TW200 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,303 Posts
"Chain didn't look to hot" Can you elaborate on that? With 140 miles it should not have any noticeable wear at all. The sprockets should be crisp and clean short of maybe some lubricating oil on them. Some rust from sitting around wet after being washed might be expected and especially if the chain was neglected with lubrication.

On the other hand, If there is noticeable wear to the chain and sprockets then you can be certain that the speedo was disconnected or replaced and the stated mileage is BS.

GaryL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
That is a really clean looking bike! Even with mileage that low, I would still check everything over. Make sure that the carburetor, gas tank, oil, plug, etc. are good to go. Congratulations and I hope that you enjoy riding it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
A TW will last a long time with proper care, I had 24000 miles on mine when I traded it for the BMW f700gs.It still ran great and still had origional power and used no oil. I used Shell Rotella 15-40. The TW is a great bike and Yamaha makes good products.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Gary, chain was a bit rusted, i assume never lubed since new. Everything else mint, tits still on tires. Does have a bit of a flat/weak spot just above idle. I've read on here adjust idle mixture screw I believe? Other than that tight and smooth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,083 Posts
I've taken chains like that off and dipped the whole thing in used motor oil. I left it dripping for about a day then ran it for about 12000 miles. Of course I kept it well lubed the rest of its life. To each his own though. If replacing use an o ring or x ring chain. These have a much longer life and stretch much less. Find the highest tensile strength available also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,865 Posts
Nice bike and welcome.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,303 Posts
Gary, chain was a bit rusted, i assume never lubed since new. Everything else mint, tits still on tires. Does have a bit of a flat/weak spot just above idle. I've read on here adjust idle mixture screw I believe? Other than that tight and smooth.
OK! A little rust on a chain is nothing to be concerned with unless you want to go for a ride on it. The stock chain is pure garbage any way and lubricating it just means you get some more miles out of it while you're tossing grime all over the rear end of your beautiful bike and adjusting it regularly. A good quality X ring is the very first upgrade I would do so you can pretty much forget the chain for a lot of miles and not have to grind grease off the ass of you pretty bike.

With just 140 miles on the clock that means it is probably on it's second or maybe it's third full tank of gas and who knows how old that could be. If it is the E 10 ethanol crap the next thing I would do is dump it, clean the rust out of the tank and fill it with real gas, no ethanol, with a double dose of Sea Foam or Lucas Deep Clean. If that does not clear up the dead spot then I will bet you have snot in your float bowl and the carb needs a good cleaning. Did I mention, I hate ethanol and so do our TWs. It is fine for engines that get regular usage and always have fresh refills but it really sucks in engines that sit around for months at a time or in this case from 2013 until almost 2017 with the same fuel. Here is a hint from your Uncle Gar, Look in the tank for the rust I already know is there and after you clean it out install an in line fuel filter. If you do have to tear into the carb then expect to find either some cool looking green crap or some white crud which is the remnants of that deadly chemical called Ethanol.

GaryL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Quick look in the tank looked pretty good as far as rust goes. Couple very small rust areas on metal tube on right side of tank, nothing i could see on bottom of tank but would probably have to lift rear end for sediment to move where you could see it. Does have the dead giveaway varnish smell. PO said he just paid 300 to get it running right again. Looking at bowl screws id say they've never been touched. Looking like a carb/fuel tank clean, and fresh gas. Do they run right/strong with stock adjustment on idle mixture screw? Does not appear to be a plug over mine, can see mixture screw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,303 Posts
Quick look in the tank looked pretty good as far as rust goes. Couple very small rust areas on metal tube on right side of tank, nothing i could see on bottom of tank but would probably have to lift rear end for sediment to move where you could see it. Does have the dead giveaway varnish smell. PO said he just paid 300 to get it running right again. Looking at bowl screws id say they've never been touched. Looking like a carb/fuel tank clean, and fresh gas. Do they run right/strong with stock adjustment on idle mixture screw? Does not appear to be a plug over mine, can see mixture screw.
As you can see, the hump inside the tank and the lip that goes around the fill hole make it extremely hard to see inside the tank. Most of the rust would be found at the lowest point in the tank which is where the petcock is located. When you remove the tank for cleaning and remove the petcock you will get a much better look at what could be going on. The petcock has two tubes with screens, one is for the main fuel and the second is for the reserve. If there is rust it will certainly be here. PO paid $300 to get it running and you can bet probably all they really did was to get it running. Often times this means adding fresh fuel to the stale, replacing or charging the battery and if it starts they might mess with the pilot screw to smooth it out and get it to idle. The pilot screw is on the underside and between the float bowl and the cylinder so very hard to actually see into it. My opinion is to get the tank clean and with fresh fuel and dose it with an internal fuel conditioner as I mentioned earlier. Run it and allow it to sit over night or longer and run it again. Unless you enjoy tearing into carbs I would not go there until you are sure it is necessary and I would not mess with the pilot screw until you are sure it needs adjustments. Only ever make that adjustment when the engine is at full operating temp. I believe most TWs come from the factory adjusted way too lean just so they can pass emissions requirements. Most tend to run quite well with the pilot screw between 2 - 2 1/2 turns out from bottom.

A few tips. If you have a dealer close I would buy a new petcock O ring gasket. If your carb has what appear to be Phillips head screws on the float bowl they are actually JIS screws and NOT Phillips. You will need a #1 JIS screw driver often called a Cross Point head here. While at it you might want to buy the #2 #3 JIS drivers for many of the other screws. Some carbs come with Allen head screws and they are Metric threads and metric heads. I try to avoid fixing things that are not broke so see if you can get it running smooth first before ripping any deeper. Clean, fresh fuel goes a long way.

GaryL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,871 Posts
Welcome from the middle of the world where it's about zero degrees right now.. I am also jealous of your weather, but not jealous of your TW, as I have an '87 model, which some of us have discovered are the fastest of the TW's. lololol We might be just funnin' on that, but I am envious of the condition of your TW. It is "like new". Congrats on your purchase. Hope you ride the heck out of it. Have fun out there on the left coast. Lots of good folks out there to ride with, and lots of great places to ride. Maybe you can take in one of TWBrian's famous "wrench and ride" events.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for info gary appreciate it! Was at oreilly auto parts this am and saw these. $1.99, small one worked perfect for checking pilot screw. Numbered 3 red flats so where ever it dropped in slot easy to count turns. I was 1 1/2 turns out, set at 2 1/2 and will get some fresh gas/seafoam clean tank and see where were at.
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top