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Discussion Starter #1
No....I said "deck".
The other day, I modified my puny deck into something a bit bigger...16 x 16 to be exact.

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This bigger deck will not only hold my Givi...

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But I'm also fortunate enough to own TWO of the Agri-Supply manual canisters; the large one and the small one.

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...and this large deck means that BOTH of them can fit here (not at the same time mind you....or maybe I could fit the small one on the other side?)
Anyways...on some trips, I'll only need the small one...on others I can use the large one to carry a fuel bottle:

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Slides right in...almost like it was made for it!

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And yes....just below that is my 3" tool tube

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It's about 14" long with expandable plugs on both ends.
I fabbed this wire thingy...to help pull the toolkit out from the tube.

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I just hook it around the end of the toolkit...

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...and stuff it down the pipe. When I need to access some tools, I merely grab the handy finger loop and pull.

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There's also a few heavy-duty zip ties, a length of fuel line and a few more goodies that I put loosely in there. Another expandable plug goes in this end...and the whole thing is water-tight!
Took the whole kit 'n kaboodle for a 20 mile ride down a rough Forestry road today...it all survived the test!
 

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Did you reinforce the sub frame?
I broke the subframe on your old TW carrying too much weight and racing with Axle and Jeff around Finns and Things.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
No reinforcement yet. How would I do that?

I'm surprised it broke again. I made some skookum repairs after it broke on me...thought I'd made it bullet-proof.
 

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I need to do my frame. Did a ride up around Enderby in August and rode her a little hard loaded up. Snapped cycle rack bracket at the fulcrum and completely cracked booth sides of the subframe bracket the cycle rack bolts to. Wasn't carrying close to my normal multi day trip loadout. Was only doing a long day ride. Had my Rotopax and tool kit but I G out pretty hard through a wash out. Sadly bike has been in the garage resting since Covid screwed up ICBC and my L expired.
 

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The TW's subframe was designed somewhat weak so as to be sacrificial in event of a minor crash that otherwise might damage the bike's actual frame.
As such there is not much readily done to reinforce the mounting tabs thin gauge metal.
I've bent, twisted and torn mine as well as sheared off their mounting points on the frame over the years. When Jeff & ejfranz returned from Fins & things with a pair of broken subframes Jeff's subframe tubes were actually buckled, first time I've seen that. They must have had some serious fun!
At best one can reduce the cantilevered distance the load is carried at beyond the point of attachment to the actual TW frame, the weight of the load, the "bouncing" the load is subject too ( i.e. smoother roads & slower speeds) or the best is to add compression struts from near rear of deck to a solid frame mount like the rear passenger foot pegs. Those struts have to have a few bends to clear tool tubes and exhaust but even a somewhat flexible ( due to bends) triangulated support is vastly stronger than having all the load cantilevered out from the subframe-to-frame mounting points. Tying into the turn signal mounts helps rigidify deck to subframe but does not address weak attachments of subframe with deck assembly to TW frame.
Whatever approach is used keeping all fasteners tight is imperative. A little looseness results in worn out-of-round holes and subsequent loss of rigidity which transfers much of the intended load to the other fasteners. Overloading these then often results in a cascade of failures with stress fractures you cant repair in the field.
 
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