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Here is a copy of the instructions I used to install my kickstart kit. I copy it here, because the forum it's on requires you become a member and login to see the photos. This will give you a pretty good idea of the skills and tools needed to do the job. If you can follow these instructions, have the tools, you could save your self some coin!

Hope this helps;

While someone might be intimidated by the installation of a kick-starter on their T-dub, let me just assure you that it's a snap. The only special tools that you'll need is a torque wrench that can go from as low as 5 ft/lbs to as high as 36 ft/lbs, a set of lock-ring pliers, and a 24mm socket. If you have that, and can change your oil, then you can do this mod.

So you can change your own oil right? Good, because that's where you'll start... drain your oil, and remove the filter cover and filter. While you're at it, remove t̶h̶e̶ ̶e̶n̶g̶i̶n̶e̶ ̶s̶t̶a̶r̶t̶e̶r̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ the bolts that hold the right side foot-peg assembly (can you call it a rear-set on this bike? I dunno.) in place, and swing it out of the way.

I taped the bike's ignition key to the oil that I'd need to refill the crankcase with before starting it again. Why? Because I knew that after getting the bike put back together with the fancy new old-school kick-starter, I'd probably forget to put oil in it, kick it over, and celebrate my success... right before seizing the engine. Have I done this before? no. Am I cautious? yes.

After a few minutes of the oil draining, and you're pretty confident that it's all out, it's time to remove the right side engine cover. This is easy, but keep in mind that many of the bolts are different lengths. A good idea, if you think you might get them confused, is to draw a pattern of the case by tracing the new gasket on a piece of paper or cardboard. When a bolt comes out, poke it through its proper location on your template. After removing all of the bolts, gently pull the engine cover straight off of the engine.

Your clutch is that big round silver thing looking you in the face, and it needs to come off too. Remove the 4 outer screws and springs, and the clutch cover and disks will come right out. Do not remove the center bolt from the clutch cover. Once the clutches are out, you're left with the clutch basket... which also needs to come off. There's a retaining washer that needs to be bent out of the way to remove the big bolt in the middle, which holds the basket on. Once you have the tabs bent down, remove the big nut. There's a special tool for holding the clutch basket, and you can go buy one if you want. You can also use an impact wrench, and that bolt will come right off. I didn't have either of those, so I got creative. I remounted the rear wheel brake lever, put the transmission in gear, used my foot to hold the brake, and turned the bolt off with a socket. Worked flawlessly:

Clutch basket removed, here's where you're at:

Time to install your kick-starter axle assembly, and the idle gear. I did the kick-starter axle first. It's good practice to lubricate axles and bearing races as you assemble, so don't forget to do that. There's a horseshoe clip on the backside of the axle assembly (sorry, no pics) that has a barb sticking out of it. this faces the engine, and fits into a groove that's there just for it on the bottom of the case. Make sure to line this up properly, or things won't work right and you might even damage something. Cock the spring around clockwise and place it over the shaft as shown in the picture below. To install the idler, remove the lock-ring washer that Yamaha has placed over the idler axle, as well as the spacer behind it. Install your new washer, idler gear, another washer, and new lock-ring.

And that's pretty much that. Reinstall your clutch basket in the same manner as you removed it (utilizing your brake while the bike is in gear), making sure to follow your factory manual's torque specs. It's good practice to use new lock-washers, so make sure to have one handy. It's a funny looking little guy, and fit's only one way. Don't forget to bend those tabs back up. Reinstall the clutch discs and plates, as well as the cover and springs. Follow your factory manual torque specs. Make sure that the mating surfaces on both the engine and the engine cover are spotless, that is, with NO residual material from the old gasket, then place your new gasket over the roll-pins that align the two engine parts. If the roll-pins came off with the engine cover, just pull them out and stick them in the holes on the engine case. Drive out the plug that Yamaha installed on the engine cover to fool you into thinking that your bike shouldn't have a kick-starter. I used a 3/8" socket extension, and a light whack with a hammer on the backside of the plug. Place the engine cover back on the engine, making sure that you have the right bolts in the right spots. Torque to spec using a criss-cross pattern... much like torquing lug-nuts. Reinstall the oil filter and cover... torque to spec. Once the engine cover is good to go, install the oil seal over the kick-start axle. Make sure that the U-channel with the spring in it is facing towards the engine. Seat the seal.

You've got it on the run now... install the kick-start lever assembly onto the axle, and torque the bolt to spec. Reinstall the foot-peg assembly (or rear-set or whatever) using thread-lock on the bolts, and torquing to spec. Reinstall the starter and torque to spec. Presto!

Here's what you should be left with... a TW200 with a fully functional kick-starter, and a couple of parts that came off during install:

Now where are my keys? Oh right! Oil... I almost forgot!!
Finish up that oil change, and give it a Kick!
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