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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm starting a thread here in the hopes of keeping all the technical stuff in the right thread, yet still have a place to document the work on my '99 bike.

Since I can't pick it up until tomorrow, I thought I'd start ordering some essential parts. I'm using the ProCycle page as a one-stop-shop.

So far, here is my list:
MECHANICAL
AIR FILTER
  • SEAL AIR BOX TW200
  • Uni Air Filter TW200
  • AIR FILTER HIFLO TW200
BRAKES
  • Bel-Ray Super DOT-4 Brake Fluid - 12 oz. <-- EDIT: Drum brakes Front & Rear, so this isn't needed
  • Brake Shoes TW200-All XT225-92-00
  • Front Drum Brake Shoes TW200 87-91
CABLES
  • Cable Luber Tool
  • Dri Slide Moly Lubricant
CHAIN
  • O-Ring Chain EK 428SROZ X 130
  • Heavy Duty Chain Breaker Tool
  • Master Link Oring EK428SROZ
OIL CHANGE
  • FILTER OIL & CLEANER KIT NO TOIL
  • Hi-Flo Oil Filters (5 pack) - TW200 all and XT225 '92-'07
  • OIL CHANGE O-RINGS TW200 XT225
TIRES
  • Inner Tube 180/80-14
  • TUBE4.00/5.10-18
I have NO idea what tires to get. Will be riding 80% pavement with very mild off-road since I'm a uber-nubie. Probably nothing more adventurous than beginner tracks and/or muddy jeep trails in the Blue Ridge mountains.

So far, that's it. That's more than enough to make my wallet cringe, but will give me peace of mind. Do you guys think I should go ahead and refurbish the carb? I don't have the tools to modify the chinese carb replacement everyone seems to like, so maybe cleaning the old one will be okay?

Once this essential work is done, I'll move on to the "Wish List" items.

Comfort Wish List:
RIDING POSITION
  • ProTaper SE ATV High Handlebars
  • Powermadd 2" Handlebar Riser (and associated longer cables)
  • Seat Concepts Foam and Cover Kit
WINTER RIDING
  • MOOSE SEAT WARMER KIT
  • BikeMaster Heated Grips
LIGHTING
  • ProCycle TW200 LED Tail Light
  • LED Turn Signal Resistor Kit (&/or LED Signal Diode Kit -- not sure if both are needed)
  • Tuff Lites Flexible LED Turn Signals
  • 3800 Lumen LED Headlight Bulb (though eventually I want a completely different headlight)

Looking forward to the forum's input and advice.
 

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Sounds like you have a lot of stuff covered. Some standard mods are a 15 tooth front sprocket to get you a little more top end if you think you will be doing any highway riding. I think it's geared pretty good stock but some like a little more top speed. You will lose a little low speed if you're concerned about that. Also while the back tire is adequate for trail use the front is some what lacking. There is a thread somewhere about what is good, bad and ugly. I myself am getting a Pirelli MT 21, 140/80 - 18 for the front. Pirelli MT 21 Rallycross Rear Tire - Motorcycle Superstore. I am in the process of trying to get a Duro Power Grip mounted up on the rear.

As far as your carb the only way to know for sure if it needs some help is to take a look at it. You can kind of inspect it with out having to remove it. Take the seat, tank, and throttle cables off and loosen the clamps on the in and out boots of the carb. Then you can rotate the top out to the right side and get at the float bowl screws from the left and get at the top of the carb from the right. Take that off and look inside and that will give you an idea of whether it needs a full fledged cleaning. If it don't look too bad and seems to be starting and running fine I would just go get a can of Sea Foam and put about a quarter can in a five gallon jug of good fresh gasoline and run that through it for the next couple of weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Went looking for OEM parts at yamahapartshouse.com, and see there is a listing under 1999 for TW200L and TW200LC. Does anyone know the difference between the two? They look the same to my eyes, but I'm not a mechanic.:confused:
 

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The only difference I have found between the Cali models and the rest of the world is carb jetting.

Something else I forgot to mention is I would get the bike in hand, run it round the yard a couple of times and then take it out on the road for a ten minute jaunt. Come back home and change all the lubricants; engine oil, fork oil, brake fluid....etc. Clean the air filter. Every one says " I just changed the ***". Can't trust them. Then ride it around for a week or two before you start changing anything major. See what you like, what you don't like and what you live with. Then prioritize your cash expenditures.
 

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One of the main changes they made to the TW in 2001, was the introduction of “more electricity” — to wit, the previous standard was almost doubled.

You have a ‘99

That 3400 lumen headlight alone (though the exact wattage equivalent figure can be argued) is likely to pull more juice than the bike can supply. Add to that the suggestion of heated grips, heated seat — and the bike will be dead in 30 mins.

I have a ’98 — the most I could do was to put a 2400 lumen LED in there. The gain from LED tail light and indicators is negligible (though still worth doing).

(And well done for asking, before you spent money on creating a problem) …………
 

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Discussion Starter #8
She's Home!

After a good day at work, I hitched the trailer to the old granny car and headed north. After a 2 1/2 hour ride, I finally arrived. Met the seller, paid the rest of the fee, loaded her up, and brought her back home! :D

TW200ComingHome.jpg

Crazy to think I spent 5 hours on the road! But it's worth it. Reminds me of the trip I took to buy my very first bike almost 3 decades ago - but that was a solid 4 hours out L:pL!

Can't wait to get that box of parts and start tearing her down so I can build her back up again! YaY!

Tomorrow I'll head up to city hall to transfer the title, then peruse the 3-ring binder the guy gave me. After a quick glance, the original owner was pretty meticulous in keeping the bike in shape. The guy I bought it from was the second owner and admitted he didn't do much of anything for maintenance because it was seldom ridden.

3 things I know I want to do immediately:
  1. Change the Oil
  2. Change the Air Filter
  3. Change the Brakes
The brakes felt like they were sticking when I pushed it into the back yard. And, yes, it was in neutral :rolleyes: Probably just a little corrosion from sitting for a while.

It's late, but I'm too excited to sleep! Geeze, it's exciting to have another project again. :toothy10:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was going to post a video inspection of the bike, but it appears I need to upload to YouTube first, and I just don't have the energy to edit stuff tonight.
So here's a photo of the new baby and current cross-country transport. Yes, that is... or was, an old prison bus. Now it is a home-built RV.
TW200 in backyard2.jpg

It needs an inspection for next month, but I'm SO looking forward to getting out there and finding places to ride this summer. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
She's officially MINE!

Made it to the DMV before they closed after work today. Got the bike officially titled in my name and paid my dues to the City.
Now to sell at least 1 of my other bikes so I can afford to insure, inspect & tag this puppy. ;)

In the mean time, here are some glamor shots. If I wait to edit the video from yesterday, you guys will never see this thing. :rolleyes:

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Slide5.JPG

...
 

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Discussion Starter #11

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Discussion Starter #12

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Nice! I'll take a stab at some of these.
Quirk #1 have you had the seat off yet? It could just be that it is not clipped in properly in front.
Quirk #2 if those horns work, they must be an improvement over the pathetic stocker. If you keep them though, you might want to spin the open mouth down so it's not catching rain.
Quirk #3 it's not stock, I would guess a PO was trying to conserve electricity by not using the headlight during the day. Not a bad idea, especially if you plan on adding anything, like GPS, heated grips/seat, etc.
Question #1 Yes, there should be one on each side.
Question #2 It certainly appears to be a normal chain.
Question #3 The one time (so far) I dropped my bike, I had fuel slop out the carb on that side. If that has happened a few times without being wiped off, it would collect crud.
Question #4 That is the kickstand safety switch, it kills the bike if you put the stand down when it is in gear. I believe it also prevents you from starting in gear with the stand down. *Edit- As Admiral points out below, this is of course the rear brake light switch.*
Question #5 that tire looks good, and if it is only 5 years old it should be ok, but I would want to hear what someone with more experience than me has to say. I would seriously recommend getting rid of that huge clip on the end of the axle, replace it with a small split pin, that thing is just begging to take a giant chunk out of your calf.
Those are some nice upgrades already installed, and your plans sound good. You certainly look happy, just wait until you get out on it!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
First foray into the bike's innards

Didn't get time to do more than scratch the surface of the bike this weekend. But I was able to do a couple of minor things.
First, I turned the horns over. They are pathetic - I can't imagine them ever being louder than the mouse fart they squeak out now. But after Friday evening's rain, they were also full of water, so maybe that's the problem and they'll dry out and make a dog's fart sound instead. Is there any reason not to put a stock horn back on the front where it was originally? I'd even consider putting it on the cowling up front if that would help. What have others done with the horn?
20150531_110449.jpg

After reading the posts about making quick-release posts for the seats, I headed out to the local ACE Hardware store. The guys are getting used to seeing me ask for specialty fasteners by now after coming in for some stuff for the Nomad. Unfortunately, they didn't have a M6 cotter pin like the one pictured on the forum. But the guys were helpful and cut down a 4" M6 threaded rod to two pieces and with a little locktite to hold the wingnuts and spacers, we came up with a "make-do" bolt.
20150531_131336.jpg

Unfortunately, it's a little too short. It works, but the wingnuts push against the frame, making it difficult to turn. Not exactly a "quick release" fastener. I may have to see if it's possible to put threads on the pins they have...
20150531_174135.jpg

While the seat was off, I decided to explore under the side plastics. I found the airbox... and all the wonderful critters who tried to make it home. Luckily, I have a box of air and oil filters and associated bits & pieces on the way from ProCycle. Should be fixed next week.
20150531_111021.jpg

I think I might want to change to an o-ring chain and install new sprockets at the same time. I don't care about screaming along at top speed, but need to be able to reliably cruise at 55mph to keep up with local commuter traffic. However, I would still like to be able to power through some mud and hills at the local bike track. I will need to get a good feel for dirt riding before tackling the mountain tracks I want to do later this summer, and the local track offers a variety of dirt trails with some minor challenges (mostly muddy holes I've been told). What combination of front and rear sprockets would work the best for this combination of beginners riding?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay, so I realize the above post was barely an 'innard' discovery session. Not really. But Damnit Jim, I'm a RIDER, not a MECHANIC! :D Trying to do this stuff myself without going to the bike shop is an adventure for me. :p

I was able to ride it around the neighborhood this afternoon. Splashed some SeaFoam in the tank then took it up to the local gas station and filled it up with new gas. Rode it for a half hour leisurely tour through the back streets, totally enjoying the little bike's stability and handling. It felt a little funny in the turns: I couldn't tell if that was due to the knobby tires or if the pressure was low. Between that, the unfamiliar riding position, and that stock seat, I was starting to feel a little cramped by the time I got it back home.

I have always ridden bikes with forward controls or with foot pegs where I could stretch my legs as I rode. Has anyone made forward foot rests? It wouldn't have to be fancy, and would ideally be removable for off-roading. Just something to allow your feet to sit in a different position. If no one else has done this in the past, I may have to try making something. There's no way I could ride all day with my knees bent like that - no matter how comfortable the seat happens to be.

The only thing I can do in the mean time to help this situation is add a set of taller handlebars so I can scoot back on the seat (which will require longer cables) and buy the Custom Seat padding everyone recommends. The seat may put me on my toes (how can such a small bike be so tall?!? ;) ), but it's a better alternative to numb-butt.

One day, I would really like to tackle the Trans American Trail like my cousin did (check out her site Pursuit Horizon | Pursuit Horizon - A Motorcycle Adventure Documentary), or look up Pursuit Horizon on Facebook). If SHE could do it on a Honda CBR 650, then my fat butt should be able to handle it on a TW200...

...probably...

well, maybe...

okay not after some serious training and more mechanical skills. But I'm working towards it!
 

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Didn't get time to do more than scratch the surface of the bike this weekend. But I was able to do a couple of minor things.
First, I turned the horns over. They are pathetic - I can't imagine them ever being louder than the mouse fart they squeak out now. But after Friday evening's rain, they were also full of water, so maybe that's the problem and they'll dry out and make a dog's fart sound instead. Is there any reason not to put a stock horn back on the front where it was originally? I'd even consider putting it on the cowling up front if that would help. What have others done with the horn?
View attachment 17997

After reading the posts about making quick-release posts for the seats, I headed out to the local ACE Hardware store. The guys are getting used to seeing me ask for specialty fasteners by now after coming in for some stuff for the Nomad. Unfortunately, they didn't have a M6 cotter pin like the one pictured on the forum. But the guys were helpful and cut down a 4" M6 threaded rod to two pieces and with a little locktite to hold the wingnuts and spacers, we came up with a "make-do" bolt.
View attachment 17998

Unfortunately, it's a little too short. It works, but the wingnuts push against the frame, making it difficult to turn. Not exactly a "quick release" fastener. I may have to see if it's possible to put threads on the pins they have...
View attachment 17999

While the seat was off, I decided to explore under the side plastics. I found the airbox... and all the wonderful critters who tried to make it home. Luckily, I have a box of air and oil filters and associated bits & pieces on the way from ProCycle. Should be fixed next week.
View attachment 18000

I think I might want to change to an o-ring chain and install new sprockets at the same time. I don't care about screaming along at top speed, but need to be able to reliably cruise at 55mph to keep up with local commuter traffic. However, I would still like to be able to power through some mud and hills at the local bike track. I will need to get a good feel for dirt riding before tackling the mountain tracks I want to do later this summer, and the local track offers a variety of dirt trails with some minor challenges (mostly muddy holes I've been told). What combination of front and rear sprockets would work the best for this combination of beginners riding?
In my opinion the factory 14/50 is the sweet spot gearing combo for this bike, good enough for around town and back roads and low enough trail riding. I know there is a lot of gearing discussion about gearing here but in my opinion at the end of the day folks are trying to turn the TW into something its not. If you need to be able to sustain 55mph you may want to look into another bike or ride one of the others you own, the TW is simply not the right tool for this job and no amount of gearing change will fix that. It has way to little power, can't get out of its own way at that speed and isn't a super stable platform at that speed either.

I would ride it as it is for a while so you can get a feel for what it can and cant do before you make any real changes to it.
 

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As jb says - stock gearing is 14/50 which suits the bike in a variety of circumstances. Mine will do a steady 60mph on the flat on that gearing - doesn't seem to be stressing out the engine at all, just "buzzes" along - still get enough torque between 0 and 30 to suit most trails I get over here ......
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks, guys. I'll stick with the 14/50.
 
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