of issues, including energizing a circuit that isn't supposed to be.

It's a cautionary check, not saying that's your issue, but if you have everything wired correctly and that indicator is lit up... if it was me, all the panels are coming off along with the fuel tank and I'm checking every inch of that harness and the ground contacts.
 

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The odd thing is that i tried connecting the positive wire from the dash indicator to the yellow wires that operate the high beams and then bypassed the ground wires that are stock on the bike and ran a new ground wire just for the indicator light and it still wouldn’t fix the issue. Next I’m going to try and rewire the hi/lo indicator light on the old/stock dash again just to see if the issue persists.
That's a good plan, once everything is hooked back up to stock, tag the cables with + and - and what it's plugging into, at least for your first go around with the bike wiring.

I hope this doesn't come off as condescending, I just read the part where you said you didn't know what you are doing, and I've been there, bit off way more than I could chew on a KZ 550 where someone did (what I like to call) "custom" wiring, split the harness at the battery and it was all downhill from there.

Your first couple times doing the dirty dance with motorcycle wiring, labels will be your best friend, so will a good set of alligator clip test sets and a multimeter. Just trying to give you a leg up on me spending two weeks looking an aweful lot like this...


This is pretty much what happened in my garage...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for taking the time to help out and not condescending at all. I’m aware of both my limitations and my ability to royally screw the wiring up. I have absolutely not problem having someone explain this shit to me like if I was a toddler with ADHD which I basically am when it comes to doing this. 😂

That's a good plan, once everything is hooked back up to stock, tag the cables with + and - and what it's plugging into, at least for your first go around with the bike wiring.

I hope this doesn't come off as condescending, I just read the part where you said you didn't know what you are doing, and I've been there, bit off way more than I could chew on a KZ 550 where someone did (what I like to call) "custom" wiring, split the harness at the battery and it was all downhill from there.

Your first couple times doing the dirty dance with motorcycle wiring, labels will be your best friend, so will a good set of alligator clip test sets and a multimeter. Just trying to give you a leg up on me spending two weeks looking an aweful lot like this...


This is pretty much what happened in my garage...
 
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