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Discussion Starter #1
I bought an 8 gallon Action Packer. I set it on top of the Cyclerack and in many ways it is a very good fit with the rack and with the bike. Being gray and black it also matches the colors of my 2008. I like it.





I spent about an hour this evening trying to figure out a way to mount this. I carried a bunch of metal back and forth from Old White Truck’s scrap pile and didn’t figure anything out. I even made some felt pen marks here and there. Still nothing was looking satisfactory.



I stood with my hands on my hips and turned my head sideways – no luck.

I sat on the chopping block and mimicked Rodin’s The Thinker pose – I looked damn impressive but… still nothing.

I repeatedly and slowly pulled my beard with my thumb and forefinger – for a minute there I thought I had something – but no.

Finally I pulled out all the stops and asked my dog. He looked at me, then looked at the rack, then tilted his head sideways and… picked up his ball and dropped it at my feet. Man’s Best Friend indeed.



Does anyone else have any ideas? Typically I put a pair of flat bars under the rack and then run 4 bolts up through the bottom of drilled holes in the container/trunk. This time I am looking for a better or different idea or pics of how someone else has done it.



(Not that it helps me, but at times like this I really like Toyanvil’s latest custom-made rack wherein he incorporated a pair of lateral bars with rows of holes. That was a great idea.)



My creative juices are not flowing and my dog is an idiot. Help!
 

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">Don,t know if this helps, but I welded on these 3/16x1" barstock tabs to mount my ammo can with 5/16" bolts and lock nuts. I tried wingnuts first, but they vibrated loose quickly.
 

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Depends on wheather or not you want to remove the action packer eaily / quickly. I mounted a larger pelican case to my cyclerack using 4 ea 5/16 U bolts with the nuts inside the case. I used fender washers, nyloc nuts, and cut the bolts off flush with a die grinder. You can pad the nuts as desired. Some people make a fitted plywood liner for the bottom of the action packer. rw
 

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It's not an Action Packer, but here's how I mounted my Pelican case.



I used a 1" board (3/4" actual thickness) under my case and some 3/8" U-bolts over the crossmembers of the rack through the board and the bottom of the case. This mounting method has been rock solid.



 

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I use a method similar to Howard, above, but went ahead and welded 5/16 nuts to the bottom of the tabs before welding them to the rack. Then, bolts with fender washers are screwed in from the inside of the box. I thought about a whole plywood bottom inside to bolt through, but opted for plywood washers under the fender washers since the bottom of the box is not flat.



I laid my TW over in a mud hole Saturday and the box came through without a scratch, though it is not waterproof.



I'd like a Pelican case of the same size but I don't think they make one. For $18, the utility box is a good value.



Good luck.
 

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i use these things i got from a plumbing supplier they work perfect i just clamped them on to my cyclerack and tightened them up and then used a lock nut to the bolt that tightens them down just to keep them from coming loose then i used a paint marker on top of the 3/8 nut that is welded to the bracket to mark the bottom of the box to show were to drill the 4 holes it worked perfect and the box comes on or off in minutes you can also add 3/8 eye hooks to the brackets and use them for tying stuff to your cycleracks and they will not damage your rack theyv will go any where on your cyclerack i also used rubber strips between the box and rack to keep the box from scratching the rack i have had them on the box now with no problems
 

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i'm planning on mounting my milk crate a little better on my moose rack...both TW-Brian's u-bolt idea and Ridgeline's cushion clamp idea are great!...i would like to make my crate a little more easily removable but at the same time not have any slop...not sure how i'm going to do this but i'm playing around with a few ideas at the moment
 

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Instead of a piece of plywood inside the aluminum case (from Harbor Freight) I mounted on my cyclerack, I used a polypropelene cutting board to add support to the bolts and washers going through the bottom. It won't rot or delaminate and is easy to clean and is cheap enough. I have clamps made of aluminum strap, lined with rubber from an old inner tube, around the bars on the cyclerack that the bolts go through. Sturdy and also cheap.

In addition to the U clamps that TW-brian used, you can also find J clamps that will fit around the cyclerack bars, and is just one less hole to drill and line up.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
In addition to the U clamps that TW-brian used, you can also find J clamps that will fit around the cyclerack bars, and is just one less hole to drill and line up.


Thanks everyone for your advice and thanks for taking the time to reply! This evening I am getting close to finishing. I have used a bits and pieces of ideas from everyone and I am using some J-hooks that I got at Ace Hardware. Hopefully I can post some photos in the next couple of days.



Ridgeline - those plumbing supply clamps that you show are very interesting. Do you know what they are called?



You guys that can weld really make me jealous. Welding on a couple of tabs would have been great. I would also LOVE to be able to weld on the plates that allow mounting dual tool tubes under the rack like Toyanvil and others have done.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the many good ideas. I used bits and pieces from all of them.



I decided to use J-bolts. This only requires loosening 4 wing nuts to remove the Action Packer.



I obtained all the parts at Ace Hardware. However, the only J-bolts they had were too long and they did not have threads that extended low enough. The “U” shape at the bottom of the J-bolt was also not quite wide enough to go around the Cyclerack cross tubes.



A little bit of hammer work and grinding easily opened up the J-bolts enough to go around the rack tubes. Then, cutting off the excess length and using a die to extend the threads made the bolts work perfect.



It may have been overkill, but I also cut a piece of 1/4” masonite to line the bottom of the Action Packer and spread out the force exerted by the 4 mounting bolts. If I was going to do this again, I would take mrlmd’s suggestion and use a polypropelene cutting board instead of masonite (since the polypropelene would be waterproof). The bottom of the Action Packer is a very weird design and it took quite a while to get the correct shape for the bottom liner. (If anyone else is going to do this, I could send you a tracing of the bottom liner to save you some time).



Ace Hardware also had Nylock wing nuts. Although they were expensive, it seems like they will eliminate vibration loosening worries.





Here are the parts. The J-bolt on the left is what Ace sells and the other one is what it looks like after the modifications I made. ↓













Here are the parts sitting on the piece of masonite that I cut out to line the bottom. ↓













Putting the holes here situated the back of the Action Packer to rest against the Cyclerack upturn. ↓













The inside after installation. ↓













The back. ↓













Detail of one of the front J-bolts. ↓



















The colors of the Action Packer match the 2008 TW colors (although it would be nice if the handles were black instead of red). ↓











Now out to the trails to see how everything holds up.



Thanks for all y'all's input.
 

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I mounted my action packer on a piece of 3/4 exterior plywood that was routed sanded and sealed to keep out the wet stuff. I just got a photo bucket account but don't know how to upload yet.
 

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IMGhttp://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a597/DavidGibson65/th_IMG_0025_zps892f2978.jpg_0025_zps892f2978 Well this should be the photo of part of my action packer mounting board.
 

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Put a piece of rubber (old inner tube or similar) under the j-bolts, or some shrinkwrap tubing on them, to protect the finish on the cyclerack from getting scratched or abraded.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Put a piece of rubber (old inner tube or similar) under the j-bolts, or some shrinkwrap tubing on them, to protect the finish on the cyclerack from getting scratched or abraded.
mrlmd,

Thanks for your idea. I just went out and put some heat-shrink tubing over the exposed portion of the J-bolts. You are right, that should help keep the rack from getting scratched up.





By the way, I went trail riding in the boonies last weekend and the Action Packer and the mounts were as solid as a rock.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
IMGhttp://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a597/DavidGibson65/th_IMG_0025_zps892f2978.jpg_0025_zps892f2978 Well this should be the photo of part of my action packer mounting board.


Bugman,



Those mounting blocks look nice.



If you type the following text in your post the picture will show up. Type it exactly like this:

Code:
[img]http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a597/DavidGibson65/th_IMG_0025_zps892f2978.jpg_0025_zps892f2978[/img]




It looks like you are using HDPE? For my other bike I just finished building a rack base out of a full piece of black HDPE. TAP Plastics sells black HDPE in many thicknesses including 1-inch. That stuff is easy to work with and won't scratch the rack - it works out pretty good.
 

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Thank you OWT for the photo posting tip as I will have some more photos of my TW200 add on to show later. The white plastic mounting blocks you see in the photos is 7/8ths square nylon plastic scrap from my work that they just throw away. It works great to keep from scratching the powder coating. I heated up and pressed in some 5/16ths T nuts into the nylon to keep the profile underneath close and to keep it more thief proof. More picts. to come if I can get them to post. Cheers.
 
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