[decade03]

I feel my TW has lost some of its power, especially going on a gradual uphill, since I replaced the chain and sprockets. Is this normal? Is the bike just adjusting? My old chain would take slopes like a champ, but it was on its last breath and the sprockets were too, so I replaced them with a much better chain and new sprockets, but since then my bike barely wants to go uphill, top speed about 40ish. This happen to anyone?



Completely unrelated or maybe not, but the rear wheel is starting to lose traction and slip on curves. Mechanic said the wheels had life left so I don't know what to make it. Any suggestions?

 

[admiral]

Is there a chance your rear brake is adjusted to tight?



Did you change tooth count when you changed sprockets?



Alignment of your chain?





Just a couple of idea's.

 

[decade03]

hmm interesting, do you think the tightness of the rear break might be the problem? I like the rear break just a bit tight since a loose break makes me edgy. I took the TW to the yamaha dealership to get it fixed so I don't think chain alignment or the sprockets are the problem.

 

[DonBenito]

hmm interesting, do you think the tightness of the rear break might be the problem? I like the rear break just a bit tight since a loose break makes me edgy. I took the TW to the yamaha dealership to get it fixed so I don't think chain alignment or the sprockets are the problem.

When I bought my KLR, I had to explain to the "mechanic" who was giving me the obligatory walk-around that the KLR is, in fact, a carbureted motorcycle, so don't assume that the boys at the dealership service department are necessarily master mechanics. And sadly, a simple bike like the TW is quite likely to be handed off to the newest guy in the shop.



Put your TW up on a stand, milk crate, or swingarm jack (i.e. the famous crutch jack) and see if the back wheel spins freely once off the ground. If the brake is too tight it'll be easy to tell.



If that's not it, count the teeth on your sprockets to see if they actually did put a 14t on the front and a 50t on the back. Everybody makes mistakes.



They might have even overtightened your axle, who knows?



These are pretty easy things to check out yourself, go for it!

 

[decade03]

When I bought my KLR, I had to explain to the "mechanic" who was giving me the obligatory walk-around that the KLR is, in fact, a carbureted motorcycle, so don't assume that the boys at the dealership service department are necessarily master mechanics. And sadly, a simple bike like the TW is quite likely to be handed off to the newest guy in the shop.



Put your TW up on a stand, milk crate, or swingarm jack (i.e. the famous crutch jack) and see if the back wheel spins freely once off the ground. If the brake is too tight it'll be easy to tell.



If that's not it, count the teeth on your sprockets to see if they actually did put a 14t on the front and a 50t on the back. Everybody makes mistakes.



They might have even overtightened your axle, who knows?



These are pretty easy things to check out yourself, go for it!

Thanks man, i'll definitely check the things you mentioned. I'm starting to suspect they made some mistake

 

[Bullspit]

Did you go to an O ring chain? They can be a little stiffer than a worn out standard chain and might rob a little power.



I suspect the rear brake is tight.

 

[yz250f4ever]

I agree with bullspit O ring chains will make you loose quite a bit of power actually. But they last longer. I know this because my buddy works at a shop with a dyno and he dynoed his RMZ450 suzuki for fun with regular DID ERT2 gold non o-ring chain, bike made around 56.6HP then he put his brand new RK o-ring chain and he re dynoed it and it was down to 54.1HP that doesnt seem like much it is over a chain.

 

[assquatch20]

I'd agree with braking being the first thing. The other suggestions are worth looking into as well. Switching to an o-ring chain will make it a little more sluggish, but not as much as you're reporting.



Slim chance, but they may have pinched a wire getting your sidecover back on and that's causing issue. Or the regular old carb issues from sitting a little while or some dirt getting in there.



As a first time rider, I will tell you that you should do your best to start being self-sufficient on bike maintenance. That doesn't mean to get in over your head, but read up around the site, or about bikes in general. Those little maintenance things are a lot more common with bikes, and when it's a brake or chain adjustment, your wallet will thank you if you know how to do it yourself. It just gets too expensive when they charge you for an hour what takes 10 minutes, not to mention a lot of shops simply don't have true professionals in there that will make themselves familiar with a particular bike before they go to it.



I have taken benefit from Dan's MC Repair Course online. I'm trying to link it to you, but the forum is giving me issues right now. Just look it up. It'll teach you a lot of the basics, then you can come here and fine tune that knowledge for your bike.

 

[jckosnow]

novice question: how do you loosen your rear brake?

 

[jckosnow]

novice question: how do you loosen your rear brake?

where that long arm meets the smaller lever attached to the drum brake?

 

[assquatch20]

where that long arm meets the smaller lever attached to the drum brake?

Yep, that little wingnut does most of the adjustment, but the springs inside the hub also play a part. If your bike isn't old they shouldn't be an issue. Refer to the manual on this site to figure out how to properly adjust the nut. Wouldn't want you losing braking ability on the road.

 

[frog13]

[quote name='jckosnow' date='12 March 2013 - 06:33 PM' timestamp='1363127609' post='70323']

where that long arm meets the smaller lever attached to the drum brake?

[/quo



Yes......that is an adjustment for rear brake engagement or disengagement.You should also loosen that up considerably when adjusting your chain.....make sure to place it back to where you had it prior to adjustment(if you had good brake engagement prior?).

 

[small's]

They would have had to change your gearing big time to make it turd out that much. Oring chain wont change it much. I would say its the brake. Other than that they might have done something stupid "hard telling what." changing your gearing a few teeth and an oring chain wont make that much difference.

 

[Rainman]

I've tightened down my rear brake too much once. It was fine on the stand, but I could feel it pull while riding. A couple turns of the wingnut (newer bikes have regular nuts I believe) and I was on my way.



Also, if the rear axle is too tight, it'll pinch the wheel between the swing arm. I really can't see that happening though, but it may have.



I'd check the brake.

 

[Rainman]

"Yes......that is an adjustment for rear brake engagement or disengagement.You should also loosen that up considerably when adjusting your chain.....make sure to place it back to where you had it prior to adjustment(if you had good brake engagement prior"





Excellent advice. If you don't loosen (or just remove) the nut on the brake rod when you adjust your chain, your brakes won't be adjusted properly.

 

[aladdin]

edit

 

[aladdin]

I feel my TW has lost some of its power, especially going on a gradual uphill, since I replaced the chain and sprockets. Is this normal? Is the bike just adjusting? My old chain would take slopes like a champ, but it was on its last breath and the sprockets were too, so I replaced them with a much better chain and new sprockets, but since then my bike barely wants to go uphill, top speed about 40ish. This happen to anyone?



Completely unrelated or maybe not, but the rear wheel is starting to lose traction and slip on curves. Mechanic said the wheels had life left so I don't know what to make it. Any suggestions?

what size sprockets did you have and what size are they now. Sounds like they may have slipped you a different tooth front and or rear sprocket.

 

[admiral]

decade03, find anything out yet.



Hopefully, it is or was something simple such as the brake adjusted to tightly. As others have mentioned, if the shop put on a larger front or smaller rear sprocket, this could cause a similar condition you've described, but you mentioned this happens on a gradual grade, so I'm kind of doubtfull they changed the gearing.

 

[decade03]

decade03, find anything out yet.



Hopefully, it is or was something simple such as the brake adjusted to tightly. As others have mentioned, if the shop put on a larger front or smaller rear sprocket, this could cause a similar condition you've described, but you mentioned this happens on a gradual grade, so I'm kind of doubtfull they changed the gearing.

Well so far I adjusted the wingnut for a slightly looser break, but that didn't change much, if anything at all. I'm starting to guess it has something to do with the sprockets as some others have mentioned, but i'm going to the shop this morning and seeing if they've changed anything that was on before. I'll keep you guys updated in case anyone else has this issue!

 

[decade03]

I'd agree with braking being the first thing. The other suggestions are worth looking into as well. Switching to an o-ring chain will make it a little more sluggish, but not as much as you're reporting.



Slim chance, but they may have pinched a wire getting your sidecover back on and that's causing issue. Or the regular old carb issues from sitting a little while or some dirt getting in there.



As a first time rider, I will tell you that you should do your best to start being self-sufficient on bike maintenance. That doesn't mean to get in over your head, but read up around the site, or about bikes in general. Those little maintenance things are a lot more common with bikes, and when it's a brake or chain adjustment, your wallet will thank you if you know how to do it yourself. It just gets too expensive when they charge you for an hour what takes 10 minutes, not to mention a lot of shops simply don't have true professionals in there that will make themselves familiar with a particular bike before they go to it.



I have taken benefit from Dan's MC Repair Course online. I'm trying to link it to you, but the forum is giving me issues right now. Just look it up. It'll teach you a lot of the basics, then you can come here and fine tune that knowledge for your bike.

Trust me brother i'm definitely on that. Thanks for online course that'll surely help.