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Discussion Starter #1
Haven't been on here for a while, cleaning up after Hurricane Michael and haven't used the bike since then. My problem now is that there is a lot of resistance in twisting the throttle back and forth and it doesn't return back to idle or slow speed when you release the grip from a faster setting. The spring in the carb throttle control is not the problem, that end works fine as I've had the carb off to inspect and clean it. It seems from all the incredible amount of sustained moisture down here recently that it feels like there could be some rust or corrosion inside the cables and sheaths, so I'm wondering how to access this or disconnect them from the twist grip. I would like to try and drip some PB Blaster or oil into the cables to try and loosen them up, or I have to replace them and that means having the same access to the top ends. So I need to know how to get this apart. Thanks.
 

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Two screws on the black throttle case. Easy peasy. Messy process no matter how you do it. Made a big difference on all three of my old bikes.
 
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One thing I have done on different bikes is to use a plastic bag. Once the cables are free at the handlebar clip the corner off a plastic bag. Slip it over the end of the cable any tape it to the outer casing. Then add your favorite lube to the bag. It acts like a funnel. If you can grab hold of the cable and operate it it helps work the lube through.
 

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I have one of those gizmos that clamps to one end of the cable housing and a spray can extension tube fits into an opening... it's a 50/50 as to how well it works, good sometimes terrible other times. GOF's plastic bag method is my favorite and any new cable gets a good soaking in lube before installation. I consider cable maintenance an every other year chore, like changing brake fluid (I do them at the same time), inspecting electrical connectors and checking wheel bearings if I haven't swapped on fresh rubber recently. Unless, of course if I've drowned the bike or ridden in the rain for an entire week (yes, I have done that).
I've become particularly fond of a spray lube from Wurth called HS2000. Comes out of the spray can as a thin red liquid to allow excellent penetration and the carrier evaporates turning the liquid into a greasy coating. Love spraying it into a sandwich bag, sealing the zip lock and then 'forcing' it through the cable with a little pressure while 'jiggling' the cable back and forth through the bag. Have not had a cable fail in... well forever, and I've had some of the bikes more than thirty years.
You'll know you've gotten lube through the cable when there's a mess at the other end (carb or clutch arm).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Two screws on the black throttle case.
My case seems to have only one screw (rusty) on the bottom, I'll have to take another look at it.
Can you just take the cables off the throttle twister or do you have to remove them from the bottom end at the carb, to get the upper ends free?
 

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You don't need to remove them at the carb end, best to lube cables from the top down, let gravity help you out.

I have one of the Motion Pro "cable luber" gadgets also that uses the pressure in a spray can to supposedly force the oil rapidly through the cable. When it works, it works great and oil will come dribbling out the other end in seconds. Other times, oil just sprays everywhere. Both times it makes a mess, usually wrap the end of the cable and the luber clamp in a rag to catch all the leakage. Getting it clamped on correctly and firmly is kind of hit or miss.

The plastic bag method is free, usually less messy, and works well. Cut the corner off the bag, slip it over, and I use a zip tie (tight) to "seal" it to the outer jacket. Spray some oil in, can either let gravity do the work for you or pinch shut and gently squeeze the bag to help it along. Again once you see oil at the other end of the cable you're done.

If you do that and the throttle is still sticky, replace the cables. They've likely frayed internally. Not expensive or difficult to replace, but a shot of lube every year or two goes a long way in helping them last virtually forever.

Do the same with the clutch cable while you're at it. The speedo cable apppreciates some oil now and then, but it's a lot easier. Just unscrew it off the back of the gauge, and put a few drops of oil into the bell-end that mates to the gauge, screw it back on. No gadgets or tricks necessary. The giveaway it needs lube is if the needle on the gauge "wiggles" or "bounces", particularly at higher speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Found the second screw hidden under some dirt from the storm, got them both out and took apart the cable cover. Both the cables are loose, slide freely and easily in their sheaths. The problem with the hard to rotate throttle twist was due to a thin layer of rust on the bar causing a lot of friction, binding up the twist handle. I cleaned it off with some PB Blaster and fine sandpaper to remove the rough coating of rust, cleaned out the plastic interior of the twister, coated the bar with Silicone, Corrosion X, spray lubricant, you name, it, and it rotates freely now. Like I said, the cables run free, the spring return mechanism at the carb end works well, but the twist control doesn't snap back to idle like it should. One day I'll take it apart again and clean it more because that's a safety issue, but it's too cold here to fck with it more today.
So in short, a sticky or hard to turn throttle twist is not always a cable issue, it could be due to dirt or rust underneath the twister itself. Keep that in mind but I'm sure you'll find that if you take it apart.

I did lube up the cables though when I had it apart even though they were working fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've been messing with this for two days now and it's still the same. My throttle twist grip moves freely, spins easily when not connected to the cables, no binding at all. When the cable housing is put back on and it's all together, the throttle rotates freely but it doesn't snap back from a high throttle setting when you release it, back to idle. The cables run freely, and when you pull and release the throttle cable without the covers on the case, it quickly snaps back to the idle position. My return throttle cable is completely free also, no binding. But again, when the cover is put back on, the grip won't snap back to idle. I have thoroughly cleaned and lubed the inside of the case as well as the cables. but something is binding up inside and I can't seem to get this right. I can ride the bike fine, but I would like the throttle to return to idle if I release it instead of having to rotate it back down. Any suggestions about what could be causing this or how to fix it?
Also, that very thin washer between the case and the throttle grip is supposed to be outside the case right, between the case and the grip, not inside the case? That's also clean and lubed a little too, not binding on the case or the grip.
 

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You haven't been pushing the throttle all the way up tight on the bar end have you? I saw this once when someone was having trouble like this. He swore he was getting everything lined up right when putting it together. But I moved the throttle an eighth inch to the right and it was fine. The end of the bar was rubbing against the inside end of the throttle grip.
 

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You haven't been pushing the throttle all the way up tight on the bar end have you? I saw this once when someone was having trouble like this. He swore he was getting everything lined up right when putting it together. But I moved the throttle an eighth inch to the right and it was fine. The end of the bar was rubbing against the inside end of the throttle grip.
+1 on this. Only other times I’ve had sticky throttle was when I installed new bars and risers. Cables didn’t have enough slack until I rerouted them.

And yes, the plastic piece goes between the throttle case and grip.
 
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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
No, I have at least 1/8" between the rubber end of the grip and my hand guard, at least a 1/4" from the plastic end of the grip to the end of the bar, and at least 1/8" between the case and the grip. I was aware of that and slid the whole thing up and down, right and left, on the bar, and it makes no difference, and the grip itself easily rotates anywhere on the bar since I cleaned it off, even projercting out over the end if the bar.
It only won't snap back when the case is on.
Before the storm and all the rain and incredible humidity down here, basically rusting almost everywhere on my bike, I never had this problem. I have replaced my carb with an aftermarket clone and slightly rerouted my cables, but that was a way looong time ago and never was there this problem 'till the bike sat after the storm. Nothing on the bike was changed except removing the throttle grip and cleaning off the bar. Like I said, the cables are totally free and the throttle on the carb instantly snaps back after releasing it. It seem sonly to be related to something binding up inside the case because it only happens when the case is put back together.
 

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I think all TWs have a little nub on the throttle case that needs to line up with a recessed cup on the handlebar. Check to see if yours are lined up. When I swapped to a ProTaper bar, it didn’t have the recessed cup so I had to remove the nub to get the throttle to work properly.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Where is this nub of which you speak? And the recessed cup or dent/dimple in the handlebar? I didn't see anything like that when I took this apart a few times, but I'll look again.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I really want to fix this because I took it out for a short ride today and it's not very safe when you go to grab and apply the front brake and the engine stays revved up. Most of us do not actively retard the throttle when we apply the brake (your hand and wrist don't really work that way), we just sort of release the throttle so the engine slows down.
Also from sitting and the moisture, my front brake seems to be dragging a little, not really releasing the lever at the drum when the handle is let go, so I'll have to take the wheel and hub off and clean that too. PAI.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I don't have that on my bike (a 2000). My bar is solid and smooth, no holes or indents in it.
I don't know if changing the case would solve my problem or not. As far as I know, this case has not been opened since the bike was born until I did it a few days ago. Nothing seems amiss or out of sorts in there, nothing seems worn or broken. it's all cleaned and lubricated now and worked absolutely fine before the storm came and it sat for a few months 'till I found the grip hard to rotate.
One thing I haven't tried is to remove the cables and replace the grip on the throttle tube and see how it turns, but to me it seems like a cable is rubbing or getting stuck on something in there but I can't find what it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
This throttle is driving me nuts. for twp reasons:
1.) It doesn't work right, it binds up and won't return to idle when you release your grip. That is also a safety issue.
2.) I've taken this apart 10 times or more and can't find what's binding in there.

Disassembled, the throttle tube spins freely on the bar shaft. It's all cleaned and lubricated.
Both throttle and return cables move exceptionally freely and are not stuck anywhere.
With the case on the throttle tube and grip, with the cables removed, it rotates back and forth freely, no resistance, so the throttle tube is not binding up in the case. It's all cleaned and lubed in there.
If I put one or the other cable on and put the case together it does not bind up, and if just the throttle cable is on, it snaps back to idle immediately. so the spring on the carb works and the cable doesn't bind in the case.
If i just put the return cable on and the case back together it does not bind up.
If I reconnect both cables and hold them in the appropriate position without the case on, the throttle snaps back to idle as it should.
If I reconnect both cables and put on either the top or bottom of the case, without the other half, the throttle snaps back as it should.
If I have both cables connected and put the case back on, ie, both halves, it binds up and won't return to idle when you release the grip.

I don't know if there are any other combinations to try and wish I had Xray vision to see what's going on inside the case with the cables. I have tried to put a little spacer inside the case to keep the cable sheaths apart a little more, thinking that maybe the exit angle is too acute and that's causing extra friction, and to try and keep the cable from tightening on that part of the throttle tube it rotates around, but these maneuvers have no effect.

So I need some advice or suggestions on what is causing this and how to fix it. Both start and kill switches in the case work well and there's no interference from those inside the case. And buying a new case may not solve this problem and is the easy way out of an attempt to figure out the problem and then fix something. That part is not even available on Partzilla (I just looked out of interest to see what it cost).
 

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You could try to coat the inside of the case with a light coating of powder and see if that tells where it’s binding.
 
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