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1992 TW200
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Hi there! This is half an introduction and half a "what should I do about X" post. And partly so I can remember what this thing was like when I bought it.

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I bought it last week for $1400. Previous owner said it needed nothing, which wasn't quite accurate - but overall it is in pretty decent shape.

I found some JB-weld on the clutch cover and ended up having to pull the cover and get it welded. I'd have just bought a new cover but they are on back order and I really wanted to ride it. Welding seems to have held up so far - I was not expecting much considering how bad the crack was.

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When I took the cover off I also found part of a snap ring in the oil - I tracked this down to a missing snap ring for the kick starter, and a mangled washer. Got a new snap ring on there and un-mangled the washer. Kick starter functions normally now.

With that sorted I took for a ride last weekend and discovered some other issues - The clutch slips (even with the cable adjusted to the point where it will barely disengage), the carb would appear to need a rebuild, it will not rev out to redline and struggles to go 50 MPH generally, and the front brakes suck. I know drums aren't great but the drums on the honda C70 I rode were smaller and would put you over the handlebars so I am sure this can be improved.

Oh, and the suspension - Seems like it does basically nothing. Going to change the fork fluid and see if the rear is set stupidly or something. I'm not expecting a ton from 6" of travel but it really feels pretty bad, especially over stuff that shouldn't bottom it out if I hit it quickly., like tree roots and small rocks.

What sort of tire pressures do you guys run off road? I was thinking something like 10 front and 5-6 rear? On my KDX I usually run around 10 front and 8-9 rear. I'm pretty new to riding, and while I'd like to be "fast" even when I'm going all out I'm probably less than half as fast as experienced riders.

So, for now, my to-do list is check the suspension, find out what the best front brake shoes are, and figure out if these should have a jet kit or just a stock carb rebuild.

Long term, I need to find some mirrors, I'd like a cargo rack thing of some kind, and I think the battery is on it's last legs or the stator isn't very good at keeping it charged.

Anyways, thanks for reading this and for any advice you may have!
 

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Well,
While you may have purchased a not so great a deal bike, it's still a TW 200 and, unless it was totaled in a wreck, IT'S FIXABLE! Some folks just plain don't take care of their stuff, plain and simple. They just don't care. But, then there's others that are more aware of the value of their equipment and therefore, even when riding it or transporting it, care is taken. Sooooo, in your case, you get to play with a new toy that's had a harder life and needs some TLC to make it yours. No biggie. Projects like that, are to me, fun to do because I know I can make it better.
For the life of me, I can't figure out how a clutch cover can be broken like that unless there is evidence of a collision with a rock or, car or, SOMETHING that could cause that. And, while I'm a TIG welder, I might be on the prowl for another one. Anyway, good luck on your project. The carbs on those are ultra simple so, buzzing it apart and cleaning things up ain't a big deal at all.
Scott
 
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Dang, that case looks like a one off replica of the crack I had on my TT225 clutchcover. I have a professional welder locally who works on bikes that was able to do a great job of repairing it otherwise I would 100% have replaced the cover.
As far as pressure goes you'll have people giving numbers all over the place. Personally I run between 14-16 front and 18-20 rear depending on the terrain (typical PA/NY atv trails).
 

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As for your forks, the very first thing to check is oil level. Since flushing and re-filling is on the list, try a level of about 130 mm if you are around 200 lbs. with gear. See the tech write-ups.
For tire pressure, 5-6 lbs. is pretty low except for deep sand. In rocky terrain I use 12 front 10 rear, for pavement 18 on both and for going back and forth 14 front and 16 rear.
SOME JB Weld? Whew! :eek:
 

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That has to be the worst crack I ever saw here on the forum. You have a bit of work ahead of you....


Welcome to the forum!! Ask any question, you will be helped here.
 
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Be careful about that - there was some talk of the dimensions changing over the years


Post # 33
 

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Something else with the forks, before doing any upgrades, and after an oil change, they have these caps that I was using before I did a full custom suspension on my bike, they work pretty good for upping the preload. Helps stiffen them up a bit.

 

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Unless there is little to no pad material on the current brake shoes, I have gotten good braking improvement from sanding the pads and drum. On most of mine, the glazing was easy to see. Don’t expect too much from the drum brakes though, even if you go with new shoes.

I just followed a good, reputable YouTube video. Can’t remember what grit number I used, but you want to cross-hatch while sanding. I think each wheel takes me about 30 minutes after the wheel and shoes are off the bike and ready for sanding.
 
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View attachment 209640

no leaks so far!

So, what's the best brake shoes for the front? RMATV seems to have tusk and EBC, but that's about it.
I have always used the oem shoes with great results. I have changed no more than 2 sets of shoes and I am over 47,000 miles now.
 

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The clutch is an easy fix, the springs are "tired" I had the same issue on my new to me TW200. I recommend some of the aftermarket stiffer springs available, or OEM. I bought these link and replaced the stock fibers as well. Turned out my fibers where fine and measured in spec. I am confident new springs will fix you up, and even though they are slightly stiffer you will not notice in your lever.
 

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Congrats! And as for being told, it needs nothing by a seller, that is code for "it is hammered but it needs nothing more from 'me' if you buy it."

Make sure your clutch tension spring at the pivot on the case is in place correctly. As for forks I would not be surprised if with the overall condition you got it in, that they are not filled with watery fluid, or empty from leaked out fork seals. When I rebuilt them on my 99 I made one inch long ss tube spacers for more spring compression and went with heavier fluid, 15wt I think. It firmed up nicely and I seldom bottom out and I weigh 260 with gear. Leaked fork oil also could have fouled your brake shoes.

have fun!
 
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