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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking forward to gathering with goats but I have motorcycle performance anxiety… my TW clutch doesn’t seem to slip but is engaging right at the end of the lever travel and is not easy to modulate as it works closer to a switch. I haven’t ridden other TWs so I don’t know what to expect as normal. On a steeper grade, trying to go slow up hill is difficult since the torque isn’t there to let the engine lug way down but the clutch seems awkward to control.

I know that is a subjective thing and maybe hard to answer but sound “normal“??
 

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Looking forward to gathering with goats but I have motorcycle performance anxiety… my TW clutch doesn’t seem to slip but is engaging right at the end of the lever travel and is not easy to modulate as it works closer to a switch. I haven’t ridden other TWs so I don’t know what to expect as normal. On a steeper grade, trying to go slow up hill is difficult since the torque isn’t there to let the engine lug way down but the clutch seems awkward to control.

I know that is a subjective thing and maybe hard to answer but sound “normal“??
Mine engages at the top of lever travel too. Looking forward to input from our awesome experienced Dubbers!
 

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Font Parallel Triangle Number Document
 

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Some free play is needed to avoid pressure on clutch pushrod..
Also needs to be fully engaged when lever is fully released, to avoid unintentional clutch slippage
 
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I don't remember the details on your goat but.
A new T-dub clutch is like an on off switch.....lol
It will get a little better as time goes on... 😋
mike from NC
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
On our WR250r, I put a lever with a different ratio which made the bike way more rideable off road. On the T-dub all I have to do is pull on the lever the slightest amount. I appreciate the input.
 

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Yes it's too late to start an oil discussion ....
Big Blake won't get a wink of sleep .. lol
 
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When my TW was new, I would start it in neutral, put it in gear and it would die as if clutch were engaged.
So I started it in gear and just took off.

From Jan 17, 2017:
"No issue with cold starts after the first oil change
Today, it idled for maybe 10 seconds before engaging first gear.
Not even synthetic: Castrol 20/50 4T oil "
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I actually thought that there may have been some “wrong oil” in the bike when I got it. I filled it with what works in my other bikes. Containing the power in this monster is a challenge. So far so good. I’d like more ability to modulate that power some so as to not loop it every time I let out the clutch! :love:
 

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You won't trick me into getting banned by starting an oil thread... PM sent
I am not worried about being banned, as I keep trying to wean myself off forums (my one addiction?).
Although I am down to two: This and TriumphRat
Need to be occupied while waiting for dealer to get in a XT250.
7 weeks since I sold my Street Twin...I need wind in my face...knees in the breeze...

I won't mention a brand, but this is going in the XT250 at the first oil change.
Bottle Liquid Bottle cap Fluid Wood
 

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I am not worried about being banned, as I keep trying to wean myself off forums (my one addiction?).
Although I am down to two: This and TriumphRat
Need to be occupied while waiting for dealer to get in a XT250.
7 weeks since I sold my Street Twin...I need wind in my face...knees in the breeze...

I won't mention a brand, but this is going in the XT250 at the first oil change.
View attachment 226223
You can't use Castrol, putting that stuff in your engine is sacrelige, might as well be dumping crisco in there.

There are so many better oil choices, but if you use yamalube, you're just a giant dummy!

There are much better options...

Forehead Chin Vision care Facial expression Smile
 

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You can't use Castrol, putting that stuff in your engine is sacrilege, might as well be dumping crisco in there.
There are so many better oil choices, but if you use Yamalube, you're just a giant dummy!
There are much better options...
Careful, you will get sucked into naming a brand you prefer!!
 
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