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Discussion Starter #1
89 with 4K miles - runs and rides quite well, despite the neglected appearance and signs of half done and half assed PO projects.

The Kickstarter is frozen. It sure looks like an aftermarket set-up to me. I haven’t put too much force to it, knowing that the starter cracks it to life quick and easy every time.

Before I open it up to inspect what’s wrong, I’d like to hear your thoughts about what might be a likely cause or problem?

Also, would you guys leave it alone and avoid a possible can of worms?

I got this bike cheap with a clean title in poor running condition. Valve adjustment, timing chain tensioner adjustment, and a 35 buck carb got it running good. There’s lots of little ignored maintenance items.

The clutch on this bike is the smoothest of any TW I’ve owned, which leads me to believe someone has been in there before.
 

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The clutch on this bike is the smoothest of any TW I’ve owned, which leads me to believe someone has been in there before.
That, and the allen head screws.... ;)

If it were mine, I'd have to open it up and fix it. It would drive me nuts to have it not work properly.

Have fun!
 

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It is clearly not the stock TW kick lever on your bike. Your problem could be as simple as that oddball kick lever and/or boss could be binding on the side cover.



100_4115.JPG

If there is no obvious interference or binding, then I'd suggest removing the kick lever and see if the splined kickstarter shaft is free to move. This should rotate freely about 15 degrees in the counter-clockwise direction until it engages an idler gear that then turns the crankshaft. If this splined shaft does not rotate freely, or does not engage the idler gear, then you'll have to remove the side to see what is going on in the inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Brian. I was able to get it free without violence or damage. It moves freely with no unwanted sounds but the return spring is not returning so I’ll be going in there soon. What are the odds that the return spring is to blame for it being seized before I freed it?

CJ7 - those aren’t the only “odd” fasteners. I have a good used set of OEM clutch cover bolts I can use.

These neglected bikes are fun to bring back from the dead, but some of the mods/repairs just leave me shaking my head. Makes me think back to some of the stuff me and my brothers did to keep our dirt bikes running with whatever we could find.
 

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It appears to me from the first photo the return spring is hanging down under the kick boss and outside the cover rather than inside behind the cover where it belongs.

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes it looks like the return spring, but it’s actually the rod that hooks onto the rear brake lever to activate the brake light. It’s hard to take decent pics and confusing when it’s stripped of other parts.
 

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Yes it looks like the return spring, but it’s actually the rod that hooks onto the rear brake lever to activate the brake light. It’s hard to take decent pics and confusing when it’s stripped of other parts.
Thanks for clearing that up badger. I have seen some pretty stupid things done by POs of these TWs such as cutting the blinker wires instead of just pulling the bullet connectors apart and leaving the harness in tact. Think it is time to order a fresh side cover gasket and take a dive inside. I have read about an E clip inside that can break and jamb the gears and also about guys doing the kick install and not getting it right. TWBrian has good pictures showing the difference between the right and wrong kick shaft boss for the TW. Not sure if you can still buy them or not because I did hear Yamaha discontinued some parts.

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks! I’ve been reading this and other threads over and over and plan to use it as a guide.
https://www.tw200forum.com/forum/technical-write-ups/13728-kick-start-installation-positioning-pictures.html

Good to hear thoughts from folks before I dig in.

Funny you mention snipping wires instead of separating the connectors. This bike came with a failed attempt at LED turn signals. I think it just needs resistors. But the setup looks like a cheap, ugly (IMO) unit and I always take these bikes back to stock if possible and cost effective. So they gotta go. Luckily, the PO tucked the somewhat unmolested OE wires and connectors behind the right side cover and they all appear to have continuity. I have little experience with wiring and electronics and I bought this bike thinking it would be an opportunity to learn more. Seemed logical at the time lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)

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