Pull the covers and check the valves for missing hardware or loose adjustment. I’ve heard proper assembly and torque specs during assembly can be an issue. I wouldn’t run that engine until you can find the culprit. Hope it’s easy and no damage. Sorry to have to welcome you to the forum in this way. Let us know if you need procedures for valve inspection.
i thought this was another fred hijacking thread...
is the knocking transmission related? i got my '94 with 3500 miles and was surprised how klunky it shifted. many, myself included, have found switching to synthetic greatly improves shifting, though some suggest waiting a couple of thousand miles before changing.
Manual recommendations discourage things like "accelerating under demand, like up hills" for the first 500 miles or so.
This brings up a hi-jackable debate on proper break-in procedures for our TWs.
Some say ride 'em hard initially 20 miles in brief blasts so that cylinder honing cross-hatching has a chance to grind and seat the piston rings properly, and if babied those cross-hatched etchings on the cylinder wall don't have a chance to mill the rings properly before cross hatching is worn away.
Opposite school of though is to avoid at all costs building high engine heat for first several hundred miles. This what the manual refers too. Perhaps it is concern about possible accelerated wear from differential thermal expansion?
Anyways weo58's knocking sounds unusual. Confirming valve train adjustments can be wise on a used bike but since bike is brand new & on warrantee it might be best to return to dealership so that they can tell you ""Oh, they all do that...go away" which is b better than " Hey, you worked on the bike and now your warrantee is void". Many believe it is better to start and have a paper trail of fully documented warrantee issues. I do like the Yamaha Motor Company but distrust their US dealerships.
I wouldn't ride it until you figure it out. I would, at minimum adjust the fuel mixture as LT suggests and add some higher octane fuel (we have recreational fuel in MI, 89 octane, no ethanol that would be my choice if you have something like that locally). If it disappears, easy fix. Then you can try and see if regular fuel works with the properly adjusted carb.
I think lil tommy has it right my bikes had a lean knock until I got them jetted right. They knocked like the timing was off. Open up the pilot air screw to 2-21/2 turns and then try a 128 main jet. You could pull the plug and check how it looks. I bet real lean.