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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, thats just great. I end up on the technical help forum. Beautiful weather, a full tank, oh and no spark.




Sorry in advance if lengthy.



I rode my bike 70ish miles Friday. I dumped it hard twice on the devil's trail I found, but with seamingly no damage at all (thanks panniers). Afterwards I rode it 40 or more miles, stopping twice. Turned the bike off and came back. Cranked just fine. One of those times I stopped for about 30 minutes. Like I said, no problem. Why would there be?



Saturday evening I hop on to do a quick ride and she turns and turns. Nothing doing. So I figured I knocked some tank crud loose and clogged the carb. Pulled it, cleaned it (it was very clean). Still nothing. So I checked for spark and Bingo! Using the starter I got no spark at all. Kicking the crap out of it I got intermittent spark fading to no spark.



Tried 3 different spark plugs, no dice. The ignition coil checks out fine via OHM meter.



Here is where I need help. The "pick up coil" came in at 843 ohms, over spec but not crazy bad. The "source coil" I get nothing. No continuity at all. I'm going to start tracing wires later but would like yall to chime in on a few things.



1. Would a bad source coil cause NO spark?

2. Do they go bad that suddenly; why?

3. Yamaha defines them as "pick up coil" and "source coil" in the manual, but not on the parts diagram. Are they separate? Whats it called on the diagrams. More importantly do you have a good used one for dirt cheap?




One other thing, the wires that come from my ?stator? are different colors than what comes off the harness. I just reconnected them as they came when I rebuilt it. Its been that way for 2100 miles. Yours different colors or do yall have brown to brown, red to red?



Any other ideas, besides cussing yelling and screaming, which I've already done?



1994 non cali

3000 miles

Tiny battery, though fully capable of staring it. It was and is still charged.

Stock air and carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Rich. So the source coil is located on the stator assembly correct. Is it made on with the stator or can it be separated?



I started tracing electrical and found the brown (yellow) wire to source coil had melted the rubber sheath and also melted through the kickstand switch wires. Any idea why it heated up so much? Just a symptom of it going bad?
 

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The exact thing happened to me two years ago.

Overnight, the pulse coil developed an "open circuit" (which I determined by following the Troubleshooting guide in the Manual) and she wouldn't spark.

Unfortunately, the only solution for me was to replace the entire stator coil since everything was mounted on the same frame; not a terribly difficult job...just like changing your front sprocket!

Two things to be wary of...the internal set screws that hold the coil in place are Loc-Tite'd, so you'll have to have a GOOD set of Allen wrenches, sockets would be better. I sheared off one of mine and had to have the local machine shop drill it out and put in a Heli-coil. The worse part of that, was that it was one of two screws that didn't need to be taken out to remove the coil! Live and learn...

The other thing to watch for is that you don't pinch the wires when you re-install the engine casing; everything has a place.



You'll need a new gasket, but while you're at it...now would be a good time to replace the front sprocket, front sprocket bearing and seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thats what I was afraid of. Well, at least I know someone else had the same problem and came to the same solution. I just hope it didn't affect my cdi or anything else.
 

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You can replace just the source coil on the stator assembly, but beware. If you don't do it right it will come apart and F$(& your motor. I did it, they didn't even give me a tshirt nor did i stay in a Holiday Inn Express.



I'm a nut, so if you were me and I were you, I'd get the varnish off the source coil, and unwind the wire counting turns. Find similar sized wire and rewind. Bingo Bango Bongo, sparky spark. Or if you have a decent paying job you can buy a stator, or maybe find a used one on ebay. None of the options are really that great. Someday I will come up with a solution for us all and we can rejoice in non-sucky stator goodness.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, brand new stator assembly, still no spark. On to my cdi. It's proving difficult to find a used one. I put an ad up in the classifieds. There is a used '99 cdi on ebay, but my bike is a '96 and they changed the part number in '98. Now if your still following all this I thought there were only 3 charging systems: the 87's, the 88-00, and the 01's & up.




Will the '99 work on my bike? Any help would be much appreciated!
 

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Ok, brand new stator assembly, still no spark. On to my cdi. It's proving difficult to find a used one. I put an ad up in the classifieds. There is a used '99 cdi on ebay, but my bike is a '96 and they changed the part number in '98. Now if your still following all this I thought there were only 3 charging systems: the 87's, the 88-00, and the 01's & up.




Will the '99 work on my bike? Any help would be much appreciated!




I noticed there is a posting out there where a Member modified the ignition from a TTR-125 and installed it in his TW200. I read through it because i knew you where having issues. It was interesting to see that he actually cut the thing apart and dealt with the source coil separately. If I can find it I'll send you the link.
 

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Yep that was my post. After that I switched to a system from a 1998 TW200 because I didn't anchor the source coil into my stator well enough. It came out of the stator ring and everything got chewed up by the flywheel.



Now the CDI from the '98 appears to be bad, so I will probably switch back to the TTR setup. This is getting really frustrating. I've had my bike for 12 months as of this month and will now be on my 4th ignition setup. If I had a known-good stator I would just buy an ignition from ignitech.cz and call it a day, but cannot confirm at this time whether it is my stator or CDI that is causing grief.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Its incredibly maddening that they charge so much for a cdi and stator just because they flippin can. A 1/3 of the value of the bike are those two components.




At that price they should have lifetime replacement warranties then it wouldnt matter if they were crappy.
 

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Its incredibly maddening that they charge so much for a cdi and stator just because they flippin can. A 1/3 of the value of the bike are those two components.




At that price they should have lifetime replacement warranties then it wouldnt matter if they were crappy.




Yep, I've had enough of it. It's insane and just can't deal with it anymore. Have another TTR125 source coil on its way to me so I can at least get the bike up and running. A lot harder to complain about $30 with the engine side case included and I already have the CDI and wiring harness (will sell engine case to get some money back)



You guys might not believe me, but I literally lie awake some nights, completely consumed by the fact that my bike has given me nothing but ignition (among other) problems. During one of these bouts of depression/contemplation the other night, I got some buyer's remorse about the TTR purchase and realized that I should stop messing around. Being broke doesn't excuse spending $30 on something half-assed when it will only cost $150-$200 to do it right and (hopefully) never do it again.



Going to bite the bullet and buy an ignitech programmable DC CDI on payday. Screw source coils. They are nothing but a thorn in my side, that happen to be submerged in oil inside my engine case. The DC CDI is powered from the battery. This also means I can totally rewire the stator ring in the TW to produce more power if wanted, without worrying about mucking up the source coil.



Hook up some wires, go ride the bike, forget about all the problems in the world. It all seems so simple now...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
New CDI did the trick! I even Sherlock Holmes'd it and figured out where it all went wrong.



So, new stator coil (manual never updates that you should check resistance between brown and yellow instead of brown and red- but thats the correct method) AND a new cdi from a fellow member (thanks Randucci) and thanks to everybody that chimed in!



Rewind all the way back to the day I brought TDub home. I tore into the bike immediately, taking pictures along the way to remember how to put it back together. I used duct tape and a sharpie to label all wires and what wires they were connected to. And herein lies the problem. The previous owner had connected the brown wire to the yellow and vise versa. I put the bike back together and reconnected the wires as they had come. It cranked right up and ran. It ran for 2,000 miles just like that. I don't know for sure that that is the exact problem but that is the only thing I found wrong on my part: other than gremlins




Cranked her up tonight, beautiful! Even got to use my clarke tank for the first time.



Thanks guys!
 

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Glad to hear it is working for you!



I could not get the TTR125 CDI to generate a spark last night, using the source coil and pulser coil from the '98 TW200. Either it got fried when the stator blew up, or there is some inherent difference in the voltages supplied/required from the source/pulser coils on the two bikes.



Will keep you all updated on ignitech CDI, have to get some bills paid and get some money together first.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would love to know how those Ignitech's work out. Good luck!
 
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