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Ive had problems for years kills batteries. Ive come to realize that there must be a small short in the wiring harness somewhere. I was faced with two options, either tear apart the wiring looking for a short, or wire a disconnect in. I had trolling motor wire and high quality plugs lying around and patcher her together.




Sent from the first city on the Mississippi.
 

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I like it. We could critique it and suggest solutions and improvements but if it works congratulations. I enjoy creative solutions to vexing problems.
 

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The winning solution...costs little money; less time; gets you back on the road fast.

It reminds me of a problem I had with an intermittent relay partial-failure I had on a Yugo...removing the battery cable reset the relay, for days or weeks until it happened again.

But that could be inconvenient in the middle of a busy intersection. After a couple of failures in dangerous places, I just put a jumper wire, from the + terminal on the battery to a fused hot terminal on the fuse panel...problem solved.

This is as good.

I did something as redneck wiring a GPS on my CB1100. Not having a schematic or the patience to sort through one...I just wired a power socket to the battery, and then adhesive clamps along the base of the gas tank. Run the cigarette-lighter plug-in from under the seat, along those clips, to the handlebars. NO...PROBLEM.

With that bike's robust electrical system, I can leave it plugged in for (so far, I've tried) five hours or so, shut down, with no negative effects.
 

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What's the rectifier do?
Stator outputs AC. Rectifier converts it to DC. The rectifier also has a built-in output voltage regulator.
I doubt that it has any noticeable current drain. The old selenium rectifiers did, but they were obsolete long before the first TW was built. All TWs use silicon rectifiers, which have negligible leakage.
 
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