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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a new tdub and I just changed out the 50t rear sprocket for a 44t. It's a JT sprocket. I took 4 links out of the chain. I set up the tension on the chain and torqued the axle nut to 65 lbs. I tested it on the road and was really happy with the results. Then I decided to try the trails behind my house. On basically flat dirt and an easy 2 nd gear the chain fell off. It looks like th clip came off the the fastener link. As far as I can tell there is no damage. I know I'm extremely fortunate to not have torn up the clutch cover or locked up the rear wheel. The first thing I did was get it back up on the stand to see what I'd done wrong. The replaced rear sprocket is tight and seems fine. I had set the chain tensioners on 1. 2 seemed way too tight. In the course of inspection I found a slight amount of play in the front sprocket, but searching old posts on here I see that is probably normal (?).



So help me out here, please.



1. Could it be I just didn't get the clip on on the link properly and it fell off? Seemed okay, but maybe I damaged it when i took it off or put it on?

2. Should I worry about a slight amount of play in the front sprocket?

3. Could I have set the chain too tight? Maybe I should have gone with 119 links instead of 118? The tightener settings were both on "1."





Thanks in advance.



-Dan
 

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The locking clip for the master link should be on with the open end facing towards the rear of the bike when it's on the chain that is above the swingarm as opposed to below the swingarm. I hope that makes sense. Check the owners manual for correct chain tension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The locking clip for the master link should be on with the open end facing towards the rear of the bike when it's on the chain that is above the swingarm as opposed to below the swingarm. I hope that makes sense. Check the owners manual for correct chain tension.




Yes, open end of clip facing rear. I tensioned according to the owner's manual, but this is new to me and I'm questioning whether I did it correctly. I think I had at least 1.5 inches of slack, but I could have been wrong. thanks.



Dan
 

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Sounds like you did everything right, just the master link clip came off. No big deal, just reinstall the chain after cleaning and re-oiling it. Install a new master link / clip, reset your chain tension and rotate the wheel while up on the stand to check for binds or tight spots. If you find a tight spot or damaged link, you'll have to replace the whole chain. Make sure both adjusters are on the same # and your good to ride again. I pack a spare master link on my bike and have a spare at the shop "just in case". As for the front sprocket, they all are bit loose as they are spline driven and kinda float on the output shaft. Master links can be a pain, especially if they are older and you try to reuse the keeper, for the price its best replaced each time. The reason for the clip having to be mounted the way they say is if you are sunk in gravel/sand you want the round end hitting the rocks first so it doesnt just get pushed off. Even so, if I have been really bogged down and the chain has been rubbing, stop and check the master link before carrying on as it's just a good habit. So repair that chain and ride on Dan
 

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Yes, open end of clip facing rear. I tensioned according to the owner's manual, but this is new to me and I'm questioning whether I did it correctly. I think I had at least 1.5 inches of slack, but I could have been wrong. thanks.



Dan


"open end of clip facing rear"...on the TOP run of the chain as advised earlier?.
 

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"I have a new tdub " New to you or is it a new bike?





If it is a new bike, you did throw away the stock yamaha (pos) chain right?



  • It's been discussed at length
    how cheap it is. If you still have low miles get a aftermarket o-ring, x-ring or even a premium regular chain and save your sprockets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
"I have a new tdub " New to you or is it a new bike?





If it is a new bike, you did throw away the stock yamaha (pos) chain right?



  • It's been discussed at length
    how cheap it is. If you still have low miles get a aftermarket o-ring, x-ring or even a premium regular chain and save your sprockets.




New bike. 2012. I have an O ring chain on order. I was just to eager to try it out and couldn't wait!
 

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New bike. 2012. I have an O ring chain on order. I was just to eager to try it out and couldn't wait!
The original chain should be easier to work with. When you get the new O-Ring chain, it's the compression of the O-Rings, combined with the supplied lube, that gets tricky. Sometimes it's easier to try to compress and halfway assemble the chain on the bench-to get a feel for it, before putting the chain on the bike. OM
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The original chain should be easier to work with. When you get the new O-Ring chain, it's the compression of the O-Rings, combined with the supplied lube, that gets tricky. Sometimes it's easier to try to compress and halfway assemble the chain on the bench-to get a feel for it, before putting the chain on the bike. OM




will do. thanks.
 
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