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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Looking for a little insight on an issue I had during a ride the other day:

I have a 2010 TW200 with less than 400 miles on it. The other day, I went for a trail/street ride which consisted of about thirty minutes of trail riding followed by driving home on an interstate highway (65MPH speed) for five miles and then the final leg of the ride was a secondary highway (55MPH speed). The bike did great in the woods and actually did better than I thought on the highway, although I was at WOT and in 5th gear for the entire five miles. The outside temp was about 70F. The problem occurred after I got off the interstate highway and was on the secondary highway and traveling approximately 35MPH for a few miles. The bike decided to die out on me as if I had hit the "kill switch" on the handle bar. I don't believe it was a fuel issue because I had over half a tank of gas left and the bike didn't sputter or surge like it was getting starved of gas. Likewise with airflow. It definitely felt like an electrical issue.

So, I pulled the bike to the side of the road and took a look to see if the spark plug wire was lose or if there was anything obvious I could determine. It should be noted that all the lights and horn worked, and the "illuminate when blown" fuses on the side panel appeared to be fine. Next I pulled the plug to see if it had shorted out or was burnt. The plug was golden brown and I rested it against a metal grounded surface and checked to make sure it was getting spark (which it was).

After waiting approximately 25 minutes, the bike started up again, sounded fine, and I proceeded to ride it down the road for about another mile. Again, same thing, it felt like the kill switch had been engaged. So this time, I called a buddy with a pickup truck to come get me. After waiting for him about 45 minutes and allowing the bike to sit, he arrived and we both looked at the bike again and decided to try starting it up and seeing how far I could go until it happened again. This time I was able to ride all the way home (about 5 miles at an average of 40MPH). No issues, and she starts right back up as always. I have yet to take it out for another ride but I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions as what could cause this.

Here are a few additional details to help diagnose the problem: The bike is pretty modified as to say there are racks, a beefed up skid plate, armor, etc. As for the electrical; all the lights are LED including the markers, headlight, tail light (and high mount brake light). I did install an LED flasher. The battery is stock, and the CDI hasn't been messed with. The tank is a Clarke TW200 tank with an inline fuel filter from ProCycle. The air filter is a K&N highflow (designed for the TW) and I have a slip on DG pipe. The carb has been rejetted, needle shimmed, and tuned to accommodate the modes. The carb also has the high vent mod (for water crossing). The bike idles and runs great aside from this isolated issue.

Let me know if you guys need any more info and as always, any help is much appreciated. Id just like to get this figured out before my next ride so I don't have to worry about her dyeing out on me in the woods this time. Thanks a bunch!
 

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Is the Clarke tank vent working properly? Did you notice if the fuel filter had gas in it when you were stalled out? I don't think that you would have spark if one of the switches had failed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The Clark tank cap has a Tusk billet cap and I believe it was working correctly. I didn't notice much gas in the filter (maybe 1/3 full) but the level didn't chance when I revved the engine.


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Discussion Starter #4
I haven't read anything about our bikes having thermal related issues with the electrical system. Can you share with me your experience? Thanks
 

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Since you have spark when you checked it, it comes back to fuel. If it does it again, start from the top down. Take the cap off, give it a minute and see if it Wii start. Next make sure fuel is getting through the pitcock. Continue through the fuel system. Like I mentioned earlier, if you have spark, it is not electrical. Good luck, you will get it.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys. I'm going to take it for a ride early next week and see if I can reproduce the problem. I'll report back.


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You might wish to confirm carb vent mods are open to atmosphere, not inadvertently closed shut.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fred, I didn't actually put the shut off valve on the bottom. Just a "Y" connector and a high vent under the tank with a weed whacker filter.


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Admiral and I think a like. Check the kick stand switch and also check the clutch lever switch. Behind the headlight there is a rats nest of wires that contain two rubber boot shields. This is where all the disconnects are for the various lights and switches. Make sure all those connectors are not corroded and are firmly pushed in and making a good connection. Sounds to me like you have a bad safety switch, a poor connection behind the headlight or a wire shorting out somewhere under the tank or in the electric panel. Also check the wires coming from the stator on the left side cover and going up to the battery. If you or someone changed a front sprocket and pinched those wires that could cause your problem.

Hope this helps.

GaryL
 

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Hey Ice Man, how are you doing with troubleshooting your problem. Should you find a solution please let us know. I have been spending some time on the XT225 forum and it seems that a few riders over there have had similar experience with erratic running/stalling that was attributed to thermal shorting of stator windings and no spark. Gerry
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey Ice Man, how are you doing with troubleshooting your problem. Should you find a solution please let us know. I have been spending some time on the XT225 forum and it seems that a few riders over there have had similar experience with erratic running/stalling that was attributed to thermal shorting of stator windings and no spark. Gerry
Gary, it ended up being my "On" position on my petcock being clogged. The "Reserve" position works fine. Must have been the new Clarke tank had some junk in it and clogged the internal filter. I feel a little stupid assuming it was an electrical issue, but to the best of my knowledge it was a fuel issue. Hope that helps.


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