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That dead zone highlighted is adjusted at the clutch itself. You need to remove the side cover to adjust that.
In principle, this free play of the actuator should be normal, or am I wrong (I have never disassembled it to this day)? another thing is that one wants to modify the behavior of this clutch to how it comes from the factory (with that one would seek to correct that the clutch is not so abrupt).

The other problem that was mentioned is that the clutch is activated very early or late and that may be a bad adjustment of the cable tension or what I said about the spring, in my opinion.
 

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This is what I was trying to convey when I wrote in post 47, "I did adjust my clutch free play on the push lever a bit when I installed my kick starter as well."
 

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This is what I was trying to convey when I wrote in post 47, "I did adjust my clutch free play on the push lever a bit when I installed my kick starter as well."
That's a great time to do so. I've always wondered why they don't put a screw cap on that side for clutch freeplay adjustment like the one on the other side for the bolt access and timing marks. If I have the time and remember, I just might modify my side cover so the clutch is adjustable there.
 

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To widen the clutch engagement zone you would need to change the lever ratio between the push lever and the clutch lever. Probably easier to weld in a 1" extension on the push lever arm and modify the cable mount to maintain the proper angle on the now extended arm.

Or convert to a hydraulic clutch.

Or just get used to this endearing characteristic of the TW and ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
I am certainly happy to get on this TW and enjoy any of its quirks. My bike is a 2004 which came from a university somewhere in Illinois and presumably used for rider training. While maintained, I don’t think it was cared for in the same way I would take care of a bike. I don’t want it to break on my while I’m supposed to be having fun on it. I had the problem of a valve adjuster coming loose and the valve clearance wasn’t something I thought I should check based on its performance. The intermediate owner said he changed oil before selling me the bike… too many unknowns. ”just because you’re paranoid doesn’t mean they are not out to get you.”
I pulled the cover last night. Pulled the plates, measured them and they are at 3mm which I think is same as new. One of the steels in half blue from heat but the plates don’t look worn. I’m cleaning stuff up to put it back together. I installed some new aftermarket plates because I already ordered them.
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I understand that what you are saying is that the actuator is moving in a "dead zone"


View attachment 226299
That dead zone highlighted is adjusted at the clutch itself. You need to remove the side cover to adjust that.
Adjust so free play ends (or dead zone ends) and the spring starts to compress (or active zone is entered) just as the pointer aligns with the mark that is cast into the case.

Coil spring Gas Auto part Metal Motor vehicle
 

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I am certainly happy to get on this TW and enjoy any of its quirks. My bike is a 2004 which came from a university somewhere in Illinois and presumably used for rider training. While maintained, I don’t think it was cared for in the same way I would take care of a bike. I don’t want it to break on my while I’m supposed to be having fun on it. I had the problem of a valve adjuster coming loose and the valve clearance wasn’t something I thought I should check based on its performance. The intermediate owner said he changed oil before selling me the bike… too many unknowns. ”just because you’re paranoid doesn’t mean they are not out to get you.”
I pulled the cover last night. Pulled the plates, measured them and they are at 3mm which I think is same as new. One of the steels in half blue from heat but the plates don’t look worn. I’m cleaning stuff up to put it back together. I installed some new aftermarket plates because I already ordered them.
View attachment 226356
Ohhhh my
Going through all the trouble to replace perfectly good clutch plates...
While not replacing the completely inadequate and totally unreliable clutch springs ???
You sir are a dare devil..... LOL
Remember to coat the case side of the gasket with synthetic grease putting it back together...
Be sure to use the one and only truly acceptable T-dub oil when done.....
Have a great time at the gathering ..... You will meet some fantastic people...
I will keep my fingers crossed for you, your clutch springs and chain ☺
mike from NC
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Workingman, I regret to not be able to meet you at the gathering. I’m happy your health is improving. Almost all my local riding buddies have come down with the ‘Rona. It sucks. I had it a couple months ago.

I started to make some preload spacers for the stock clutch springs it the clutch wasn’t slipping. There is no way I’ll forget to grease the gasket after all the work I just did scraping that stuff off there!

my mind is at ease just from knowing everything seems in good shape down there.

oh, and quit smoking please, I want to meet you at the next event!
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Adjust so free play ends (or dead zone ends) and the spring starts to compress (or active zone is entered) just as the pointer aligns with the mark that is cast into the case.

View attachment 226358
I couldn’t find that pointer until you posted that photo. I get it now! There are very weak springs but the bottom adjuster was set to have no slack at the pointer (not by me) so that may have been the whole problem.a fly could hit the clutch lever and move the indicator!
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my 06 tw had 600 miles on it when the clutch started slipping. the spring on the outside of the clutch case was instaled wrong from the factory maybe? had that "dead zone play", it could go either way so i changed it up and put new fiber plates in and no more problems out of the clutch. the bike pulls better than before for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Adjust so free play ends (or dead zone ends) and the spring starts to compress (or active zone is entered) just as the pointer aligns with the mark that is cast into the case.

View attachment 226358
I wanted to say thanks again. That annotated photo was worth more than a thousand words. Really, seeing that lifted the fog which sometimes feels perpetual these days! I appreciate your help a lot.
 

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Looking forward to gathering with goats but I have motorcycle performance anxiety… my TW clutch doesn’t seem to slip but is engaging right at the end of the lever travel and is not easy to modulate as it works closer to a switch. I haven’t ridden other TWs so I don’t know what to expect as normal. On a steeper grade, trying to go slow up hill is difficult since the torque isn’t there to let the engine lug way down but the clutch seems awkward to control.

I know that is a subjective thing and maybe hard to answer but sound “normal“??
I just posted about this on the TW world forum on FB. I just found my cable return spring was never installed properly. So have MANY others. I trusted the dealerships to have done this and or checked it. They didn't! Takes seconds to correct with a screwdriver. Even so, very limited adjustment when it's all as good as it gets.

At least I don't have the engine stalling when I put it into first at the beginning of every ride. I now have 3400 miles on a 2021 I bought six months ago.

When I had inquired about services being done and why the clutch didn't seem to work right, the service managers may tell you, they do no wrong. It didn't leave their shops that way. BS.

Good video on YT shows exactly how it should be.
 

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When I had inquired about services being done and why the clutch didn't seem to work right, the service managers may tell you, they do no wrong. It didn't leave their shops that way. BS.

Good video on YT shows exactly how it should be.
The first person to operate the clutch on mine out of the dealer was me. Didn't even have oil in it until they filled it up to give it to me. I think the service side doesn't actually do too much with the bikes on delivery. Mine was a bike shaped object so they handed it to me but I had to put the correct pressure in the tires and everything.

They even forgot to put the toolkit under the side panel.

I have trust issues now. I now believe that talking to my dealer about any problems is a huge waste of time and buying the service manual is the best money I've ever spent.
 

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Oh yes your not the only one.
They pushed my new tdubs out of the shop,up a ramp and I tied it down and drove home, 3 miles on the speedo.I went for a little putt when I got it and found the forks were tweaked in the trees. Went to loosen the pinch bolts and they were just a little more than finger tight. Decided to check all the fastners I could get too easily and found a few others the same way, loose. And two screws missing on the air filter cover. Plus the oil level was barely visible at the bottom of the check window.
So an eighty mile round trip to the dealer and let them correct what should have been done right wasnt gonna happen. Plus the thought of them having it for a couple more weeks.Plus yamahaha wants to strong arm me into an extended warranty on the bike and another for "life time battery service" I dont think so buddy.
No trust here either. Seems pride, work ethic and craftsmanship are long gone.
I feel for the people who dont work on their own stuff and are at the mercy of the $tealer.
 
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