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Discussion Starter #1
2 days ago I finally completed 2000 km on my 2014 tee dub. I've been waiting all year to get synthetic into the motor and finally did it. the first surprise was when I went to put it in to gear and the bike jumped and stalled the engine. I then when for a ride and was impressed with the oil as the motor was quieter and had more power, mostly on top end. now feels good at 100 kmph. what I don't understand is the clutch needing to be broken free every time I start out, even after an hour of sitting it will not roll if in gear will the clutch in ( engine off) is this normal with mobil 1 t4? i'm thinking of taking it out and trying another brand
 

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I use the same oil and don't have any clutch sticking issues. You're using 10w-40 Mobil 4t motorcycle oil? LINK Maybe a clutch adjustment issue.
 

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grewen, if it bugs you the way the bike is behaving now......change the oil. You already know it is a cheaper fix than most fixes, and you have experience changing the oil. While "I" would not use the Mobil 1 mx4t oil....there are folks on here that do use it, with success. In answer to your question, "I" would use the plain old Mobil 1 oil, designed and meant for automotive use, and not specially bottled and decorated up for motorcycle use. But that is because I am different than 93.14159 % of the "people" on this forum :p

Quick and simple tip here. Run your bike with the mx4t oil in it for 100 miles, or......150 kilometers...your choice. And if you still experience the clutch difficulty, change the oil and install a normal 10w-30 petroleum oil in the engine. Now run that for 100 miles, or....150 kilometers.....again, your choice. Did the clutch improve with this oil change ?
Sweet...........Im in the 6.85841% club :)
 

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Simple tip to help alleviate/mitigate that clunk is to start with the clutch pulled in. Once running and with the bike in neutral pull the the clutch leaver in and release a couple of times before putting it into first. Seems to "lube things up" a bit.
 

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I've run several different oils in my Dub including 4T with out any problems. Seems strange a simple oil change can cause the clutch to stick. Unless your using 20/50wt. in the cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I thought it strange too, Xracer as it did it on the very first start up and it worked great with yamalub semi synthetic. i'm using 10-40 and it's hot out. I think like TWilight says, give it a few more miles, maybe just too clean
 

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Discussion Starter #7
TWilight, I thought there was additives in ordinary motor oil that did hurt our wet clutches. you don't have any problems using it?
 

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TWilight, I thought there was additives in ordinary motor oil that did hurt our wet clutches. you don't have any problems using it?
"Some" do. But if you read on any motorcycle forum you will see the people that make "motorcycle" oil have done an OUTSTANDING job of convincing people they NEED "motorcycle" oil. And of course "motorcycle" oil costs more because they have to design and then print a picture of a motorcycle on every single bottle.
 

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I just love oil threads, well because (at least in my mind:cool:) I actually know what I'm talking about, hah! Well first off I agree with scotti158 and would check clutch adjustment. Could be a bit too much free play. Next, I always told myself that since Tdub only uses 1 quart of oil don't be a penny pincher and buy the best oil you can afford. So in 11,000+ miles I've tried many, mostly synthetics (expensive). I've settled on Red Line 20w/50 for several reasons. One of which is smooth clutch engagement. They now make a motorcycle specific oil and after CA tax it was over $17 a quart, :eek:OMG! Napa was the only place I could find it. Well at least I can ride in peace knowing I've got the most expensive oil on the planet in the Tdub. Does anyone know of a more expensive oil? If so let me know why you like it.

Best regards, MAC
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
my clutch is adjusted out to the end, any more and it will be slipping. I just changed oil again today, put in royal purple this time and it cost me more than $17 a liter but with our shitty dollar it is hard to compare to the cost of your red line. I went for a ride and everything worked great, but after the bike cooled down it was the same with the clutch as before. hard to roll the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in. i'll ride for a while and if it doesn't change then i'll go back to crude oil
 

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So your issue is rolling the bike in gear with clutch in, engine off? If so I have the 100% fix......................................DONT DO IT! :) Put it in neutral, then push or pull your bike to your hearts content. There...........that didnt cost a penny :)
 

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Just to be sure I had to go downstairs in the basement and check. There are 5 bikes currently in my basement, the 4 in my sig along with my girlfriends 83 Honda Shadow that I just did some maintenance on. Heres a shameless pic of it :)



Good looking bike eh? :)

Anyway.........I rolled (in slippers and pajama bottoms :) ) each one back n forth a foot or so in neutral. Perfectly smooth and easy. Put each in first and rolled to be sure they were in gear, pulled in the clutch and pushed. All 5 have a noticeable high resistance to pushing until the clutch breaks free. Once broke free they were quite a bit easier to push but not as easy as being in neutral. With the exception of the sportster, I didnt try real hard..........but it didnt break free.

So again, if not rolling easily in gear, clutch in, engine off is your problem..............its not a problem................put it in neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks TWROG all that worry for nothing, I don't know how many times I've been to the garage with all most nothing on to check the bike, thanks for checking yours
 

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Put the Mobile 4T 10w 40 Syn in the 2014 right before we left on our Great Lakes trip....changed over at 1333 miles, here we are at 2880 and no issues at all....I will change it again before winter garaging.
 

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Just to be sure I had to go downstairs in the basement and check. There are 5 bikes currently in my basement, the 4 in my sig along with my girlfriends 83 Honda Shadow that I just did some maintenance on. Heres a shameless pic of it :)



Good looking bike eh? :)

Anyway.........I rolled (in slippers and pajama bottoms :) ) each one back n forth a foot or so in neutral. Perfectly smooth and easy. Put each in first and rolled to be sure they were in gear, pulled in the clutch and pushed. All 5 have a noticeable high resistance to pushing until the clutch breaks free. Once broke free they were quite a bit easier to push but not as easy as being in neutral. With the exception of the sportster, I didnt try real hard..........but it didnt break free.

So again, if not rolling easily in gear, clutch in, engine off is your problem..............its not a problem................put it in neutral.
I can't even imagine carrying that thing up and down the basement stairs. :D
 

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I can't even imagine carrying that thing up and down the basement stairs. :D
Ha, in the south theyre call a daylight basement with a boat door :) I love it, have the basement is unfinished and is where I do all my bike maintenance. Cool in the summer, warm in the winter :)

Found a pic that shows it with the old ironhead I had.

 

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TW_in_BC, I just noticed the 2001 TW with over 47,000 kms!!!
So I gotta ask which oil got you that far ?
How cool is that, 47k, congratulations!!!

best regards, MAC
 
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