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Recently, the question of the “Y” link in the carb tube came up – for those of you unfamiliar with it, read here - http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-help/673-tw-died-water-crossing-carb-vent-solution-offered-2.html

If you have the time and the inclination, the whole thread is well worth reading – but to cut a long story short, skip to post #14

And if you wanted to know where the “snorkel” is on the TW – post #43 on the same thread is a good starting point ……

It occurs to me that we have many new members since that thread was posted - stuff that we “old timers” take for granted, but things that our newcomers need to be aware of from time to time – hence this post

As usual, lizrdbrth has it pretty much nailed, and he is still sorely missed around here

“Obscure” information – perhaps - but things like this can save you from being stranded

The more you understand how and why your bike “works”, the more you’ll get out of it – sometimes we overlook the simple things – or at least, need reminding of them …… ;)
 

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....................................... but to cut a long story short, skip to post #14
Being both cheap and lazy what I have done is simply route one vent hose up and the other one down. I honestly think this will take care of 95% of what the more extensive plumbing does and so far it has worked well for me.

If you look at the carburetor, one vent tube points up and the other down.
PA160033.JPG

T2 ridden by Big D crossing raging waters with Joemama on right and Joeband on the left. The vent tubes on the carburetor were as pictured above.
WaterCross1.jpg
 

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I used 1'4" barb and tubing my wife had around for a garden drip system - good tight fit, still have not done any deep water stuff but feel more confident having it on there.
 

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I think mine had a y from the factory. It had 125 miles when I got it. I don't think anyone did any mods. I always wondered why it was like that but just left it alone. I have been through water nearly to my knees with no issues other than me stalling not giving enough gas because of the extra force going through the water.
 

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Recently, the question of the “Y” link in the carb tube came up – for those of you unfamiliar with it, read here - http://tw200forum.com/forum/technical-help/673-tw-died-water-crossing-carb-vent-solution-offered-2.html

If you have the time and the inclination, the whole thread is well worth reading – but to cut a long story short, skip to post #14

And if you wanted to know where the “snorkel” is on the TW – post #43 on the same thread is a good starting point ……

It occurs to me that we have many new members since that thread was posted - stuff that we “old timers” take for granted, but things that our newcomers need to be aware of from time to time – hence this post

As usual, lizrdbrth has it pretty much nailed, and he is still sorely missed around here

“Obscure” information – perhaps - but things like this can save you from being stranded

The more you understand how and why your bike “works”, the more you’ll get out of it – sometimes we overlook the simple things – or at least, need reminding of them …… ;)
These are great, but all the pics are dead. Hard to picture what they are sayin in those two posts. Anyway someone could update them (copy paste) with pics added for clarity, for the new guys, as you say, lol...
 

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I find it hard to imagine water deeper then your skid plate being an issue. I've been in water at least up to the top of my front rim and got through no problem. I didn't stop though....I'll have to look into this further cause their must be something I'm overlooking.

Now I get it... (I think) the fuel overflow drain hose. When it's blocked by water you can flood your engine with fuel. What would/could cause this to happen? Hitting a rock under water bumping the float and releasing more gas then the engine can swallow? The water at the end of the hose air locks it so it's forced into the engine?

Come to think of it I think my 2015 comes with a Y that ends up under the tank, and while it is plugged off, acts like a boost bottle.
 

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...Come to think of it I think my 2015 comes with a Y that ends up under the tank, and while it is plugged off, acts like a boost bottle.
That is the plugged vent to the California charcoal canister, I don't think it has the same function as the vent tube we are talking about. I believe the fuel overflow hose is a red herring as well. Just put a T or a Y in the vent tube coming off the top left of the (later model) carb and route the new hose up under the tank, as the earlier posts indicated....now you can go as deep as the top of the cylinder....not recommended since the cold water on a hot cylinder is a good way to crack the cylinder :eek:.....but for just a few seconds you can get away with it.
 

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I find it hard to imagine water deeper then your skid plate being an issue. I've been in water at least up to the top of my front rim and got through no problem. I didn't stop though....I'll have to look into this further cause their must be something I'm overlooking.

Now I get it... (I think) the fuel overflow drain hose. When it's blocked by water you can flood your engine with fuel. What would/could cause this to happen? Hitting a rock under water bumping the float and releasing more gas then the engine can swallow? The water at the end of the hose air locks it so it's forced into the engine?

Come to think of it I think my 2015 comes with a Y that ends up under the tank, and while it is plugged off, acts like a boost bottle.

Yeah, unfortunately I have a fast amount of experience sitting in the water washing my socks and TW at the same time! Some of it on video no less and as recently as last Sunday...several times the TW Bee died on me in the deep water. One of the times the water was between my knee and hip while in a sitting on the seat cussing position. Sooner rather than later I pushed the TW close to shore for start up. Only once several years ago did I have to take the air box cover off to let things dry out a bit.

I'm not called the Admiral for nothing!
 

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Zaco, here is what you need in order to see old pics that were downloaded from photobucket.

http://tw200forum.com/forum/tw200-pictures-videos/50209-photobucket-photo-fix-chrome-firefox-browser-users.html
Thank you sweet baby Jesus! :blob3:

That has been annoying the He** out of me for the longest time!

I kinda thought i knew what he was talking about and being able to see the pics confirms it. Thanks again admiral.

This is not entirely different from what i used to do on my Big Red and Recon for the vent on the back diff. No hoses on those vents, like that makes any sense... :cussing:
 

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Our carberators works on the Bernoili principle and as such need the appropriate vents always exposed to atmospheric pressure so that carb's circuitry always sees the proper pressure differentials. Very simple concept and equally simple solution. While "t"s, and tubes and valves have been used and recommended in reality all one has to do is reach down and pull up stock vent tube(s) and position it's open end(s) higher than anticipated fording depth. Extend tube(s) if planning deeper crossings. Just remember to replace tube(s) end back down later so as to restore overflow and carb drain-down features.

Factory sintered brass fitting on base of vent line can also get clogged with mud and debris and make bike not run. I eliminated mine after they got clogged and could not be repaired, thus my ability to pull up and reposition vent line as needed.

Gas tank also needs to have unobstructed venting.

California emission canister and associated tubing needs to be unobstructed, it's charcoal bed can get saturated with fuel if gas tank is frequently over-filled and develop a clogging sludge that makes the bike stall after a short run period.

Larger tubing from intake manifold on newer models that ends in an aluminum fitting under gas tank acts like a surge tower, or plenum, lessening pressure fluctuations in the intake tract as valves close and piston starts it's upward travel. It is not a vent, do not molest.
 

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Larger tubing from intake manifold on newer models that ends in an aluminum fitting under gas tank acts like a surge tower, or plenum, lessening pressure fluctuations in the intake tract as valves close and piston starts it's upward travel. It is not a vent, do not molest.
Yeah that one! I was wondering where and what that did. Sounds like a boost bottle. I've made them for 2 strokes.

So I wonder why I'm getting away with deep water riding...slowing down to 1-2 gear?
 

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Does anyone know what year they went to 1 vent hose (or 2, not sure which way they went). Mine only appears to have 1. Believe my bikes an 06, if i'm remembering correctly. Thanks
 

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Does anyone know what year they went to 1 vent hose (or 2, not sure which way they went). Mine only appears to have 1. Believe my bikes an 06, if i'm remembering correctly. Thanks
I don't, maybe 2001?

You could look at the parts diagrams at any Yamaha parts house to find out easy though. Good luck!
 
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