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Discussion Starter #1
Well I just graduated from the CT-90 scene.., and bought a brand new 2013 TW200.. I know very little about these bikes and would like some advice on; break in.., if its 'ok' to use oil additives such as lucas or avblend (avblend is a super lubricant used in air cooled aircraft engines that some motorcycles can handle), fuel additives like lucas uppercylinder lubricant, is it ok to use the 'green slime' tire sealer?, and other basic 'dos and donts'.. This is my 1st NEW bike and I would like to keep it in the best shape possible.. Any links to sites with accessories is also appreciated.. 2013-09-21 15.24.33.jpg 2013-09-21 15.18.12.jpg 2013-09-21 14.54.32.jpg 2013-09-21 14.08.18.jpg
 

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Personally, I wouldn't put any oil additives in the engine. Having a "wet" clutch could cause issues when adding "friction modifiers" to the oil. I am a fan of Lucas oil in my old jeep though. Lucas does make a motorcycle specific oil and I'm thinking about putting that in for the next oil change.

One of the big items that I've seen alot on these forums has to do with getting to the pilot screw and making the bike run a little richer by turning it out 2-1/2 times once you get it seated all the way. Whatever altitude you're running, you'll definitely want to make sure it doesn't run lean because that'll make it run hotter and shorten the life of the oil. Another thing with the oil is that you'll want to check it REGULARLY. When I run 50+mph for an hour it burns through about 4oz oil in about a tank. During the break in period there will probably be ALOT of metal shavings in the filter (check with others, take pics, etc., and post with your first oil change to see what others say). Follow proper break-in for the bike will seat everything good from the get-go so it last as long as possible. A Lizard breath (member here) oil cooler is on my to-do list.

The stock chain is a non-o-ring type. Lube it often (for me it's usually once every two rides). Some people don't talk trash about the stock chain but alot of 'em do. Do your research and go the direction you want. I have about 5,500mi on my stock chain now and it seems to be at about 2/3 of its life due to the previous owner not keeping up on maintenance.

Mr.Bracket (forum member) works for Procycle. They have some stuff for our bikes.
Yamaha TW200 Parts and Performance - ProCycle

Most of the people on this site are AWESOME and will help out with questions. For any not so nice response you get, remember, everyone has an opinion and like bungholes; some aren't as clean and obviously stink.

Keep in mind that the little engine guard that are on these things are basically a cosmetic add on. It bends really easy and will not protect the engine if you hit anything moving faster than you can push it (my opinion and shared by many).

The stock front tire is terrible in most peoples opinion after they've changed it to something else.

Welcome to the forum, best wishes with this fun bike and be safe!
 

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Congrats and welcome! Sharp looking TW, thanks for sharing pics. :)

I like using Seafoam in my gas every tank, seems to keep the ethanol crud to a minimum and keep the carb clean when in storage (over the winter). I'm sure others have a personal favorite, and some that use none at all - same on the oil additives. Personally I try to keep that sort of thing to a minimum. The only issue I ever experienced was ethanol crud (lots of reading out there on what ethanol does to carbuerators and rubber seals) causing poor running, and Seafoam cured the problem. Green slime and Ride On are fairly popular for tires, each has it's supporters and detractors. Break in methods are usually one of three camps : Follow manufacturer recommendations, Ride the bike like you normally would, and, Ride it like you stole it (Aka Motoman break in). Supporters and detractors for each one of them. I'm somewhere in between the Ride it normally and Ride it like you stole it camps.

Short version: It's your bike. Learn about each of the methodologies/additives etc, and choose the one you feel good about. These bikes will run well as long as you do proper maintenance, change the oil and keep oil levels checked. Nothing else required IMO (except adjusting the pilot screw, now that, most do agree on, but try it and decide for yourself :D ).
 

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welcome, you're in for some fun! btw: here's my other bike '79
 

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The best way to carry extra fuel is between your legs in a larger tank. Clark makes a couple tanks that can fit and there are other options if you want to go in other directions.
As far as oil is concerned you can follow the warranty recommendations while in the warranty so you don't void it. After that some like me prefer full synthetic designed for motorcycles with wet clutches. Others swear by the standard Dino and also do fine. I don't believe in any oil additives if it isn't in the oil correct type to begin with.
Break in is pretty standard, don't hammer on it and vary the RPMs often until things work in and inner surfaces wear in together. Change the oil and filter often and be careful to not get the engine overly hot by doing slow but hard rides for a while. Heat is the enemy in a new engine.
Look at the pics of other members bikes and decide what options you might want to add to yours. The stock tires are OK at first and perform much better if inflated right for the terrain. Lower pressure for off road and at the recommended PSI for road and weight. I think every new bike or car or truck comes with a low cost tire to reduce the initial cost but these are not too bad to begin with.

Nice looking bike and welcome to the forum, have fun here.

GaryL
 

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.. what about larger fuel tanks/or efficient ways to carry more fuel..?..
The Clarke tanks (TW (2.7 gal), XT225 & XT350 (4 gal)), and OEM tanks of the same variety (XT225, XT350) are always nice, and on the higher end of the cost scale. There have been several that fabricated rack tanks for the rear rack (these are really cool :) ). And there's always the lowly but ultra affordable plastic gas can, or slightly more expensive Kolpin or Rotopax mountable fuel tanks (2gal) that can double your range. For small amounts of extra fuel, camping stove fuel bottles (.8 liter and smaller) can easily be stowed or mounted. Pick what fits your budget and needs.

Thanks for sharing the pics. :)
 

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If your bike is equipped with California emissions the pilot screw will be covered with a seal that will need to be removed. At least this was my experience.

Respectfully,

Moose
 

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Discussion Starter #13
2013-10-13 15.13.19.jpg 2013-10-13 15.19.26.jpg Thanks for the tips.. I think I know what tank im gonna get... but, What about racks..? I am willing to spend a 'respectable' amount of $ on the ultimate carrying capacity of this bike.. Which ones are the 'best'..? which ones do I avoid..? If im really about to shell out $300+.. I would like some advice on what not to spend $ on etc.,.. heres some more pics of my back-yard.. 2013-09-28 14.59.19.jpg 2013-09-28 15.22.59.jpg 2013-09-28 15.19.27.jpg
 

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i just picked up my new 13! yesterday!!! my plan was to run 80%dirt but its so nice on the street im all ready thinking something smother for tires, and some small racks for milk and eggs.
what are you guys using for online parts
 

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I bought a new 13 Yesterday too!! Picking it up in a few days...
 

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Shim your jet needle so it runs richer and you can ride away on a semi cold engine(at low rpm) without it gasping for fuel.
O ring chain is a must. Handle bar set backs are good. Extra fuel tank on the back rack is handy. Sprocket change for higher speed if you use it on the highway. 70 mph is possible. Don't be afraid to rev it. Oil changes are cheap and cheap insurance.
 

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Keep in mind that you will get all sorts of "Opinions" here, mine included, but it is your job to determine how you brake in your new bike and which opinions you value!

In the technical section, member OSOK asked the same question about brake in and there are a ton of opinions as to what is best for a new TW.

My opinion may not follow acceptable norms but for the first 200 miles I would baby it by always varying the RPMs and not hammering on it. Keep her moving so it does not get overly hot at first. Change the oil often and pay attention to metal particles that are caught by the filter screen. As far as getting in to the carb for re jetting, you should have a warranty and I would check to be sure you are not voiding it by fiddling. Brake in is outlined in your owners manual.

Have fun and welcome to our addiction!

GaryL
 
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