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Discussion Starter #1
It was time...so once I got home (nice and hot) I thought I should change the oil again.
Trying to get the drain plug off was an exercise...how does that thing tighten up like that?
Eventually got it loose but it kept sticking every few threads, so I need the wrench on it for most of the time. Once I got the spring and screen out, it had large back flecks in it...looked like plastic...about the size of this "o".
While the oil was draining, I moved to the filter. The two bolts loosened easily enough, but the hex-head was tighter than it should be, and once loosened it came out with effort - not the way a bolt should come out.
I checked it for galling and/or chunks of thread from the block....nothing. That's a good sign, right?
The filter also had the same sort of black chunks in it...any idea what those could be?

When I went to put everything back together, the hex bolt would NOT thread into the hole at all. I checked for obstacles or debris...nothing there. Threads on the bolt seemed OK, but it would NOT screw into the block. I took a 6mm tap, covered it in grease and chased the threads for a few turns. After this, the hex-bolt went into the hole, but with effort...as if the threads were galling, even through I coated it in anti-seize.
Everything else went back together easily enough...even the drain plug.

So now, it seems as though I'll need to buy a bottoming tap for the next time...in order to chase the threads in the block all the way through.
There is no hole through this bolt, so it does NOT serve as an oil passage, but why is it "shouldered"? If necessary, can I installed a Time-sert or heli-coil?
Does anybody know WHY this bolt is built the way it is....there seems to be an oil passage at the bottom of the hole...what's with the o-ring at the top of the hole?

Any information is appreciated.
 

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I started putting anti-seize on the drain plug because even though I was installing it with the correct torque, it always felt stuck. Doing so corrected that problem for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
...as I will do from now on, for sure.

TW Oil filter.jpg

This is the "bolt" I'm talking about. This diagram is from the manual and it shows an oil passage at the end of this bolt...but I still don't understand why it is "shouldered" or why it needs an o-ring....
I'm appealing to anyone who has removed the cover from this side to replace their clutch or install the kickstarter...If I took this cover off, would I be able to make a proper repair on this hole and bolt from the inside?

Why does crap like this always happen two days before going on holidays? :mad:
 

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Sorry, I don't have any experience in this, but it will be interesting to see if you are able to find out the answer.
 

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Just from the looks of the diagram, I would guess that it is shouldered to seal against the o-ring. If there was no o-ring and shoulder, oil may seep through the threads and out the hole. I would check the tip of the threads on the bolt to make sure it isn't messed up and causing your problem. All it takes is a little damage where the threads start. I've seen this happen by putting too much pressure getting a bolt started and narrowing the gap at the start of the threads. Hope what I'm saying makes sense, it is sometimes hard for me to type out my thoughts.
 

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Results from a couple of weeks ago....Oil Change and Chain Adjustment at 288 miles....

As many of you know, I purchased the 2014 tw200 in late March with 1 mile on it...cold Spring and too many College and Baseball games to umpire, and I was not getting out much....I finally decided that the 2" play in the chain was more than I liked, so I tightened it up just a notch, which brought it back to about 1.3 inches[a bit on the tight side, but IMO better than being to lucy goosie....} I also decided to change the oil and the filter{?}....no problems, although the Oil Nut was pretty tight...got that off drained the black gunk{only 288 miles, almost all street and less than 50mph 80% of the time}...the filter was fine, cleaned, but did not replace, that and everything else}...all in all, except the dark oil which was sludgy, things looked great....even a non mechanical person like me, should have no problems doing this on their own.

Oil Change 001.JPG
 

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You should have done the first change at 28 miles, not 288. Do another at 600, then at 1,200 before going to the recommended interval of 2,000 or six months, whichever is sooner. (This is careful owner intervals, not the manual, which is WAY too long for 95% of users.) The little beast makes a lot of metal in its formative years.

The filter can be cleaned and re-used indefinitely until it gets damaged, or clogged with anything that cannot be removed by simple cleaning with solvent
 

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Plan on doing one at 500 miles, will likely make sure the chain is within the 1.3-1.75 range at that time...people tend to get worked up over what the Book says....my belief is do what YOU think is necessary, but do it at regular intervals. As for the Metal Shavings/Bits....I found almost none on the first change, will be interesting to see what shakes out on the next...
 

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I have suspected that the factory torque setting on the drain cap is too high. The one on my AG200 is cracked and I use the correct setting with a good torque wrench. 43Nm just seems too high to me.
I agree, I tighten mine to 33n-m. No science behind that decision, that's just when it feels tight to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have suspected that the factory torque setting on the drain cap is too high. The one on my AG200 is cracked and I use the correct setting with a good torque wrench. 43Nm just seems too high to me.

As for the plastic chunks in your oil...I wonder if your timing chain tensioners have gone brittle and are coming apart?

You raise some good points about the bolt and the oil gallery, I had a look at an AG case I have apart here and the gallery just stops at the bolt thread like it shows in your diagram. Maybe Yamaha had other plans for this gallery & bolt? As for the bolt hole, it goes right through to the clutch housing, as shown below. My guess is the o-ring is there to stop oil creeping through the threads, up the bolt and past the head of the bolt, nothing more. The shoulder is to create an interference fit to the o-ring. (as stated by Leben)



This is with the filter cover on and the bolt installed.


Excellent...this is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!

Looks like I'll be pulling the cover off soon and installing a Sert...:(
 

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I sort of have a bit of an issue with the oil flow arrows on this diagram around the filter housing as well. When I remove the filter all the captured rubbish is on the outside of the filter, so this would suggest the oil flow goes from the outside to the inside of the filter. Shouldnt the arrows be in the opposite direction in the filter housing? What am I missing?
Here is a diagram someone else posted that shows how it works more clearly.

 
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