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Greetings from Eagle River, Alaska! I've probably read enough articles, seen enough YouTube to make up my mind. But since I'm not a rider yet I have nothing better to do than write down some stuff.

I started thinking about getting a Rokon. I had one a few years back that was an older 2 stroke that I rebuilt. The thing was pretty amazing. There were some drawbacks. It was slow, loud, required a lot of maintenance. I probably should have kept it. But I usually have a toy for a short while. Get bored of it and sell it to buy another.

Anyway I check out Rokons site and am in shock the things are 8 grand. So there is no way I'm paying that kind of money for a Rokon. I can do it, but jeez I'd feel dumb. I dont know why that guy wants so much. You can about price every part out online or from the hardware store and I can't see more than 2k in parts sitting there

So now im looking at TW's. The one place I want this thing to work is snaking through the woods and over Muskeg. I probably would need to do that fat front tire mod. That looks like a pain. There is a bigwheel 350 for sale up here and I'm thinking of that. I dont really need the road legal feature. That being said I bet I would like it.

Well I guess I'll get back to videos and pics!

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Been in your country fighting fire quite a few times(Shot & Helitak)....the issue I see is the weight of either machine...pulling it over, under, or thru the dead/down, over grown shit...Just my .02 cents...

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Well I only have 2 spots in mind where I want to go through the woods. I think I would just cut a trail. What I'm planning is making a moose hunting trail, walking along trail, get moose, come back with TW and shuttle moose out. I'd keep both spots under 2 miles. Here is a google earth photo of one spot. Basically just creep along the edge of those open spots. The ground is kinda spongy and can get pretty wet. But in thinking all the ground sticks and bushes will act as sort of a snowshoe for the light TW and it wont sink in


 

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I would think the BigWheel 350 would be better for the moose hunt due to better inherent flotation. A TW could be big wheel modified like Alaskan resident and forum member TinyWheel200's. If reliable the BigWheel would be usuable as purchased. A stock TW might need some mods. Neither is really light and both would benefit from a moose hauling rack.
 

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I guess either bike would do the trick so I would look at parts availability. The BW350 was produced for four years 1985-1989 so parts may be hard to find especially in Alaska. TW parts are everywhere so my vote is for the TW
 

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The BW is hard to beat for that soft stuff like muskeg, I have one, love it (same engine as a tw mostly). Just stay off the sloppy stuff when it's not frozen..and a TW will be perfect. And yea, right, the Rokon prices are insane, make no sense. I'd buy one but I'd feel guilty and stupid..

A TW otherwise is a great choice. Uncle Randy up there has one and there are a few others, they are a great choice, low maintenance and very very reliable. An important thing up thatta way I would think.

Best if luck!


Greetings from Eagle River, Alaska! I've probably read enough articles, seen enough YouTube to make up my mind. But since I'm not a rider yet I have nothing better to do than write down some stuff.

I started thinking about getting a Rokon. I had one a few years back that was an older 2 stroke that I rebuilt. The thing was pretty amazing. There were some drawbacks. It was slow, loud, required a lot of maintenance. I probably should have kept it. But I usually have a toy for a short while. Get bored of it and sell it to buy another.

Anyway I check out Rokons site and am in shock the things are 8 grand. So there is no way I'm paying that kind of money for a Rokon. I can do it, but jeez I'd feel dumb. I dont know why that guy wants so much. You can about price every part out online or from the hardware store and I can't see more than 2k in parts sitting there

So now im looking at TW's. The one place I want this thing to work is snaking through the woods and over Muskeg. I probably would need to do that fat front tire mod. That looks like a pain. There is a bigwheel 350 for sale up here and I'm thinking of that. I dont really need the road legal feature. That being said I bet I would like it.

Well I guess I'll get back to videos and pics!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

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I'm a big Rokon fan too but I could never justify the price of a new one, and affordable used ones are more scarce than an honest politician. So I started searching for a used TW instead. I really wanted an older one but I ended up finding a 2017 with low miles and a few nice accessories. I just picked it up today and I can't wait to get out on the trails.
The paperwork that the seller provided shows that his dealer did the first service at about 500 miles. They pretty much just did an oil and filter change, lubed and adjusted the chain, and inspected everything else. What the paperwork didn't show was a valve adjustment. Shouldn't a first service have included a valve adjustment? It's got about 900 miles on it now. Should I bring it in for a valve check? Is there anything else that needs checking at this point?
I appreciate any input.
 

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I'm a big Rokon fan too but I could never justify the price of a new one, and affordable used ones are more scarce than an honest politician. So I started searching for a used TW instead. I really wanted an older one but I ended up finding a 2017 with low miles and a few nice accessories. I just picked it up today and I can't wait to get out on the trails.
The paperwork that the seller provided shows that his dealer did the first service at about 500 miles. They pretty much just did an oil and filter change, lubed and adjusted the chain, and inspected everything else. What the paperwork didn't show was a valve adjustment. Shouldn't a first service have included a valve adjustment? It's got about 900 miles on it now. Should I bring it in for a valve check? Is there anything else that needs checking at this point?
I appreciate any input.
I would have the valves checked or check them yourself, it's easy and good insurance. Mine were way loose out of the box at 500, your experience may vary but it's well worth the quick look.
 

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And congratulations on the new bike!
 

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Thanks! I'll download a service manual today and have a crack at checking the valves. The guy I bought it from paid $250 for the first service which, without a valve adjustment, is nothing more than an oil change and a chain lube.
 

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3000 miles is the listed valve service interval for TW200s.
 

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Check out this video from the TDubsKid. Haven't tried it myself yet, but he makes it look idiot proof.

Excellent book method of checking and adjusting the valves. T-Tubs Kid did mention not needing to remove the spark plug but aligning the timing marks are a lot easier if the plug is removed. Plus, it's easier to check if you are indeed at TDC.


Another way, and it's the way I do it, to make sure you are at TDC is to remove the cam sprocket cover and aligning the timing mark on the sprocket with the mark on the top of the opening as shown in my picture below. You will always be TDC.

Additionally, if you want to make sure your engines timing is correct, align the cam sprocket marks as mentioned and then remove the small flywheel access screw on the left side cover as shown in the video. The flywheel timing mark should be seen at the top (12 o'clock position) also as shown in the video.

If you use the cam sprocket method for ensuring TDC when completing a valve check, you can advance the engine using the cam bolt (it should be tight) instead of using the flywheel bolt. You'll find it's easy to muck up the screwdriver slot in both of those plastic covers on the side cover.

 

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3000 miles is the listed valve service interval for TW200s.
True, but I just checked mine at 600 miles on the (second) new 2018 and the exhaust was at .007 inches, just slightly out of spec. Intake was spot on in the middle, .003. I would highly recommend checking the clearances before 1,000 miles.
My 2010 was also a bit loose above spec at 800 miles. My first 2018 never got to 200 miles before the crash wrecked it, so I don't know what it might have been.
 
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