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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I picked up a 89 Tdub last fall. The guy said the carb was cleaned by the local shop but it wasn't starting. I gave him $1100 for it. Maybe it was a bit much. But hey got a nice project bike.
The odometer reads 13400km. So not that much use in its 25 years. tw200.jpg

The bike sat all winter against my shed. Now as spring rolled through I have assessed its condition put new gas in it and got it to start pretty easy, with a fresh battery charge. But it likes to start better with the kick start. I drove it a bit around the block, after a few minutes it was choking on itself. Sputtering with a turn of the throttle with some backfiring. I got it home then let it idle for a while the tried it again. With a successful lap around the block, I decided to take a trip down to the garbage dump drop some garbage off. The bike worked great. I was still not too use to the bike so I was taking it slow. Ended up getting tailgated hard by the city slicker in a sleek suv. I flipped him the bird which just made him angry and he tailgated me more then followed me to the dump to give me a piece of his mind. I am a kind person so I kept my cool and explained to him calmly that his point of view was completely distorted by road rage. He said I was obstructing traffic, I was only going 10km/h less then the posted. In the end I told him it is about safety and nothing more. How can you argue with that really. So he just left it was quite funny. Anyway the bike ran great back home as well. The next day I go to use it the sputtering issue is back, and never left.

So I have a 25 year old Tw200 project. Super excited. First thing I did was order the clarke tank because the stock tank was filled with layers of old goop from old gas sitting in it to much over the years. I can probably clean this out and sell it. That didn't fix it so I got on this TW forum and did the research. Chances are good that it is the carb running to rich. So suiting my style, new to all this bike maintenance but not afraid to tinker, I say to myself its the carb that needs tinkering lets have at it. Well if the carb needs to be tinkered I might swell replace the exhaust and air filter, pull the air box clean it out, re-jet the carb to work with the new airflow, clean the carb of course rebuild it the best I can. Then I got click happy on pro cycle ordered new handle bar and heated grips. My friend was selling his Dr650 so I asked him to sell me his Teton Pannier. So I'm in the midst of a full on profect.

The other day I pulled the carb off and dismantled it and am set-up to give it a clean here soon. I ordered the 6sigma for rejecting so I will see what that is all about. They gave me 3 jets, the thing that confuses me is the drill bit and screw in one of the bags. We will see.....:eek::p should be fun, Carb pics to come


Love Of Endangerment - Working to build a site of Adventure Based in and Around Whistler BC : Love Of Endangerment
 

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Not sure if it's posted , but por15 makes a gas tank cleaner kit. I saw it when was searching for a por15 product for my rust rock rails for my Jeep.
 

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Dietz NEEDS your old tank if it's still perfect or near perfect on the outside. Get some new fork boots along with the Clarke tank.
http://tw200forum.com/forum/tw200-classifieds/10612-wtb-factory-blue-gas-tank.html


How hard did mr SUV hit you? what an arse.

PS: the brill bit is for removing the factory plug over the pilot screw adjustment, which will have to be removed for cleaning (take note of how many turns out the factory placement is). New carbs are still available at about $250-$300, since you only paid $1100 this might be your best route to get on the road properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Dietz NEEDS your old tank if it's still perfect or near perfect on the outside. Get some new fork boots along with the Clarke tank.
http://tw200forum.com/forum/tw200-classifieds/10612-wtb-factory-blue-gas-tank.html


How hard did mr SUV hit you? what an arse.

PS: the brill bit is for removing the factory plug over the pilot screw adjustment, which will have to be removed for cleaning (take note of how many turns out the factory placement is). New carbs are still available at about $250-$300, since you only paid $1100 this might be your best route to get on the road properly.
Ok I will check his add. The plug is the lil black plastic piece in this photo? P5240038.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
more carb photos

P5240033.JPG Gasket isn't too bad but I got a new one
P5240034.JPG Looks a bit grimy {just broke this brass piece right off trying to clean it with a pipe cleaner. looks like i will get a new carb}
P5240036.JPG
P5240041.JPG
P5240043.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Carb pieces

P5240035.JPG might have forgotten where these ones go, sure i will figure it out
P5240037.JPG The float and pieces
P5240039.JPG carb rebuild kit
P5240040.JPG 6sigma jetting kit
 

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Top pic, plastic goes over the main jet and sits in the bottom of the bowl with the flat side Up. The O ring goes in the grove of the brass rod that is permanent on the carb body and sticks down in to the bowl. When you remove the screw to yank the float needle valve seat check the top of the old one. It has a tiny screen on it that is always clogged so make sure the old one comes out. You won't need the drill bit and screw because the plug over the pilot screw is already removed. You do NOT drill out that black plastic plug you asked about. The plug would have been a solid brass plug covering the hole where the pilot screw is. Looking at the bottom of your carb, if you had the float bowl in place it is the hole that is outside and just forward of the float bowl toward the engine side. The Pilot screw goes there and it has a spring and tiny O ring.

GaryL
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Broke it! opps

P6050036.JPG
looks like I broke it. Finally got together everything I needed to clean the carb up and 10 mins in I am jamming a pipe cleaner down that brass tube. Not gentle enough and it bent and snapped.
looks like it lets air flow up into a certain location in the carb. Well breaking things is a good way to learn to be more gentle.
I will buy a new carb. anyone know where to get a new carb from.

Thanks:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Let your emotions run you

So I was a bit on edge after the carb breaking.
So I went climbing but my friend never showed up, said he got busy.
I came home and set up to work on the Tdub.
I had been wanting to get the old exhaust separated from the header.
I tried 3 times already with out any luck.
My friend suggested some liquid wrench, said its wd-40 on steroids , to go along with a strap wrench and a plumbers wrench.
Well I don't have any of those.
But I do have a disc grinder.
After removing the header from the engine carefully to not strip the old bolts.
I cut the header in half.
problem solved.
The old muffler was rusted and had rusty pieces of metal shaking around in there.
cutting things with the disc grinder always makes me feel better.:p
 

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Discussion Starter #12
After some frustration with the new carb (trying to take the bottom float chamber off I stripped the heads of two of the shitty screws) I moved onto more productive things like cleaning the air box and installing the new muffler. Next I will work on getting those screws off.

20140626_163829.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
P6170036.JPG New carb stripped two of the screw trying to get the float chamber off but finally got them off with some help of my dremmel
P6270040.JPG New main jet 117.5, thought about putting the 122.5 but didn't I will see what happens
P6270041.JPG old and new Pilot jet, can anyone elaborate on the function of the pilot jet and what difference the new on will make?
 

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The screws on your bike might look like standard Phillips head but they are in fact JIS screws, Japanese Industrial Standard. Regular Phillips drivers will round them off in seconds as you have discovered.

I don't know where you are buying your carburetor parts but neither of those Pilot Screws even remotely resemble the actual Pilot Screws found in an Old Style carb which do have a tiny O ring on them. Even the 117.5 jet looks like a Mikuni jet and not a jet for a TK carb. It is impossible for me to say they will or will not fit and work but I do have my doubts. In your post # 8 of this thread your middle picture clearly shows the true Pilot screw with the tiny O ring and spring.

GaryL
 

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FYI, one of the best things I did to my carb was replace the original float bowl bolts with Allen bolts. I'm thankful every time I mess with the carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The screws on your bike might look like standard Phillips head but they are in fact JIS screws, Japanese Industrial Standard. Regular Phillips drivers will round them off in seconds as you have discovered.

I don't know where you are buying your carburetor parts but neither of those Pilot Screws even remotely resemble the actual Pilot Screws found in an Old Style carb which do have a tiny O ring on them. Even the 117.5 jet looks like a Mikuni jet and not a jet for a TK carb. It is impossible for me to say they will or will not fit and work but I do have my doubts. In your post # 8 of this thread your middle picture clearly shows the true Pilot screw with the tiny O ring and spring.

GaryL
Ah ha that makes sense about those screws. I did get some replacement Allen bolt ones
Those are the pilot jets not the pilot screws, situated right next to the main jet inside the carb.
The new jets did look different but screwed in as well and looked the same fit as the old 114 jet. The only difference was it came with a O-ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Success I re-installed everything, and Vrrrrooom, ran nicely right away. I didn't even need to use the choke to start it up, that is probably bad, but it works. Did some trails with my buddy, its really fun off road super pumped!! The other day I jumped on it right after coming down from a hike and didn't let it warm up, it was dying out when I twisted the throttle. we got down the big hill and it died. I put the GF in a truck of a friend who was randomly there as I didn't want to have problems on the Highway with her on the back and our hiking gear. But after she left it worked great on the highway after starting her up again. Then this morning I let her warm up a bit and we jumped on to take the Gf to work and no problems. But on the way home I fuelled up, and when leaving had the same throttle issues.

Is there a proper start-up warm-up procedure?
Thanks for the proper Drivers guys, stripping those screws nearly made cry haha
Also I have a oil leak coming out of the right side, kinda a bummer. Any suggestions on or links to oil leak fixing would be helpful thanks
I will clean it up and try to pin-point the location. If I can get some Jis drivers I will try to tighten everything up, see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Opps I was cleaning up my work bench area and found the main jet splash ring. So that means its not in the carb. hmmmm looks like a excuse to pull it off and open it up again haha
I didn't shim the needle at all I wonder if I should. I tried it on the old carb but it seemed very difficult so I didn't bother.

more research is needed
 
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