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Hello gang
I'm still waiting for my kit to arrive from Germany..
I did score a brand new .old stock Kickstarter lever..
From TWBigBlakes pictures it looks like I could have
Survived with the one that comes in the kit
Now I will thrive with the original and have a spare
To throw in the parts box..
What the heck it's only money that would have been wasted
On food or something else stupid...lol
I ordered the $28 manual I found a link to somewhere on
This forum to hopefully help keep me from screwing up the install....
It turns out to be a cheap Xerox type copy with a plastic binding I wouldn't recommend it
But it will serve it's purpose here I hope..
My question of the day is do I need to buy the tool to hold the clutch basket ?
Can I just put the bike in first gear and lock the rear brake to reinstall the clutch basket?
Thanks
Mike
 

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My question of the day is do I need to buy the tool to hold the clutch basket ?
Can I just put the bike in first gear and lock the rear brake to reinstall the clutch basket?
Thanks
Mike
If you have an electric or air impact wrench, you can usually spin the nut off without using a tool. I have also done it using the technique of holding the rear wheel by placing a 2x4 between the spokes across the swingarm. If you want to borrow the tool shown below, let me know and I can get it in the mail to you.

Brian

Connecting rod Crankset Bicycle drivetrain part
 

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Brian thanks for the offer but I have no idea when I'm going to get to do the install.
I'm planning on spinning the clutch nut off with my DeWalt impact.
I was more concerned with torquing it back down.
I was considering buying that tool myself does it fit any other bikes?
My bike has under 1500 miles
What do you think about installing heavy duty/performance clutch springs while
I'm in there doing the Kickstarter?
If so what brand would you recommend
Have a great day
Mike
 

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That EBC tool is only good for TW and similar engines. The Tusk tool below is more of a universal one that will work on many different bikes.

That clutch basket nut just need to be snugged up as you will be bending up a tab on a lockwasher that secures it from loosening up.

I have heard good things about Barnett brand clutch components.

Pliers Tool Cutting tool Metal
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Here is a link to the installation instructions thread:

 

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Not knowing anything about motorcycle engines, can this Kickstarter be used when there is no key in the ignition? Is the battery required for anything other than electric start, headlight, blinkers, etc.? I was thinking of a scenario where the battery dies and you needed to get home. Or another scenario of a thief using the kickstart to steal the bike.
 

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You still need the key...,..
It works fine if the battery is dead.
That's the best reason for the Kickstarter
Mike from N.C.
 
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Hey guys any news or updates with your kickstarter kits? Have they been holding up ok? I’m almost ready to go ahead with the order... just wanted to know if there was any more bits I might need? I am planning to replace my clutch discs and springs at same time with somthing better than stock... ebc, Barrett??? What do you guys recommend for after market clutch? Thanks
 

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Fine and dandy here.
Still use it once and a while, just because...

I did EBC springs only. And adjusted the clutch so the push lever is on the tighter side of the crankcase match mark. I like the set up with shorty levers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I use the kickstart to cold start the bike every time now. Still works fine, I will mention the kick lever from Sebastians kit stays in place better than the oem lever and boss. It doesn't get in the way of your leg but it usually needs a little helping hand to push it the rest of the way into the stowed position after kicking the bike over.

Love it though, glad I have one.

There might be some folks who advise against the clutch plates if you have a newer bike, but I'm always interested in cool new upgrades. So I'd say, find what's available for the TW (in terms of clutch plates or packs) see if there are any high performance ones, and see if they make a real difference in how the bike operates.

I get some stale responseson here sometimes inquiring about crazy upgrades, if you don't mind throwing down the cash to be a ginea pig, maybe you'll find something other forum members really dig.
 

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Hey guys any news or updates with your kickstarter kits? Have they been holding up ok? I’m almost ready to go ahead with the order... just wanted to know if there was any more bits I might need? I am planning to replace my clutch discs and springs at same time with somthing better than stock... ebc, Barrett??? What do you guys recommend for after market clutch? Thanks
Just curious--what don't you like about the OEM clutch plates and springs? Are you looking for an easier pull/better modulation, or did your originals wear out prematurely? Haven't taken the plunge on a TW yet (the 2021 "color choice" put me off) but the clutch pull on the hydraulic clutch on my Christini (GASGAS 300 2T powered) is really light and controllable, especially given the short, sawed-off levers I'm working with.
 

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Wanting to do the kick starter and clutch at same time. My clutch is basically a on/off switch. Shortly after I took delivery of new tw I found the clutch return spring off... and the clutch does not engage until the lever is all the way out.
my thinking is to upgrade/repair the clutch when doing my kicker :)
 

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The bite point on a TW is exactly that – a point. You can adjust that point to where it suits you, but it remains “a point”

My point is, that the point of changing the springs does not change the point, it remains a point – if you get my point

By all means go ahead and chuck stronger springs in there if it helps the clutch to bite, but where and how it bites (the range) is unlikely to change

Hydraulic clutches on bikes are the mutts nuts, I've had a few, (clutches I mean) – but these bikes are built to a price, and a light cable clutch is easier on the cable, which is probably why the clutch on these is the way it is …..
 

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Good point.

I agree with the mechanical aspects of what you are saying.

I disagree that it doesn't make a difference. We modify our bikes for the rider; whether it is visual appeal, ergonomics, or performance.

I think the stiffer spring rate made it easier for me to modulate and slip the clutch. I have strong jar opening hands and fingers though. To me it "feels" much less like a digital on/off switch then the stock springs. To others it might feel too strong. Most people like light clutches.
 

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Curious point – my wrist and finger strength is the result of many (many) years of motorcycling. I wonder if the lightness of the standard TW clutch causes slightly less “finesse” in such cases

For myself, took to it like a duck to water, but I accept that others may wish for change

That you acknowledge the mechanics, implies that the “change” is left to the “feel”, and perhaps not to the point of contact

Interesting ……
 

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Bummer.....

Important note:
This kit is currently sold out and the parts are no longer produced by the Asian manufacturer.
I'm already looking for another manufacturer to produce these parts for me.
If this kit is back in stock, this will be entered in the news.
 
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