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The Triumph/Yamaha/Suzuki/Kawasaki dealer in Simi Valley prepped my 2012 Bonneville with Castrol pure synthetic and I never looked back; although I did run Castrol 20/50 4T dino oil in the TW and Motoul 7100 10W60 in the Moto Guzzi.

Have we thoroughly hijacked this thread?

No, it can't as it is about an oil solution, is it not!

It may not be winter (when oil threads are permitted) but I am bikeless and that is worse.
 

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. . . aaaand they're off!!!
No, I emptied my brain, I am done...someone younger can take over and it will be past my bedtime in an hour or two. The question is, how many posts will be added to this thread by dawn, tomorrow?
 

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I would guess that just about any decent oil made today is better then what
the average T-duber used back in 1987.......…..
But I pretty sure what ever you use is not as good as what I use. 😉
mike from NC
 

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So... All I have to do is post that I don't want to start an oil thread fiasco and it starts an oil thread fiasco???

This all sounds so familiar. I think I may be on the cusp of understanding women.


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Understanding a woman? You poor deluded fool! Don't push your luck on that and only use LiquiMoly 15-40 in the Dub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Thanks Xracer! Whil I haven’t owned a KLR I have and do spenT time on them. The KLR clutch is much more inline with what I consider normal clutch operation. I appreciate the input. The auto selection of threads on this forum has offered up a lot of reading. I’ll quit worrying but if I have time, I’ll inspect my clutch before the event on the 18th.
 

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2004 TW200, Jets 'n Shims, DGV2, Acerbis Guards, ProTaper KX, JNS LED BLK
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So... All I have to do is post that I don't want to start an oil thread fiasco and it starts an oil thread fiasco???

This all sounds so familiar. I think I may be on the cusp of understanding women.


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If you say so...

Forehead Eyebrow Mouth Jaw Gesture
 

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Thanks Xracer! Whil I haven’t owned a KLR I have and do spenT time on them. The KLR clutch is much more inline with what I consider normal clutch operation. I appreciate the input. The auto selection of threads on this forum has offered up a lot of reading. I’ll quit worrying but if I have time, I’ll inspect my clutch before the event on the 18th.
Yea that engagement zone is really narrow, I used to ride KDX 200s and it really took some getting used to the TW clutch, your assumptions and Xracers comments are accurate, you can get some stiffer clutch springs, while not some night and day difference, they make the clutch feel a little better over stock (you won't notice much in the lever but in the mechanical engagement). So short of some cable lube and lever adjustment, your clutch sounds relatively normal (as far as TWs are concerned).

Sorry for contributing to the oil derail ;)
 

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MOBIL 1 4T RACING 10W40!!!!!
Not wishing this thread to die, at least until I get a replacement bike, dare I state that is good oil?
And to support your thinking, I used Mobil 1-108A oil filters on my Triumph.
Oh no, did I just change this to an oil filter thread?!
 
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Reactions: Snow Fox

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On a serious note, I have no issue with any major brand. In the southwest, it needs to have a viscosity rating suitable for over 104F. Pick a brand, then continue with it, as I much prefer to not mix brands.
 
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Yea that engagement zone is really narrow, I used to ride KDX 200s and it really took some getting used to the TW clutch, your assumptions and Xracers comments are accurate, you can get some stiffer clutch springs, while not some night and day difference, they make the clutch feel a little better over stock (you won't notice much in the lever but in the mechanical engagement). So short of some cable lube and lever adjustment, your clutch sounds relatively normal (as far as TWs are concerned).

Sorry for contributing to the oil derail ;)
I should have done more searching before asking I suppose. i like having conversational technical discussions with experienced people so I wasn’t afraid to ask, particularly in this friendly group. The short “friction zone” of the clutch isn’t a virtue I like but being right near the end of travel of the clutch release makes me wonder how many more times I can use it until there would be no more and the clutch would slip. It isn’t slipping and the good suggestions regarding adjustments make logical sense to me. People suggesting I use a different oil makes me feel insecure in my abilities of logically expressing my question. I know I am not the best a expressing myself and am maybe not too smart but changing my brand of oil, really?
I am super appreciative of the helpful comments but maybe too new to really appreciate some of the humor I may be missing. I apologize.
 

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If your free play is within the spec of the Yamaha owner's manual (XT250 should be same as TW), there should be no worry for clutch slippage. If it disengaged without free play, I would be concerned that the clutch springs did not have full pressure on the plates. No worries re questions, as they are welcome and this is one of the most friendly M/C forums in existence.

If you feel it should engage sooner, make a 1/2 to 1 turn adjustment on the cable, per post 3
 

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I’ve not had your problem with the TW clutch but on my XT350 I had the opposite issue with the clutch engaging barely after I started letting out the clutch. When hot I couldn’t disengage the clutch and it would stall the engine. My solution that worked was I made the clutch cable adjustment down on by the case area. Now my clutch engagement is in the middle part when I let the clutch handle out. Maybe an adjustment there could help your situation.
 
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