[JayinMaine]

Greetings everyone,



I've been riding bikes now for roughly 20 yrs. and have bought and sold many durring this time. My first on/off road was a DR250, SP500, DR350, then KTM RXC620 and the list goes on. I've always been intrigued by the TW200 so about a year ago I started watching craigslist. Being located in the Northeast (Maine) I didn't see them advertised often at all and when they were they were usually over 3K for a used one with low miles. I searched for several months then gave up for a while. Last week I looked and one had popped up about 15 minutes before I signed in...I immediatly e-mailed...I knew it was a hell of a deal...2007, 550 miles, mint condition, $2200 negotiated!...I'm thinking I got pretty lucky? I had to drive to the top of the state to get it...11 hrs. in the car that day but it was so worth it! (SIDE NOTE: THE TW WILL FIT IN THE BACK OF A HONDA ELEMENT!) We've had warm weather so I've been riding it all over the place...love it. I have an FZ1 when I feel like going fast and a Vino 125 when i want to go slow...the TW fits right in the middle perfectly.



Since we don't have many trails in this area most of my riding will likely be on-road. I debated what to do about gearing because anything over 45 and it seems to be revving and little too much. I ordered an aluminum 16T sprocket off ebay...I would have liked steel but couldn't find one. I'm hoping this brings the RPM's down to an acceptable range for road riding but still leaves me with enough low speed to ride off-road when the mood hits?? Any input here would be appreciated. I also ordered a Borrego Rack and Emgo hard case to attach...hoping it's a good combo? It sounds like I'll need a better quality chain in the near future and a front tire by 4000 miles from what I'm reading? Anything else?? Has anyone attempted to power a heated jacket?



In any event It looks like a fun community in here and I'll look forward to hearing what folks have to say.



Thanks



Jay

 

[Rainman]

Welcome and congrats on the bike! 16 tooth aluminum front sprocket? Never heard of one. I was told that 15 is the biggest one that fits. I may be wrong.

 

[Kankujoe]

Congrats on the TW. You got a good deal.

 

[JayinMaine]

Welcome and congrats on the bike! 16 tooth aluminum front sprocket? Never heard of one. I was told that 15 is the biggest one that fits. I may be wrong.

You may be right? Here is a link to the auction... http://www.ebay.com/itm/230733722169?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 It will be interesting to see what actually shows up in the mail. I did read on another forum that someone successfully ordered a 16 tooth from a dealer and it did fit, other than that I've seen and heard little evidence. I'll be sure and post if it's successful.

 

[Rainman]

You may be right? Here is a link to the auction... http://www.ebay.com/itm/230733722169?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 It will be interesting to see what actually shows up in the mail. I did read on another forum that someone successfully ordered a 16 tooth from a dealer and it did fit, other than that I've seen and heard little evidence. I'll be sure and post if it's successful.

Cool. Let us know what shows up. I am sure it will be steel though...aluminum wouldn't be heavy enough for the front. PBI shows 12-16 tooth front sprockets for the TW.

 

[Jon H]

Nice work in negotiating the motorcycling landscape. I've also had many bikes and keep coming back to the TW, now on my 4th, but then I don't tent to keep bikes very long. Maybe like you, I'm also a DR fan and will am currently looking for another DR200. The small dual sports, some thinks of as a cross between and mountain bike and a motorcycle, bring out the simple joys of motorcycling and as such are very compeling. I wonder if you ever read this thread on AVDrider about TW and also gearing http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40322. By the way, I think you got a good deal on that one too. My first was a 2007 which I paid $2500, then a succession of (2) 2004's then the current 1987, which I plan on putting as many miles on as I can. Cheers.

 

[TeeDubs]

Hey Jay, $2,200 is a good buy! My 95 was $1,500 four years ago and had 750 miles, I just picked up an 87 for $300 but she isn't running yet...

My parents have a Honda Element that i'm going to barrow/steal in their sleep the next time i need to haul one of the dubs!



I'm also thinking about putting a 47t sprocket on the 87 once i get it going... I'd like it to be my street dubya and keep the 95 stockish for off-road adventures

 

[Turwilliger]

Good price! Mine was a few hundred less, but with a bunch more miles and in dire need of a chain/cogs...

and I drove 18 hours round trip to get it!



Emgo makes a nice inexpensive trunk and the fit is fairly universal. It comes with strips of metal with several holes and some hardware you may wish to cut and paint. I think you can get the lock and latch mechanisms if you ever bust em too.



There are no "necessities" aside from probably a better skid plate up north... one good rock and kiss your crankcase goodbye.

Add to that some handguards for cold and crash protection for both your hands and levers...



Think about ATV hi bend bars by protaper if you're average-tall and plan on standing some while off roading...

Or else mirror risers for the stock bars so you see more than your shoulders.



You might want wider footpegs too. Some swear by em.



A better FRONT <corrected] tire isn't a bad idea either.. and for the price the "golden boy" is excellent for dirt, a bit weird for road riding, but may wear in with enough cornering... until then it wants to kind of drop into turns somewhat suddenly.



Let the modding begin!!

 

[Omega Man]

Nice! Good deal @half price. Good luck with it. Gary

 

[JayinMaine]

Good price! Mine was a few hundred less, but with a bunch more miles and in dire need of a chain/cogs...

and I drove 18 hours round trip to get it!



Emgo makes a nice inexpensive trunk and the fit is fairly universal. It comes with strips of metal with several holes and some hardware you may wish to cut and paint. I think you can get the lock and latch mechanisms if you ever bust em too.



There are no "necessities" aside from probably a better skid plate up north... one good rock and kiss your crankcase goodbye.

Add to that some handguards for cold and crash protection for both your hands and levers...



Think about ATV hi bend bars by protaper if you're average-tall and plan on standing some while off roading...

Or else mirror risers for the stock bars so you see more than your shoulders.



You might want wider footpegs too. Some swear by em.



A better rear tire isn't a bad idea either.. and for the price the "golden boy" is excellent for dirt, a bit weird for road riding, but may wear in with enough cornering... until then it wants to kind of drop into turns somewhat suddenly.



Let the modding begin!!

Ah yes wider foot pegs would be excellent and the skid plate sounds like a must have, handguards too...I think I'll put some wear on the stock tires before I shell out for different ones...I'm guessing on the road they will wear rather quickly anyway?



My wife sat on the bike yesterday and said she liked the height and was looking forward to trying it out when it gets a little warmer...that statement combined with all the other people in here who own more than one has got me thinking!

For those of you who attempt to put one in a Honda Element...I took the air out of the front tire to bring the handlebars down a little bit for the hatch opening. Once inside the stock height fits fine. The rear seats were removed and the front passenger seat moved forward all the way. The people I bought the TW from were laughing when I arrived and were in awe as I drove away after it slid in there so easily.



Any suggestions on which foot pegs and where to get them along with the hand guards would be welcome! YES let the modding begin!

 

[PalmStateCrawler]

I bought the ebay pegs and they have held up well. Handguards are up to you, whichever price and style you prefer. Many others and I have been using tusk d-flex from rocky mountain.



If you do a lot of offroading, the front tire really sucks. It likes to slide out from under you due to loss of traction. But if you mainly ride roads you should be fine with the stocker. It should last you a good 4-5000 miles.



I also bought tusk bar risers. They are not nearly as good as the atv high bars. If you want to stand up straight, skip the risers and get new bars.

 

[STEVE IN SOCAL]

My wife sat on the bike yesterday and said she liked the height and was looking forward to trying it out when it gets a little warmer...that statement combined with all the other people in here who own more than one has got me thinking!

Any suggestions on which foot pegs and where to get them along with the hand guards would be welcome! YES let the modding begin!

[/quote]



I just bought two a 1990 and a 1992, one for me, one for the wife (or buddies who are bikeless)



Researched which hand guards, and am going with these:



http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/44/54/229/1036/-/9550/Tusk-D-Flex-Handguards-Spoilers



Good price (I have two bikes to mod, remember), as well as I like the cold protection, as it can be cold where I ride in the spring and fall.

 

[JayinMaine]

My wife sat on the bike yesterday and said she liked the height and was looking forward to trying it out when it gets a little warmer...that statement combined with all the other people in here who own more than one has got me thinking!

Any suggestions on which foot pegs and where to get them along with the hand guards would be welcome! YES let the modding begin!

I just bought two a 1990 and a 1992, one for me, one for the wife (or buddies who are bikeless)



Researched which hand guards, and am going with these:



http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/44/54/229/1036/-/9550/Tusk-D-Flex-Handguards-Spoilers



Good price (I have two bikes to mod, remember), as well as I like the cold protection, as it can be cold where I ride in the spring and fall.



Those look like excellent handguards...I like the size and shape and there's a color to match though not really important. Best I've seen yet...thanks! Good luck with your 90 & 92. Wish my buddies would keep an extra bike on hand for when I visit!

 

[PJungnitsch]

Has anyone attempted to power a heated jacket?

I run a Tourmaster heated vest and Oxford heated grips on my 96. They do run the battery down after a few days so I put it on the charger occasionally, not a big problem as I always have the kickstarter as backup. Very nice on cold days!



Yours has a heftier charging system so might be better. It is good to check the draw of the heated stuff, as some take more power than others. The Tourmaster has low draw at low power settings due to digital switching but the controller is not known to be the best. The Oxford also uses digital switching and works excellently.



You can also change the tailight and instrument lights to LED to save power, or switch the 55w headlight bulb to the 35w that the older bikes like mine use.

 

[JayinMaine]

I run a Tourmaster heated vest and Oxford heated grips on my 96. They do run the battery down after a few days so I put it on the charger occasionally, not a big problem as I always have the kickstarter as backup. Very nice on cold days!



Yours has a heftier charging system so might be better. It is good to check the draw of the heated stuff, as some take more power than others. The Tourmaster has low draw at low power settings due to digital switching but the controller is not known to be the best. The Oxford also uses digital switching and works excellently.



You can also change the tailight and instrument lights to LED to save power, or switch the 55w headlight bulb to the 35w that the older bikes like mine use.

Yes the LED would certainly free up some power. My Venture Heat jacket Draws 6.9-7.8 Amps (83W) according to their website. I'm not sure how much the 07' TW has in reserve? My guess would be that there is not 83W to spare? What do you think? Thanks for your input!

 

[lower al]

Welcome.Come on in an stay a while.There are some great folks here

 

[Turwilliger]

Just a further note to indicate I corrected my earlier response-

It is the FRONT tire that many off roaders opt to change. Not the rear as previously posted.

 

[qwerty]

Get a rheostat to dial down the jacket. LEDs and a HID headlight will free up about 30 watts. A thin layer of insulation and an effective windbreaking jacket, and 30 watts is all you need until temps drop below 0*F. I regularly ride open bikes in temps down to single digits with only thoughful layering, no electric anything.



The stock chain is junk. It will wear quickly and take both sprockets with it. The stock 14/50 sprocket ratio is too tall to over-rev the engine in 5th gear. The engine is so gently tuned running it wide open is like running other engines in the same family at half throttle. No matter what the engine sounds like, it won't hurt itself with stock gearing. Even on a steep downhill with a tailwind the engine will lightly float the valves and stop pulling long before any damage is done. There also seems to be a pattern of TWs with taller gearing having engine failures. I expect lugging a TW is way more destructive than over-revving on the highway. Try to get used to the sound.



What you won't gain with a taller ratio is performance. The engine won't pull redline with the stock sprockets, by about 2000rpm. A taller ratio will only gain top end when riden off cliffs, with a strong tailwind, when drafting a cage, or some combination of these factors. Highway performance will suffer because the engine simply won't pull as well uphill and/or with a headwind, resulting in the need to downshift. I expect with your 16T sprocket you'll spend a lot of uphills in 4th because the engine really needs the rpm to make enough power to pull hills and such. Toss in the wide gap between 4th and 5th, and you'll find the bike will run faster in 4th than in 5th in many situations, and the rpm reduction you forced on the engine with a taller ratio results in increased rpm because you have to downshift. It's a false economy.



Expect fuel efficiency to drop if you go beyond +1 tooth on the countershaft or -3 teeth on the wheel sprocket. TW engines do not like to be lugged on the highway. I'd advise against any taller than a 15 or a 47. One or the other, not both. The northeast has enough short, steep elevation changes to make taller ratios problematic.



That said, there are valid reasons for switching to a taller sprocket ratio. Better rollout in low gears is a plus. Less vibration at highway speed is another.



Ride the stock sprockets until the chain wears out. Then decide.



Stock front tire sucks. The 203/204 combo is sold as a 50/50 tire, but don't believe. They suck everywhere. Stick with the stock rear and something like a K270 or SR244 on the front. Either are aggressive enough offroad to prevent excessive washouts and still cooperate well with the TW34 on pavement. Both will outperform the stocker under just about any conditions. Anything more aggressive will anchor the front end offroad, but will likely not have good pavement manners.

 

[JayinMaine]

Get a rheostat to dial down the jacket. LEDs and a HID headlight will free up about 30 watts. A thin layer of insulation and an effective windbreaking jacket, and 30 watts is all you need until temps drop below 0*F. I regularly ride open bikes in temps down to single digits with only thoughful layering, no electric anything.



The stock chain is junk. It will wear quickly and take both sprockets with it. The stock 14/50 sprocket ratio is too tall to over-rev the engine in 5th gear. The engine is so gently tuned running it wide open is like running other engines in the same family at half throttle. No matter what the engine sounds like, it won't hurt itself with stock gearing. Even on a steep downhill with a tailwind the engine will lightly float the valves and stop pulling long before any damage is done. There also seems to be a pattern of TWs with taller gearing having engine failures. I expect lugging a TW is way more destructive than over-revving on the highway. Try to get used to the sound.



What you won't gain with a taller ratio is performance. The engine won't pull redline with the stock sprockets, by about 2000rpm. A taller ratio will only gain top end when riden off cliffs, with a strong tailwind, when drafting a cage, or some combination of these factors. Highway performance will suffer because the engine simply won't pull as well uphill and/or with a headwind, resulting in the need to downshift. I expect with your 16T sprocket you'll spend a lot of uphills in 4th because the engine really needs the rpm to make enough power to pull hills and such. Toss in the wide gap between 4th and 5th, and you'll find the bike will run faster in 4th than in 5th in many situations, and the rpm reduction you forced on the engine with a taller ratio results in increased rpm because you have to downshift. It's a false economy.



Expect fuel efficiency to drop if you go beyond +1 tooth on the countershaft or -3 teeth on the wheel sprocket. TW engines do not like to be lugged on the highway. I'd advise against any taller than a 15 or a 47. One or the other, not both. The northeast has enough short, steep elevation changes to make taller ratios problematic.



That said, there are valid reasons for switching to a taller sprocket ratio. Better rollout in low gears is a plus. Less vibration at highway speed is another.



Ride the stock sprockets until the chain wears out. Then decide.



Stock front tire sucks. The 203/204 combo is sold as a 50/50 tire, but don't believe. They suck everywhere. Stick with the stock rear and something like a K270 or SR244 on the front. Either are aggressive enough offroad to prevent excessive washouts and still cooperate well with the TW34 on pavement. Both will outperform the stocker under just about any conditions. Anything more aggressive will anchor the front end offroad, but will likely not have good pavement manners.

Great advice, thank you. My Venture Heat jacket has a built in controller with 4 settings so I'm thinking of trying it on low to see how it goes. I've ridden in temperatures slightly above 0 F with no heated jacket in the past but I've become spoiled and a bit smarter than I used to be.



I'm going to give the 16 tooth a try since I already ordered it...I don't expect to drive around in 5th gear all the time and have no problem dropping to 4th or 3rd. to conquer a hill. The Yamaha manual actually tells you to shift into 5th at 25 mph. interestingly enough. It's pretty easy to tell when lugging a single cylinder engine so if it's over kill It should be pretty obvious...I'll report my findings. Thanks again for your input.

 

[JayinMaine]

So I ended up going with Qwerty's advice and only putting on a 15 tooth in the front instead of the intended 16. After a test ride this evening I surmised that the 15T is perfect. If I were riding off road most of the time a 13T or 14T would be ideal but most of my riding is on-road. The 16T never showed up though the E-bay auction promised it, I'm glad. I would say that anything taller than a 15/50 setup would not allow the engine to reach it's max intended RPM in 5th gear.



I added a Borrego rack on the rear, Emgo hard case, and wide foot pegs...she's ready to roll! I've been using my heated jacket without any mods to the lighting and so far the battery is holding a charge just fine, even when on high. Hand guards will be the next add on but I've spent enough money for now...time to enjoy a bit!