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Discussion Starter #1
I put a 50 tooth JT rear sprocket on my bike last night. It looks like this, with a cutout on one side.







The cutout side fits over the aluminum hub just fine, but it seemed like the chain would rub on the chain guard and maybe be a bit mis-aligned if I ran it that way.



The sprocket I removed had no cutout (aftermarket 44 toother.)



The cutout posed a problem with the metal bolt lock tabs. It got in the way of their proper usage. I was able to torque down everything, but the ears along the outer part of the ring were pushed up by the sprocket.



I installed the sprocket the same way the other one had been installed. Does any of this look wrong?







Is the JT sprocket supposed to be flipped around (would have installed a lot easier) or would that screw up chain alignment?
 

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The indent faces outside.



With JT sprockets I just let tightening the bolts bend the tabs. They won't turn involountarily once seated.



Three slightly different bolt thread lengths were used over the years. Make sure your sprocket is fully seated rather than the bolts having just simply ran out of threads.



Sometimes it's hard to tell, but you may need an extra washer to get the full amout of thread required.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I ran into that issue. The sprocket is tight on five of the six bolts, but one turns still. I'll pick up some washers to take up the slack. Thanks for the heads up. It makes sense if the OEM sprocket is double the thickness of this one where the bolts go in.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
In my case, 'out' means the chain doesn't rub the chain guard. It would rub if I had the indent inside, which is what made me decide to do things the way I did. I did use the smaller holes since I saw on the other aftermarket sprocket that there were two sizes of holes as well. Typically with JT stuff I've always had the logo and sprocket count facing the outside, but I was scratching my head as to the perfect fit of the indent around the aluminum hub, haha. Maybe with spacer washers it'd work with the chain and indent facing inward. Does the OEM sprocket have the indent? That would settle it for me. The 44 toother I got had no indentation, but was aftermarket. I don't have the Yamaha sprocket since I bought the bike used.





Also, do the lock tabs really DO anything, given the fact you have an exposed nut on the back side? All of my other bikes have locking studs from the back or the nuts in the back are locked into place by design of the rear hub. I don't really see the point in the lock tabs if the lock nuts are able to back themselves off with no locks I guess. I am definitely going to buy six washers to handle the 'torque down' issue with this thinner sprocket mount.
 
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