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Discussion Starter #1
Bought a used DR with a new set of K270's on it.. After getting over the height and weight difference from my little TW200, I was able to notice little things. Front wheel had a bump bump at slow speeds. Found a 4"-5" section of the bead still down inside the rim. Got that straightened out and seated properly....

Went to clean my chain the other night, got the back end in the air, grabbed the back tire to start turning it, found it flat as a pancake. Can't find any puncture, and no kind of run-flat damage. Went to remove the valve stem nut, the damn thing was cranked down against the rim so hard it was stripped. (Likely the cause of the flat) So, ended up mangling the stem so much it needed a new tube anyway.

Put the back end back together last night, thought "Hmm..should check the front nut too, I guess...." Yup, ALSO cranked down against the rim so hard it was stripped. :disgust:

I really hope it was the PO that buggered this stuff all up and not an actual shop. I've only changed one motorcycle tire in my life (the DW on the TW) but it only took about 30 seconds of googling to verify what's supposed to be done with that nut. :computer: That's all, just a rant....carry on.
 

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Bought a used DR with a new set of K270's on it.. After getting over the height and weight difference from my little TW200, I was able to notice little things. Front wheel had a bump bump at slow speeds. Found a 4"-5" section of the bead still down inside the rim. Got that straightened out and seated properly....

Went to clean my chain the other night, got the back end in the air, grabbed the back tire to start turning it, found it flat as a pancake. Can't find any puncture, and no kind of run-flat damage. Went to remove the valve stem nut, the damn thing was cranked down against the rim so hard it was stripped. (Likely the cause of the flat) So, ended up mangling the stem so much it needed a new tube anyway.

Put the back end back together last night, thought "Hmm..should check the front nut too, I guess...." Yup, ALSO cranked down against the rim so hard it was stripped. :disgust:

I really hope it was the PO that buggered this stuff all up and not an actual shop. I've only changed one motorcycle tire in my life (the DW on the TW) but it only took about 30 seconds of googling to verify what's supposed to be done with that nut. :computer:That's all, just a rant....carry on.

You didn't mention the DR having a Rim Lock. That adds a little extra to the tire changing experience. Could have had the Rim Lock nut stripped also. fpalm.gif
 

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I ride with an old MXer and he informed me that with the valve stem nut you do not tighten it against the rim, but back it off and tighten it against the cap. This way if the tire does slip on the rim and pulls the tube with it the valve stem ends up at and angle but still attached to the tube and can easily be straightened out again. If there is no free play the valve stem may get ripped from the tube and you know have an unrepairable tube.
 

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You can also go to a Honda dealer and get the rubber stem seals used on the XR models. It gets rid of the lock nut and keeps water and dirt from getting inside.
 

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GC...you don't have to get used to the height of the DR, they lower fairly easily and for cheap ( free) 1 1/2" on the bike and then add the concepts lower seat and you end up with your butt 3" closer to the ground. it's really nice to be able to touch the ground with your feet instead of tipping over
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No rim locks.

I took an o-ring kit and slid an o-ring down over the valve stem, then 2 more that were a bit smaller and snug, then turned the stem nut down finger tight against the o-ring 'stack'. Should seal but still leave lots of room for flexibility if it's needed. From the reading I've done, even the experts that build wheels for a living either spin them up against the bottom of the cap, or just toss them completely...so if the experts use nothing, a few O-rings that may or may not do anything is good enough for me. As for the front, well, I know I'll likely mangle up the stem getting that stripped nut off of there, so I'll pick up a tube and spend an evening in the shed with it over the winter and pull that tube out to be safe. if it's fine, I'll likely put a new one anyway and keep that one for a spare.

grewen- I tried it at factory height and while I could get both toes down, a slight lowering was in order...still being new, and the DR being 45 pounds heavier than the TW (and seemingly WAY more top-heavy), I wanted a little extra safety zone. As you likely know, there are two bolt holes on the lower shock mount. Mine was on the factory position (high), so I just moved it to the other hole, and that lowered the seat height about an inch. I didn't touch the forks as that amount of lowering was just perfect. It was just a smidge too high for a 1-year rider, but I'll likely put it back where it was after riding becomes more......automatic. I also found (the first time I was out after dark) that lowering your rear suspension an inch will put your headlight up in the range of signaling airplanes...LOL
 

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I really like mine lowered, front and rear, it feels like a little sports car on the blacktop in the corners. plus the seat change feels great. that stock seat was a back/ass breaker for me. when you changed the shock bolt hole, they say to flip the spring platform thing, over. I not sure why, but I did mine anyway. and "they" are right, Suzuki does go cheap on the grease in the dog bone bearings

you say yours is still new also, have you got the carb figured out yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Funny, reading about the DR before I bought it, the entire world said the seat was a plank with a towel on it. Mine's stock and I can't really fault it too much. By 150km on the TW, I was wishing for a pillow to sit on. I did a couple 150-180km days on the DR and wasn't butt-hurt at all. My lower back would start to get sore just like it did on the TW, but as for the tender bits that actually contact the seat, it's better than the TW.

I also read about the spring platform flip, but also read comments from lots of people that put thousands of miles on without doing it, with no ill effects. So...yeah.

Drawing a blank on the carb question..? Getting in the top end of the mileage that others report, other than a slight surge that still exists at lower speeds but I've stopped noticing....all is well.
 
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