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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a Pro-Moto billet rack for my DR, but after eating the cost of one of them...I decided to BUILD one for each of my other bikes.

The Sherpa had a custom build...
The XT225 had a custom-build...
The XT250 had a custom build....
...and now, the TW will get a custom-built rear rack.

The biggest problem with creating a rack for the TW, is that it lacks the attachment-points that all of the other aforementioned models had...and I don't want to sacrifice my pilions for the sake of a rack.

So, I've started fabricating and fitting a creation for the TW, but in my haste, I've omitted pics and a commentary...so I'll be doing that over the next week or so, as I put the finishing touches on this one.
As it stands, I'm about 25% complete.

Stay tuned........
 

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I am anxiously awaiting your reports and pics. I've been a fabricator for decades and, I too have thought about creating my own rack. I don't have a tubing bender so, this is why I've not taken on this project just yet. I can weld a square shaped one in a heart beat but, those are not as ergonomically good looking and, they're a bit more dangerous, for lack of a better word, 'cause of the sharp and square corners.
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well then....you're not going to like this one.
I had full intentions of using square tubing and welded corners, but the welding machine at my work got stolen last week so I've had to change up the plans.

I'm using square aluminum stock for the front and rear supports and aluminum sheet for the "arms". It will all be bound together with plywood, for rigidity.
 

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chehalis26.JPG
This shows the rack TW_in_BC built for his last TW.
My only suggestion would be to add a "long Fin" to the bottom of the subframe for extra support as I have broken it a few times.
Too much weight and going too fast on a rough trail.
 

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Well then....you're not going to like this one.
I had full intentions of using square tubing and welded corners, but the welding machine at my work got stolen last week so I've had to change up the plans.

I'm using square aluminum stock for the front and rear supports and aluminum sheet for the "arms". It will all be bound together with plywood, for rigidity.
Ya know, I'm sure it's gonna turn out just fine. I applaud anyone who takes on the task of something like this. In fact, you're actually triggering me to "think" about making one for mine. I got all the welding machines I need right here at the house, MIG, TIG, STICK, OXy-ACY and all that. So, it's just a matter of how I want to go about it and, what I want to make it out of.
Scott
 

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Good Lord, man... did you superglue that bike in place to take that picture?
No, just where the bike came to rest on my first attempt out of the river bed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
View attachment 198074
This shows the rack TW_in_BC built for his last TW.
My only suggestion would be to add a "long Fin" to the bottom of the subframe for extra support as I have broken it a few times.
Too much weight and going too fast on a rough trail.
Holy crap I thought you would have tossed that relic years ago!
I had good intentions when I made it but it wasn't until I had to remove it one day that I realized how HEAVY it was!

Hence the reason my last three racks were made from aluminum....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ya know, I'm sure it's gonna turn out just fine. I applaud anyone who takes on the task of something like this. In fact, you're actually triggering me to "think" about making one for mine. I got all the welding machines I need right here at the house, MIG, TIG, STICK, OXy-ACY and all that. So, it's just a matter of how I want to go about it and, what I want to make it out of.
Scott
Unfortunately, the thieves made off with the Oxy-Acetylene setup as well....but left the wire-feed machine. I guess they know how tough those are to work with!

This new rack employs threaded holes and fasteners and will weigh a little more than I would like...but at least it will be 85% aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
A crude "drawing" of what this will look like:

Rack.jpg

So....I start with a base-bracket.
This will go behind and under the seat into those two empty threaded-holes in the sub frame.

IMG_0949.JPG

One of the 1" square bars bolts into the three holes. This bar has also been drilled and tapped on the ends to receive the side pieces.

IMG_0950.JPG IMG_0951.JPG

Of course...I'll need two of them:

IMG_0953.JPG

Unfortunately, I chose a chunk of stock from the retailers rack that was a bit marred...thinking I would get a bit of a discount for it...no such luck.
I should have used the gnarly one as the front piece because it won't be as visible as the rear one will.

I still need to manufacture the side-pieces. The bottom slots on the side pieces will slide onto the tail-light mounts, without the need to remove the tail lights completely.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Front bracket and front bar assembled...

IMG_0955.JPG

I'm considering drilling some large holes in the bars to eliminate weight...I think I'll hold off for a while, until I get it completely assembled and see what the total weight is, and whether it needs some reduction.
For now, I've removed the center bolt to save a few grams....
 

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I really admire you craftsmen...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Made up a couple of "mock-up" side pieces from some 3/16" HDPE I had laying around...

IMG_0963.JPG

Now, I can test the feasibility of this plan...

Bracket has been painted, so it can go back on.

IMG_0956.JPG

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The side pieces are "rough" guides to fit this together....I will make sure all edges are nice and the dimensions are proper.

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There are some minor issues with fit...I'll have to be more careful with the finished pieces...

IMG_0959.JPG

...and the finished edges along the top will be even.

IMG_0960.JPG

The two flat bars at both ends of the rack will give me a solid mounting surface for the wood (or plastic) deck.
Now, with the bugs worked out...I can move on to the finished product.

...and the bracket can stay here now.

IMG_0964.JPG
 

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Clever to use HDPE for the mock-up templates. A nice design as long as you take into consideration the overall strength of the assembly you are attaching the rack to.
If you apply a critical eye to the subframe's fairly thin mounting tabs to the TW frame itself you may get an idea why Yamaha lists the OEM load plate which sits on that sub-frame at only 8 lbs.
It doesn't matter how many times or diffeernt places you attach the rack to the subframe, the sub frame is still deliberately the weak link at the TW's rear. Adjust your anticipated load accordingly or beef up the connections in what is essentially a sacrificial crumple zone for limiting damage to the actual bike's frame during an impact or crash.
In addition to several Cyclerack failed welds and stress fractures I have broken my entire subframe off at those aforementioned frame-to-subframe connections. They can be reinforced though.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Somehow, I managed to find the time to finish this off today!
I obtained some 1/8" aluminum to make the side pieces...

After cutting them to rough shape, I bolted them together and filed and filed until the pieces were identical. The holes match some strategic locations.

IMG_0966.JPG

Satisfied with the finished product, I installed them onto the bike along with the end bars.

IMG_0967.JPG

There is a small area where the body-plastic interferes....but I haven't decided if I'm going to notch it.

IMG_0968.JPG

Some careful matching and marking, and I can drill and tap holes in the cross-bars fore and aft.

IMG_0969.JPG

Now I add the plywood decking and consider it complete.
I made a couple of mistakes on the front mount....but I should be able to touch that up somehow...or it might not even be visible when the top-box is on.

IMG_0970.JPG

Even though the side-pieces are only 1/8" thick...the hole thing is surprisingly rigid. I don't know how much weight it can support...hopefully around 8 lbs!
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
After a couple of weeks with a plywood-deck...I decided that I want to try out some plastic.
I've made a 14 x 14 sheet of 3/16" ABS that will do nicely, but I'd like to carve some neat (and functional) pattern in it for weight reduction.

All I have to do is find some sort of template...but I still need to be able to fit my Givi-box onto the finished product.

...any ideas?
 
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