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Discussion Starter #1
I found an '87 TW200 on Arizona craigslist. Not running. 3,144 miles. Sat in a metal storage for 10 years. Not stored properly. Tank half full of fuel and rusty. Pretty much all there. Missing the side plastic trims and the plastic cover for wiring on right side. Needs the chain guard. The headlamp / high low beam switch needs to be replaced. Fork boots are not pretty. If anyone can tell me a place to find these parts and tell me the battery size / number, I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance. arizonabusmocamper
 

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Did you already buy it? The 1987 Model has a different electrical setup and the CDI's are prone to fail. They can be costly and hard to find.

You can get a Clarke tank replacement, it is bigger than stock, cheaper than a new metal one. Justgastanks was offering a discount not to long ago to forum members, not sure if it is still going on.



I would start your parts search here. You should get a good Idea how much $ your looking at. Shopping around you may find parts cheaper or better shipping deals.



A forum member works at Procycle and set up a TW page with a lot a parts too.
 

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Look in the classified ad section of this forum. Post "Want To Buy" (WTB) ads for specific parts. Search the forum for what others have done. For example, use generic fork boots and how to install them -- a set is <$20. Just one from Yamaha is >$40.



Be patient, Ask questions. Shop around (don't forget used parts on ebay). It will all come together.



I have two '87's and they both run well.
 

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pm sent
 

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welcome!...i deal with these guys for OEM parts...but like it was said above if you don't have to go OEM then aftermarket is the way to go...sometimes cheaper and just as good...procycle has a lot of good stuff...i would do like Tony said and post up your WTB list in the classified section as well as a photo cause forum members may have other parts you can use...maybe post up a photo of your bike as well so people can throw out parts/ideas for you...tank, battery & fork boots i would go aftermarket



http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/4/Make/Yamaha/YearID/28/Year/1987/ModelID/9234/Model/TW_200



used chain guards on ebay are pricy...ron ayers is cheaper for a new one...



if you need to find anything on this forum use google to search for it and type it in like below...

site:http://tw200forum.com battery



a lot of people around here like shorai batteries but they aren't cheap

http://www.shoraipower.com/c.3379047/BatteryFinder/battery-finder.ssp
 

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My advice is that before you get too carried away you focus first on getting the engine running. Only because it's an '87, which have a failure prone CDI as mentioned. That particular CDI is no longer available from Yamaha, can be hundreds of dollars if you find an N.O.S. one, and used ones generally aren't a very safe gamble.



A lot of '87's are sold as non-runners for this reason ("Been sitting for a year, only needs battery and carb cleaned. My loss, your gain").



Make sure yours isn't one of them. They sometimes fail in an intermittent manner and will run perfectly for 20 minutes, then cut out, or either won't idle but run fine at high rpm or idle fine but won't run at high rpm, etc. Difficult to diagnose and ca lead you down the garden path of frustration, multiple carb rebuilds, etc. chasiing it down.



Not trying to scare you. There are plenty of good-running '87's out there. But as a precaution until it runs perfectly I'd be less inclined to invest in the missing or damaged cosmetic pieces.



Good bunch of locals to ride with when you get it finished. But watch out for ol' Pinky.
 

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I should like to add a bit of prior wisdom to this thread, for continuity, and maybe it'll help:



http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/3559-resurrecting-an-older-bike/


Jontow, I didn't mean too give this post a negative red mark. I was scrolling my iPad and accidentally touched it right where it causes the red negative feed back. I can't figure out how to make it go away. Sorry!



If anything it should be a green positive. Qwerty had some good advise and it's good you brought it up and shared it.
 

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n2o2: you can only mark a post once, good news: it for some dumb reason lets me mark it too
So I hit + and now its at a neutral count.



It is a sticky, and for good reason, the man knows his stuff. But if someone is searching and doesn't find it, I like to link to those posts in threads, hence the continuity comment.
 

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And for further continuity: please see a thread started by my brother, who has thusly been named "knower of things CDI" on this forum, having spent the better part of his waking hours this summer fighting with his 91:



http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/5168-ignitech-programmable-dc-cdi/



Good route to go, if it turns out to be a fried CDI in an '87. Careful, its a long read, and the dude still has my USB-RS232 adapter. Turns out having a place to live outweighs a working TW
I forgive him.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the responses and links to info.



I am waiting on a battery I ordered. Should I be able to test for spark w/out a battery? Tried and no spark.



Removed carb and going to disassemble and clean tomorrow. Opened float bowel and looking thru the openings to the throttle valve, doesn't look bad for being stored for 10 years with the petcock open to reserve and two quarts of petro in the tank. Just a very little bit of thick oily dark green stuff in bowel. No varnish, nothing stuck to the metal, no flakes. The owner said he had put a stabilizer in with the gas before stowing it. I am always amazed that people neglect to store a bike properly, when it is so easy to do.



Screw was stripped that holds muffler pipe outlet. What maneuver separates the exhaust pipe from muffler?

Can't break the connection to remove pipe/muffler from bike. I want to remove it to easy-out the old screw on the bench and to clean and maybe paint the exhaust.



Ron Ayers does not show a reflector with the rear bracket. What size is the reflector? Where can I get one?



Wondering if the mono-shock can be adjusted for more spring and a stiffer ride? Seems soft testing it sitting in place.



Going to bring fuel tank to a radiator shop in town to see if they can clean the interior. They did a good job on my '72 RT2 I got a couple years ago.



Believing this baby is going to start up easily and run for a long time. I've been enjoying tinkering and detailing it. Straightening foot pegs, and lubing and adjusting cables, etc. Exploring the components and design. Doesn't look like it was messed with much. All wiring appears untouched and intact.



If I can figure out how to reduce the size of my photos, I will post them here.



arizonabusmocamper







 

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The spark can be a pain to see sometimes. I usually do it with an inductive timing light instead. Spark is not battery-dependent. It's a wasted spark system so it fires every 180 degrees. Kicking it should produce 3-4 sparks, particularly if the plug is removed.



'87's have a seperate lighting coil, so the headlight only comes on when the engine is running. All other years it comes on with the key, so don't panic once you hook up the battery. No headlight is normal.



The shock has 3 grooves and a clip which are hidden under the spring collar. You need a spring compressor to change it. You can change the preload slightly, but it doesn't do much. I'd wait til it's rideable. The stocker is actually really stiff at the end of its compression. Depending on what you weigh it will actually pogo the rear long before it bottoms.



Be patient with the muffler. There's (supposed to be) a soft graphite bushing between the header pipe O.D. and the muffler I.D. Use some penetrant and keep working it. That stoopit little bushing is like 15 bucks from Yamaha so don't booger it up if you can avoid it.
 

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Be patient with the muffler. There's (supposed to be) a soft graphite bushing between the header pipe O.D. and the muffler I.D. Use some penetrant and keep working it. That stoopit little bushing is like 15 bucks from Yamaha so don't booger it up if you can avoid it.


like lizrdbrth says be careful with this thing...i ended up having to replace mine cause i had an exhaust leak...if you can see it and it looks all crusty you probably will too

http://www.ronayers.com/ProductDetails/N/687/SKU/558750
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Carb cleaned up nicely. There was a thin layer of dry brownish residue stuck to bottom of bowel that took a little effort. The rest cleaned up well, short of a complete disassembly. I am a little intimidated by the number of parts I see in the diagram. I will consult with a more experienced friend about a total rebuild later. Best place to buy a gasket kit?



Anyone have a gas cap they want to sell? Mine had the lock(?)removed and is very rusty.

Previous owner said they would look for the side covers but haven't come through. I can use those parts also.

Please let me know what you have.



Again, thanks for the time you take answering my questions.



arizonabusmocamper
 

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I met a guy once that had found a gas cap from a Yamaha generator that fit. No lock but it did have the tuning forks on it. See if you can match one up with your old cap.



The other option is to take the cap apart and clean it. Some Navel Jelly and patience works wonders. And you don't need a lock on the cap. Having the keyhole in place and everyone that looks at it will think it is locked.
 
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